Planet Ice Part 3: Kilimanjaro's Vanishing Summit Glacier

GreatOutdoors.com has posted an update to their Planet Ice Project page, this time with a look at the vanishing ice on Kilimanjaro.

You may recall that the Planet Ice Project is the brain child of writer and photographer James Martin, who is traveling to various places around the globe over the next two years, to check the health of glaciers and polar ice caps. He hopes to write a book and photo essay on the impact of global warming on some of these iconic ice fields.

In the case of Kili, there are some estimates that the famed "Snows of Kilimanjaro" may completely be gone by 2015. While I was there, some of the long time guides talked about how far the glacier use to reach down the mountain, and while it still appears to have a heavy snow cap, it is retreating at an alarming rate. If you want to see snow on the top of Kilimanjaro, you may want to schedule that visit sooner than later.

First Everest Summit of the Season!

MountEverest.net is reporting that Maxut Zhumayev & Vassily Pivtsov have topped out on Everest! This is the first summit of the season on Everest, and it was accomplished with out supplemental oxygen or Sherpa support as well. The pair left their high camp, at 7900m last night around 10 PM and radioed back to ABC at about 6 PM Chinese time from the summit.

The pair first attempted to reach the summit last week, but were turned back due to poor weather conditions. They returned to ABC on Friday, but launched another bid on Saturday. The two Kazakhs climb in alpine style, carrying all their necessary gear with them, and not using established camps. The report is that they reached the top just as HiMex's Sherpa team were laying down the last of the fixed ropes to the summit.

Currently they are descending the mountain on those ropes and will camp tonight above 8000m. Weather conditions are said to be good, with no high winds. Congratulations guys! What an amazing climb! I can't wait to hear more about it.

In other Summit news, word has come in that Denis Urubko is making a speed summit push tonight on Dhaulagiri as well. Denis is hoping to set a new summit speed record by beating the old time of 17 hours 15 minutes set back in 1995. Good luck Denis. We'll want to hear about your climb as well!

Update: Alan Arnette is now reporting that 5 Sherpas from the HiMex team actually summitted about a half-hour ahead of Maxut and Vassily. The Sherpa team was up near the summit setting fixed ropes and upon completion of that task, felt like continuing higher. This means that all the fixed ropes are now in place on the North side, and the way is clear, weather permitting, for teams to start to make their push. Alan notes that this is the exact same date that the Sherpas finished the task last year as well. Rumor has it the Olympic Torch practice run may go for the summit before weeks end.

Lara Kellogg Dies on Mt. Wake

Famed climber Lara Kellogg fell to her death in a climbing accident last week on Mt. Wake, in Denali National Park, Alaska. According to this article posted on MountainZone.com, Kellogg was climbing with mountaineer Jed Brown at the time of the accident.

Lara was married to Chad Kellogg, who was climbing in the Sichuan province of China at the time of the accident. Out of respect to her husband and family, her name was not released until Chad could be contacted and told the news. Lara and Chad are well known in climbing circles having worked as guides and having climbed all over the World.

Jed Brown posted his thoughts on Lara and their climb with a bit of an explanation about what events lead up to them being on the mountain and wht happened while they were there. And a Remembering Lara Kellog Blog has been created to allow friends and family to post their memories and thoughts on Lara.

My thoughts and condolences are with Chad and her family at this time.

Rest of Everest: Tibet 2007 Teaser Video

In a clear sign that I'm still not back to my regular schedule, I completely missed this a few days ago. The Tibet 2007 Teaser Video is now available over at The Rest of Everest.

Fans of the video podcast know that Jon, the Director/Photographer/Producer/Jack-of-All-Trades of The Rest of Everest, returned to Nepal and Tibet to meet with some new teams and visit Everest Base Camp on the North side. The trip will provide future episodes of the show with new content and a fresh look at life on Everest and in Tibet as well. Judging from this great teaser, which runs more than 33 minutes in length, we're in for some excellent future episodes. Even better, if you've donated to the show you get an amazing HD version of the teaser that will really have your mouth watering. I need to go buy an AppleTV so I can watch it again on my HDTV.

By the way, if you missed all the great podcasts, dispatches, and updates from Jon while he was in Tibet, you can get caught up on the Tibet 2007 page. I'm looking forward to seeing the 2007 episodes eventually as well, but first we'll get a return to the current Rest of Everest podcasts.

Everest Update: Khumbu Icefall Closed!

MountEverest.net has posted another Everest Update this time with more news on the death of that Sherpa yesterday, and an word that the Khumbu Icefall is closed at the moment.

Forty year old Dawa Sherpa was working yesterday between C2 and C3 when he fell to his death. Dawa apparently slipped and fell into the Kharpas crevasse while climbing towards C3. My guess is that he was taking supplies to the camp for the ten member international team that he was working for. The Sherpas know the risks they are taking when they work on the mountain, but they are the strongest, most amazing climbers in the World. It is alway a shame when something like this happens, and we wish his family and friends all the best in this trying time.

In other news, an avalanche has closed the route across the Khumbu Icefall this morning, forcing some teams to stay in BC until it can be cleared. The route was expected to be inspected and repaired today allowing teams to move on tomorrow, however there is some word of dissention amongst the teams that the route through the Icefall, the most dangerous place on Everest, is not being maintained well this season. Each team pays part of the fee to build the route of ladders through the Icefall, and apparently some of those teams are demanding more Icefall Doctors be brought in to shape things up. I've also heard that the Icefall is quite active this season, which can't be making conditions any better.

On the North side, word is Maxut and Vassily, the two men making their summit bid a few days ago have been forced to retreat to ABC due to bad weather. They'll wait for another weather window before making another push. Gavin Bate's Team on Cho Oyu reports being woken by the Chinese Military who were searching for climbers who are reportedly heading to Everest without the proper climbing permits. These "undocumented" climbers are not allowed on the mountain, and the Chinese will likely try to find them and stop them from heading to Everest. Either that, or they'll shake them down for the cash for those permits. Finally, those American activists that showed up in BC to protest for a Free Tibet a few days ago have been expelled by the Chinese Government. Big surprise.

North! To Alaska!

Is there any State in the Union that elicits a sense of adventure like Alaska? Not only is it the largest state (Sorry Texas!), but it's easily the most remote, mountainous, and wild. In celebration of the 49th State, National Geographic Adventure is presenting Ten Trips into the Alaskan Frontier.

The unique element of this article is that it offers both a modern and classic adventure in a similar vein. For instance, in their section on the Alaskan Range they recommend a classic trek, hiking Denali's Empty Quarter, and a more modern one, Scouting the Iditarod trail.

Should you choose to hike Denali, you'll need a permit for the backcountry, which you can only get a day in advance and without reservations. The article also warns that sections of the trail may be closed due to bear sightings (!) or river floodings. If that sounds a little too rough, then perhaps the Iditarod trail is more your style. You'll hike through Rainy Pass, one of the more prominant sections of the Iditarod sled dog race. Going in the Summer means scenic views, blooming wild flowers, and running streams that are frozen solid when the mushers roll through.

The article has other suggested adventures as well, with both modern and classic options for The Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, Glacier Bay National Park, Tongass National Forest, and Yukon Charley River and Kondike Preserve A little something for everyone!

Oh, and I found this particular bit of advice quite useful: "Old-timer's guide to bear identification: If it climbs the tree to kill you, it's a black bear. If it knocks the tree over first, then kills you, it's a griz."

Gear Junkie's Best Gear! Ever!

The Gear Junkie wraps up his week long look at the Ten Best Gear Items of the Past Five Years today by revealing the top two spots on the list.

His number 2 gear item is the Woolies Zip T-Neck from Ibex, which is a great base layer that is both thin, and warm at the same time. The wool top breaths well, isn't restrictive and gets high marks for use on the trail hiking, mountain biking, or running.

And the number 1 gear item of the past five years is... *drum roll*... The Original Buff from, well... Buff of course! Buffs are headwear that are about as versatile a gear item as you'll find. They can be used to cover your head, of course, but can also be a light balaclava, pulled down around your neck as a scarf, or pulled up to cover your face like a mask. The item has been made famous on CBS's Survivor where each team has custom Buffs, and I speaking from experience, they are great to own. I have two of them and use them constantly. They even went with me to Africa recently. And at $18.50 each, you'll be hard pressed to find a cheaper gear bargain.

Thanks for the list GJ and congratulations on your first five years. Now get to work on that "Top Ten Worst Gear Items" list. :)

Dodo Completes The Double-Double, Climbing Partner Missing!

I first reported on Dodo Kopold's Double-Double a while back when it was still just a plan, but word has come in that he has completed his quest to summit both Cho Oyu and Shisha Pangma in the Spring Season.

However, there is grim news to go along with Dodo's triumph. MountEverest.net is reporting that Dodo's climbing partner, Marek Hudák, is missing, and has been missing since Tuesday. Dodo and Marek were climbing on Shisha Pangma, making their summit bid, when the parted ways. Dodo continued to the top, but Marek retreated down the mountain. When Dodo returned to C2 he found that the camp had been buried in ice and that his friend was missing. The only signs of Marek were an ice axe and a glove. He hasn't been seen since the two separated on four days ago.

Dodo and the Korean team on the South face of Shisha have searched for the missing climber, but so far to no avail. The loss of his friend has put a dark veil over Dodo's accomplishments, as he has claimed the first two 8000m summits of the year. He's not stopping there either, as he plans to travel to Pakistan to summit Nanga Parbat and K2 this Summer. We'll have to wait to see if those plans change following this tragedy.

My thoughts and prayers go out to Marek's friends and family at this time.

Gear Junkie's Greatest Gear: #4 and #3!

Ok, now this list is getting very intresting. We're talking some super cool stuff here, and I'm not just saying that because one of the times is a pack! I love packs! ;)

If you're joining us late, in celebration of is fifth year as a gear reviewer, The Gear Junkie, aka Stephen Regenold is counting down his Top Ten Gear of the Past Five Years! Today were down to numbers 4 and 3.

Holding down the number 4 spot is the Virga Pack from Granite Gear. This pack basically consists of one large compartment and some padded straps to throw it on your back with. As the Gear Junkie notes ,there is no frame at all, and you create a rigid pack by placing a sleeping pad inside of it and letting it uncoil against the sides of the bag. Stuff the rest of your gear in, and off you go. The whole pack weighs a mear 1 pound 3 ounces while still providing 3200 cubic inches of space. All for about $110. *drool*

The "bronze metal" of this list, making the podium at number 3, is the Kona Jake The Snake. This bike is designed for both on and off road adventures and is built for speed in all kinds of conditions. It's light, fast, and doesn't have a suspension, but will handle just about anything you throw at it. That thing looks like a blast to ride and it's relatively affordable at $1350.

Tomorrow will bring us the top two spots on the list. Can't wait to see what they are.

Summits on Dhaulagiri!!

Yesterday it was reported that several climbers were making a speed attempt on the summit of Dhaulagiri, and the word today is that they were successful. MountEverest.net is reporting that Iñaki Ochoa and Jorge Egocheaga have topped out on the mountain.

Ochoa arrived at the summit at approximately 3 PM yesterday with his partner Egocheaga about 30 mintues behind. The Spaniards arrived at the top just 24 hours after leaving BC, an impressively fast climb to say the least. For Ochoa, this is his 12th 8000m peak, leaving him with just Kangchenjunga and Annapurna to go on completing the list. Congratulations and great work guys!

In other Himalaya news, the Spanish team on Annapurna has retreated to base camp following a fresh round of snow. Some of the team members are feeling under the weather, and it doesn't look like a summit window will open in the next few days. On Shisha Pangma, Andrew Lock is reporting that the summit push is on now that a the weather has cleard up some. And finally, on Cho Oyu, the Italians are setting off for C2 today with the hopes of improving their acclimatization efforts. The report is that the mornings are clear and beautiful, but the afternoons have continued to bring snow.

Video: Speed Flying Descent on The Eiger!

National Geographic Adventure has posted a hot video of a "speed descent" on The Eiger, that has to be seen to be believed. Very cool stuff.

What's a Speed Descent you ask? Good question. How about skiing off the summit with a parachute strapped to your back allowing you to float over large sections of the mountain. Judging from the video, this looks like a great deal of fun, and you have to give the guys points for orginality. While everyone else is finding new ways to get up The Eiger (and every other mountain) these guys are finding new ways to get down it.

Trust me, the video is worth your time! Thanks for sharing this Ryan!

Everest Claims First Life of the Season

The sad news is filtering out to the Internet that the first death of the Spring climbing season has occurred on Everest. The Adventurist is reporting that the climber was a Sherpa climbing on the South Col route. Details are still a bit sketchy, but it seems as though he was either caught in an avalanche, or crushed by falling ice. Read more of the coverage, including updates, here.

Alan Arnette has also posted on the tragedy on his Everest 2007 page. Alan has heard from Paul Adler's Team that the death occurred on the Lhotse Face. The Sherpa was working with the Thamserku team, a local company based right in Kathmandu. Alan remarks on how the Sherpas are like family for the guides who often employ the same men every year, and build long standing relationships with them.

My condlences to the climbers and families. I'll post more as it becomes known.

Kilimanjaro Climb: Machame Route - Day 3

Shira Camp (3840m) to Barranco Camp (3950m)

Day 3 on Kilimanjaro is all about acclimatization. You'll get a full taste of the old adage "climb high, sleep low" as you first gain 690 meters, and then descend 580 meters at the end of the day.

Much of Day 3 is spent in the alpine desert of Kilimanjaro. You'll leave the colorful bushes, scrub grasses, and interesting plant life behind, at least for the time being, for the rocky, barren, and dry expanses of the high desert areas. You'll continue to have amazing views throughout the day as well, and the summit will loom over you as you hike, as long as the mists clear long enough for you to see it.

You'll reach the high point of the climb around mid-day, as you approach the Lava Tower, a 300 foot tall formation jutting out of the mountain that ws created by cooling lava at some point in Kili's past. The morning is a steady climb up to this point, and you'll likely have lunch in the shadow of the Tower. After that, you'll turn down hill to make your way towards Barranco Camp. But make no mistake, just because you're going down doesn't mean that the trek is easy. On the contrary, you'll be scrambling over rocks and hiking through loose rock scree that will have you watching your step at every moment. On top of that, you're likely to have tired legs from the previous days climb and the exertion of the morning, making the descent more challenging than you'd like.

There is a reward for the day however, and that's the beautiful scenery as you descend. The alpine desert will once again fall away, and you'll return to the colorful moorlands. More beautiful plants will spring up around you, and as you hike down the valley to Barranco Camp, there are a number of beautiful waterfalls. Definitely take time to look around on this stage of the climb.

Barranco Camp is easily the most scenic on the Machame Route. You'll have some amazing views of Mount Meru, Heim Glacier, and Kibo's south face. When the mist clears at night, you'll also be able to see all the way down theh valley into Moshi Town. Of course, it's not all fun and games, as you won't be able to avoid eyeing up the Barranco Wall, a 1000+ foot rock face you'll be tackling first thing in the morning.

For me, this was a good day on the trail. The morning hike up was definitely challenging and I was ready for a break when we stopped for lunch at the lava tower. The descent was certainly more challenging than I expected, and you had to watch your footing constantly, as the scree was very loose in spots and if you weren't careful, you could easily twist an ankle, or trip and fall. But the views in Shira Garden, as the valley leading to Barranco Camp is known, are quite stunning. Certainly some of the best you'll see on the whole trek.

The night before this stage I probably slept a total of 20-30 minutes. Very light dozing at best, but I still felt good on the trail. My legs were feeling a bit of the strain, but generally still felt good. I remained hopeful that a good night's sleep was just around the corner, and that the acclimatization process was going according to plan. I hadn't suffered any head-aches or nausea, although other groups we encountered certainly were. I remained optimistic.

(Photo courtesy of Colm Donohoe. It's a shot of myself, and our guides, Peter and Zawadi, at the Lava Tower.

Who is Responsible for Climbers on Everest?

As the Spring Climbing Season heats up and we get closer to the inevitable summit attempts on Everest, the community will begin to debate the ethics of climbing on the World's highest peak and who is ultimately responsible for those climbing the mountain.

It is with that question in mind that The Adventurist presents this editorial entitled Responsiblity and Death on Everest. The article, in no uncerain terms, places the responsiblity clearly on the shoulders of the Expedition Leader for insuring the safety of their clients. The argument is that they know the climbers better than anyone, and it is their job to monitor their progress and the conditions on the mountain, and make the judgement call on who is fit to go up or down.

While I won't disagree with this assessment, it's not always that easy. For instance, the article mentions the David Sharp incident from last year, but in Sharp's case, he was climbing independently. He had no guide or Expedition Leader to tell him to turn around and go down. He also was quite an experienced climber with experience on Everest before.

Obviously the guides do have a responsibility to their clients to see themoff the mountain safely, but the climate on Everest is one that has become about money, and it means more casth for their company if they have successful summits. The clients paying those large sums of money are also hell bent on getting to the top. They spent their cash and they expect to get their chance at the summit, with nothing getting in their way. You can point to the Sharp incident once again, when nearly 40 people stepped over and around him on the way to the summit that morning. Sharp was still alive when this happened.

In my mind, the best thing to do is to start limiting the number of permits to climb Everest. However, considering how much money is involved for both Nepal and China, I wouldn't expect that to happen any time soon. The overcrowding is going to get worse, and in the process the risks are only going to increase as well. If something isn't done about the situation, it's likely that we'll soon see a season that will make 1996 look tame.

Gear Junkie's Best Gear: #6 and #5

The contdown continues over at GearJunkie.com where in celebration of five years of gear reveiws, Stephen is handing out his list of the best gear from the last five years.

Coming in at #6 on the list is Hydropel from Genesis Pharmaceuticals. Hydropel is a slick gel that you apply to your feet before a long hike to help prevent blisters. It repels water and will last the whole day no matter what you're activity. Gear Junkie says he uses it hiking, backpacking, climb, adventure racing, and even in marathons Sounds like it must be pretty good stuff, and a bargain at 13 bucks a tube.

Weatherpants from Rail Riders hold down the number five spot. These quick drying, and tough, outdoor pants are light weight, comfortable, and can still take a beating. Perfect for any type of outdoor activity and a good edition to anyones gear closet. I actually own a pair of these, and I can vouch for their reliablity.

Two more great gar items tomorrow!

Summit Pushes Begin on Everest and Dhaulagiri

In a couple of suprise moves today, MountEverest.net is reporting that summit bids have been launched on both Everest and Dhaulagiri and in grand fasion.

First up, on Dhaulagiri a group of climbers have set out from Base Camp today to go straight for the summit, fast and light. Just five days ago, this same group, made up of Horia Colibasanu, Iñaki Ochoa, Jorge Egocheaga and Joby Ogwyn, was turned back on that same mountain. Currently there is calm weather on the seventh highest peak in the World, and the team doesn't want to let that go to waste. They haven't specifically said that they are on a speed push, but their actions say otherwise. If everything holds true, they could summit as early as tomorrow.

In other news, over on Everest, two Kazak climbers have set off from ABC for their summit bid on the North Col route. The two are also making a speed run, with out supplemental oxygen, pre-established high camps, or fixed ropes on the upper sections. If the pair make it to the top, it'll certainly be an impressive feat, not to mention the first summit of the year.

In other Everest news, four American demonstrators were arrested today at Base Camp. The group held signs saying "One World, One Dream, Free Tibet 2008" and wore t-shirts that said "No Torch through Tibet" in obvious reference to the Chinese bringing the Olypic Torch to the summit of Everest via the North Side.

The other Big Story (I say a bit tongue in cheek) is the lack of Yaks on Everest this year. This isn't the first time I've heard complaints of a Yak Shortage, but now even Nives Meroi is having problems finding the pack beasts to help her bring gear up to BC. Fear not though. The Yaks aren't being mutilated by aliens or anything, they've simply been reserved by the large Chinese contigent and two other big commercial climbing teams. Hopefully there will be a boom in Yak births this year, as I'm sure next year's Chinese team will be even larger.

Himalayan Climbing Update

Another climbing update from MountEverest.net today brings us news on the Spring Climbing Season in the Himalaya. Things are really picking up with all kinds of news starting to roll in.

Swiss Climber Ueli Steck has big plans for Annapurna, where he intends to climb the mountain by a new route, solo and in alpine style no less. Ueli, who recently set a speed record on the Eiger is warming up for Annapuran with summits on Cholatse and Pumori while he treks up the Khumbu Valley.

Over on Shisha Pangma, the Slovak Team are at 7000m and about to make their summit push, with weather conditions being less than ideal. On Dhaulagiri, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner is celebrating a unique honeymoon. While she waits for her chance to go up the mountain, her husband is guiding another team on Manaslu. (Dude! You've got a keeper!)

On Cho Oyu the news isn't so good when it comes to summit attempts. Gavin Bate is reporting that his team is turning back, giving up on their attempts to top out. At 6800m, not far below Camp 2, they were turned back by an ice cliff that is making it all but impassable. Their climb, it appears, is over.

Alan Arnette brings us some news from Everest as well, where the word is that the HiMex sherpas will once again be the first on the summit, and by the end of April no less. Of course, these amazing climbers are laying down the fixed ropes that will allow the other teams to follow them up the mountain. Rumor has it that the Chinese team carrying the Olympic Torch may not be far behind though. Word from the South Side is that fixed ropes now reach up to Camp 3 and a number of teams are rerturning to Base Camp as part of their acclimatization process.

Kilimanjaro Climb: Machame Route - Day 2

Machame Camp (3000m) to Shira Camp (3840m)

On Day 2 of the Kili climb you leave the heat and humidity of the cloud forest behind and move into the moorlands of Kilimanjaro. The trees fall away behind you today and are replaced with a number of interesting and unique plants, many with beautiful flowers. During Day 1, there were times when the forest was a bit opressive with it's humidity, but on Day 2 things are much better. The wide open spaces allow for cool breezes to help make the climb more comfortable although when the sun is out, it can still be quite intense.

The views are far more interesting on Day 2 as well. While we hiked through the forest, we didn't see anything aside from thick, dense jungle, and aside from insects, there was no animal life. But on Day 2 you can get some great views, both down the mountain to the forest and plains below and up towards Kibo and Mawenzi peaks above. On top of that, you'll actually see some birds on the mountain, including HUGE black crows, and tiny chipmunk like rodents.

This is the shortest day of climbing on the Machame Route. Your hike on Day 2 will last about four hours as you climb to the Shira Plateau. However, there are several long, vertical climbs that will result in an elevation gain of 840 meters by the time you reach camp. You'll also have to do a bit of non-technical rock climbing/scrambling near the end of the day, which wasn't all that difficult, but could be a bit intimidating if you aren't use to that kind of activity. At one point, while scrambling up the rocks, there was a 200+ foot drop into the mist just off to the side. If being close to an edge like that gives you vertigo, you may not want to look down here. ;)

After the rock climbing, the trail will continue downward for a bit until you reach Shira Camp, which rests on the rocky plateau covered in volcanic rock left over from the last time Kili blew it's top. By the time you reach this point, you'll begin to feel the drop in temperatures associated with climbing higher. A slight mist in the air will bring a bit of a chill as well.

For me, Day 2 was a nice, brisk hike. There were sections that were certainly challenging, but nothing too difficult, and I actually enjoyed the sections of rock climbing/scrambling. The path has gone from the well groomed, clearly defined trail from Day 1, to someting more like I expected. It's still easily followed, but clearly this section isn't as well maintained, and it's more challenging to hike. You'll have to watch your footing a bit more as well, and your trekking poles become much more useful. I also appreciated the change in temperature as well. While in the cloud forest, I was sweating up a storm, but the wide open spaces of the moorlands helped a lot. The lovely scenery and change of flora were fun to watch as well.

At this point in my climb, I had about two hours of sleep on the mountain. Leading up to the climb I had traveled 28 hours from the States, and head about five hours of sleep the night before we started, and while camped at Machame Camp, I did manage to get a little shut-eye. I was hoping that by the time I got to Shira Camp, I would be tired enough to actually get some sleep, but while I was physically tired, sleep would not come.

Gear Junkie's Best Gear: #7 and #8

As I mentioned yesterday, The Gear Junkie is celebrating this five years of writing gear columns by naming his Top Ten Gear Items from the past five years. Yesterday he selected waterproof bags and kick-ass all-terrain trail shoes for number ten and nine respectively. Today we have a couple more cool items.

Coming in at number 8 we have Travelsafe 100 from Pacsafe. This item is a lockable nylon bag that is perfect for paranoid travelers who don't want to leave any of their valuables behind. The bag is reinforced with a steel cable netting, and will keep your passport, cell phone, money, and other small items safe from unwanted attention while you travel abroad.

Number 7 on the list of best gear is another pair of shoes. This time it's the Susitna XCR from Montrail, which are trail running shoes that come insulated with Gore-tex and a set of small rubber gaiters. The shoes are water proof and durable. The Gear Junkie even remarks that he climbed Mount Rainier in a pair.

As someone who is a bit of a "gear junkie" himself, I can't wait to see the rest of the list. However, am I the only one who wouldn't mind seeing a list of the Ten Worst Gear items that the Gear Junkie has had to endure over the past five years? That would be an interesting list!

Sir. Edmund Hospitalized Following Fall in Nepal

MountEverest.net has posted a report that Sir Edmund Hillary has been hospitalized in New Zealand after falling in a recent visit to Nepal.

The 87 year old climbing legend, the first man to summit Everest (along with Sherpa Tenzing Norgay) if you're tuning in for the first time, was meeting with the SuperSherpas and Miss Elizabeth Hawley while he was in Nepal last weekend. There have been a number of reports that this will be Hillary's last visit to the country, and although he has stopped climbing years ago, his humanitarian efforts, building schools and hospitals, have brought him back on a yearly basis.

Lets all send Sir Edmund our best wishes and hopes for a speedy recovery.

Outdoor Weblog Interviews The Crazy Kayaker!

I first blogged about The Crazy Kayker last week when he announced his plan to kayak the length of the Mississippi this Summer. Well, our friends over at The Oudoor Weblog have gone a step further by posting aninterview with him.

In the first installment of a new section entitled "The Outdoor Enthusiast Next Door" they put the questions to Jacob van der Merwe, a.k.a. The Crazy Kayaker. This is part one of the interview, and Jason answers questions about how he got his nickname, why he loves kayaking, and why he wants to kayak the length of the Mississippi River. His answers are interesting and insightful and give us a nice glimpse at his personality.

It should be fun to follow his progress this Summer, and if I still lived along the Mississippi River, maybe I'd head out to join him for a day on the water.

Update: Part 2 of the interview has now been posted as well.

The Thru-Hiker's Medical Guide

Stewart Anderson is a doctor, who also just so happens to have have hiked the length of thePacific Crest Trail. Along the way, he began to think about all the injuries that can occur on such a hike and came up with the idea of creating the The Thru-Hiker's Medical Guide.

This helpful site has all kinds of great stuff to think about before you set out this Summer on the PCT or the AT. He covers things as simple as blisters on your feet (all too common on these hikes) to fractured bones, tendentious, and the dreaded "Hiker's Belly". This is definitely a good read for anyone planning a multi-day hike. There are some good tips and information that may make your trip a lot better.

Thanks to this one goes out to The Goat.

Landis Still A Cheater?!?!

According to this report over at Yahoo Sports Floyd Landis' "B" sample turned up traces of synthetic testosterone when follow-up tests were conducted on seven urine samples submitted by the Tour de France Champion. The article quotes from the French newspaper L'Equipe, where the report orginated.

Landis, who has continually maintained his innocence, claim that the tests should not have been conducted at all since his primary, or "A", sample tested negative for any banned substances. To further complicate matters, Landis' own "expert" was suppose to be allowed to witness the latest round of testing, but was barred from the room while the tests were conducted, despite an agreement that would have had him observe the testing process.

This latest twist in the story comes after a report a few months back that Landis' samples may have been mislabled, and someone else's samples were the ones actually being tested. Over the past ten months, there certainly has been a lot of back and fourths to this story. At this point, it's difficult to figure out who to believe. Clearly the French labs have issues with their testing process, that much is evident from other cases as well. But these samples testing positive doesn't bode well for Landis either. So, at this point, we either have a plot by the French to discredit another American cyclist, or Landis is guilty of using performance enhancing drugs. I'm not sure I'd rule out either option at the moment.

Thanks GoBlog!

Gear Junkie Counts Down Best Gear of the Past Five Years

Most outdoor enthusiasts know who The Gear Junkie is, even if they don't know his real name is Stephen Regenold. His columns are syndicated in a number of newspapers and magazines across the country and he has written a number of adventure travel articles for a wide array of publications. As it turns out, the first Gear Junkie article went into the Minneapolis Star Tribune five years ago this month, and to celebrate, Stephen is counting down his favorite gear from the past five years.

Each day this week we'll get two very cool gear items that impressed the Gear Junkie. Today we have, coming in at number 10, ALOKSAK bags from Watchful Eye Designs. In a nutshell, these are water proof, highly durable, ziplock bags for all of our gear that shouldn't get wet. They're great for holding maps during adventure races or for keeping you essential items dry during your next paddling excursion.

Also on the list today, at the number 9 spot, DMG BUGrip EXTREME from Icebug. The Gear Junkie sums this item quite well when he describes it as "a winter boot with a running shoe, add carbide spikes on the sole for traction". It's a trail running shoe for extreme snow and ice conditions, with built in gaiters no less.

It should be fun this week to watch the list unfold. I can't wait to see what cool gear, that I probably can't afford, occupy the higher positions on the list. :)

Arctic Update: Teams Reach The Pole!

I haven't posted one of these in awhile, but ThePoles.com has an arctic update for us today with all kinds of news about teams reaching the North Pole.

First we have word that Jennifer Murray and Colin Bodill of the Polar First Team reached the North Pole on Friday evening. The two helicopter pilots are attempting to set a World's Record by flying around the globe via the North and South Poles.

Those taking a more traditional route to the Pole include Adrian Hayes who at last report was at 89.27.9 degrees N, 63 W, which means he should arrive very shortly. Rosie Sancer has had a supply drop, and she continues on her solo expedition to the northern most point on Earth, while Alain and Dixie are making slow, but sure progress as well, despite some nasty weather. You'll recall that they're the team who are traveling from Sibera to Greenland by skis, via the North Pole.

Meanwhile, famed polar explorer Borge Ousland and his Last Degree Team lived up to their name, reacing the Pole yesterday. Congratulations guys! Nice work!

Himalaya Update: No Summit On Dhaulagiri!

Despite predicting summit bids on Dhaulagiri last week, MountEverest.net now brings us news that the Spaniards were turned back in their summit bid by a nasty storm above 7000m. The team climbed from BC to C2 on Saturday with the intention of resting before going for the summit yesterday morning. But the mounain had other ideas, as high winds and a nasty storm kept them up all night, and prevented them from pressing on in the morning. Team leader Iñaki Ochoa says that they climbed an additional 300m before throwing in the towel and retreating back to base camp.

At this point, all the teams on Dhaulagiri are in BC and waiting out the storm. It will likely be several days before it passes, and teams can climb back up to Camp 2 to inspect for damage, so we'll just have to wait to see when a weather window will open for the summit once more.

Meanwhile, the the news from Everest is that the North Side is so crowded that teams have to fence off the area they've claimed as their spot to set up camp. There are even reports of armed guards patrolling the Chinese camp, which is said to dominate the area.

On the South Side, snow delayed a lot of departures from base camp as it made the already treacherous Khumbu Ice Falls even more dangerous. The Ice Fall has been particularly active this year with the ice still moving and forcing new paths to be made on a regular basis. For those that don't know, the Khumbu Ice Falls are the most dangerous area of the mountain, and they reguire the Sherpas to lay down a series of ladders that climbers use as bridges to cross the gaps between the slabs of ice. Falling into on of these gaps means falling into a crevasse that you may never get out of.

Kilimanjaro Climb: Machame Route - Day 1

Machame Gate (1,800m) to Machame Camp (3,000m)

The first day of the climb on Kilimanjaro via the Machame route begins at the Machme Gate at about 1800m. The area just inside the gate is a staging area for everyone preparing for the climb. You'll see backpacks, boxes, and duffel bags for each group all over the parking lot. All climbers have to check in at the ranger station by signing in with their name, age, country, passport number, etc. After signing in, each guide checks their climbing permit, and you're off, at long last.

Throughout Day 1 you hike along a well developed and easy to follow trail surrounded by Kili's cloud forest. The path starts out as a gentle slope and it's easy to make good time, even though the guides will implore you to go "Pole! Pole!" (Slowly! Slowly!) even at this relatively low altitude. Reaching the summit is a marathon, not a sprint, and it's a good idea to pace yourself each day.

After about two hours of hiking, the trail changes from a gentle slope to a number of long, and steep, inclines. You'll find that the leisurely walk you started out on has now become a challenging cardio workout. The first day's hike takes about five to six hours in total, and by the time you reach Machame Camp, the cloud forest begins to give way to grasslands and wildflowers. You'll camp that night on the edge of the moorlands.

My experience with Day 1 is that it was far more vertical than I had expected. You do gain 1200 meters of altitude throughout the day, which is nothing to sneeze at to be sure. Still, I expected the gain to be a little more gradual, with more switchbacks, but honestly the trail is, for the most part, straight and true. And up!! While I was expecting a challenge, I have to admit, Day 1 was harder than what I thought it would be.

I chose the Machame route for my climb because it's considered one of the more scenic of the routes. Our guides also told us that it is considered one of the more challenging routes as well. By the time we signed in at the ranger station at Machame Camp that afternoon, I had a new respect for the adventure I had undertaken.

(The photo above is me with our assistant guide Peter. Courtesy of my climbing partner Colm Donohoe.)

Safari Pics Online!

For anyone who is intersted, I've posted a web gallery of my safari pictures from my recent adventure abroad. Some of the images are amazing, and I'm very proud of them, and others are good, but not as great as I would like. Still, I thought that I'd share. You can find them by clicking here!

For those waiting for posts on the trip, never fear. I haven't forgotten, I'm just still getting my feet back under me, and working on digging out. With any luck, I'll post my thoughts on the first day of the Kili climb over the weekend, and we'll get started from there. My hope is to offer some personal insight into the climb and the safari as well, and talk about the experience, and some lessons I learned along the way. So, stay tuned, and for now I hope you enjoy the safari pics!

Circumnavigating Vancouver Via Kayak

I've always wanted to take a trip like this one. CanoeKayak.com is reporting that Keirron Tastagh and paddling partner Jeff Norville will attempt to set a record by circumnavigating Vancouver in just 14 days.

The two will travel in a tandem kayak for the duration of the 700 mile journey. The previous record is 28 days, held by Leon Sommé, who completed the trip solo. Keirron and Jeff will meet and train together for the first time, just prior to embarking on their expedition. They hope to work out a good paddling rhythm before hand, and get to know one another, then head to Canada, get their passports stamped, and set off. If all goes according to plan, they'll get underway around mid-May.

The two will be paddling for a cause as well. They're traveling in a pink kayak in support of Breast Cancer Awareness and a mutual friend who contracted the disease. You can find out more about their cause, and donate by clicking here. Good luck!

Outdoor Weblog: It's ALIVE!!

I came across the Outdoor Weblog some months back and added it to my list of regular websites. At the time there were several good articles posted and it seemed to offer an alternative source of news and info on the activities that we all enjoy. However, as time passed, I noticed that it was updated very infrequently, and sometimes weeks would go by with out an update at all. I very nearly dropped it from list of favorites altogether, as in activity is a quick way off my browser.

Fortunately, the site has a new editor in the form of Terah Shelton who brings an impressive resume to the job. Terah is a freelance travel writer who has traveled extensively, a self confessed "outdoor enthusiast", and a professor who teaches a class on how to travel on a budget.

She can now add "highly paid blogger" to her resume as well. She's only been on the job a few days, but already it's clear that she intends to make some changes around the site. For one thing, there are now daily updates with some good articles, such as this one about a woman solo hiking the Appalachian Trail. It's good to see the Outdoor Weblog alive and well and offering fresh content again. Welcome aboard Terah!

Get Your Daily Everest Fix!

We're well into the Spring climbing season, and teams are crawling all over Everest and the other major Himalayan peaks, so natuarlly there is a contants stream of dispatches, updates and news flowing from the teams that are in BC. Sometimes there is actually too much to try to follow. Fortunately, there are some great websites out there to help us sort through all the news and offer some commentary on what is happening on the mountain.

First, I'd like to recommend Alan Arnette's Everest 2007 Season Coverage page. Alan is tracking every team on the mountain, and has a handy chart at the top of his page that allows you to tell at glance just where each team is. The team names are also links to their respecive websites where you'll find even more information. Scrolling further down the page, you'll find daily commentary from Alan himself on the latest news and events from Everest. Alan, who is an experienced mountaineer himself, and has summitted Everest, always has great insights and information to share. And when you're done reading his latest posts, be sure to drop in The Climbing Forum to discuss your thoughts with the motely crew that inhabit that virtual hang-out.

Next up, head over to The Adventurist for more news on Everest teams and events. The site is updated daily with the latest stories from the mountain, including insight from team dispatches, and progress reports from a wide variety of sources. Be sure to leave comments on the stories that you enjoy or have an opinion on as well, as feedback is always appreciated. The blog posts aren't strictly about Everest however, as you'll regularly see items about other peaks around the World as well.

Of course, there are always the old stand bys as well, such as MountEverest.net, which I often cite as a source for my articles. Most everyone already knows about them and visits regularly I'm sure. There is also EverestNews.com but quite frankly, I find the writing rather poor there, and the updates often lack depth or any real information. Still, from time to time, they have some scoops you won't see any where else.

We're still a few weeks away from summit bids, but you know things will be heating up soon. The news will be flying fast and furious before you know it, so be sure to check the above links regularly as you root for your favorite climbers to top out on the big hill.

Summit Bids On Dhaulagiri

MountEverest.net has posted another one of their Himalaya wrap-up articles with the big news beingt that summit bids on Dhaulagiri could come as early as tomorrow, Saturday April 21st. A team of seven climbers, lead by Spaniard Iñaki Ochoa will begin their assault on the summit with the hopes of putting some or all of them on top by Monday. Good luck guys!

In other Himalaya news, the teams on Annapurna have begun the process of fixing ropes between Camp 2 and Camp 3, while teams continue to arrive in ABC over on Shisha Pangma. Cho Oyu offers similar news, with teams arriving in Base Camp on the Chinese side, while Gavin Bate reports that his team hasn't reaced C2 yet, contrary to other reports. They're stalled out at 6800m and watching the weather. Forcast calls for snow over the weekend.

Gear: Soft Shell Basics

With all the options in gear these days, it's easy to see how someone can get confused with the different choices, terminology, and technology that goes into any good outdoor product. TrailSpace.com, which is quickly becoming one of my favorite sites, has posted this great article, entitled Soft Shells 101, to help take the mystery out of buying a soft shell.

They start off by defining what falls into the "soft shell" category, and then proceed to discuss when and how they are used, what options to look for, and how to select the proper soft shell for your own adventures. They even have some good examples of different types of soft shells, and links to reviews on them, just to add a little more information.

Over the years, I've found that the proper gear is important, and the proper clothing is essential. When the weather is nice and you just need something cool and comfortable, you don't really think about your options much. However, when the weather turns bad, you really want to make sure you've invested wisely in your gear. It's good to shop for bargains, but not at the expense of quality. When it comes to staying warm and dry, you definitely don't want to scrimp. Articles like this one help to take some of the guess work out of buying and help us all to make good choices.

Rest of Everest: Tibet 2007

As a big fan of video podcast The Rest of Everest I mentioned several weeks ago, before I left for Africa, that Jon was heading back to Tibet as well. Had I not gone on hiatus for two weeks myself, I would have reported regularly on the Tibet 2007 updates, blog posts, and podcasts.

But, it's better late than not at all, right? To follow all of Jon, and his good friend Scott's, adventures head on over to the Tibet 2007 Webpage to find out what they were doing while they were there. The podcasts, as always, are fun and interesting, and the blog posts are a good read as well. It looks like Jon is going to have plenty of material to keep feeding our Everest addiction for some time to come.

Welcome home Jon. I hope your case of jet lag isn't as bad as mine! ;)

Entering The Trek Zone!

Ok, so the title to this entry makes it sound like I'm going to a Star Trek convention. But what I'm really talkinga bout is this cool website called Trekkingvision which offers some some amazing suggestions for great treks all over the World.

The site already has some great treks listed on six continents and a handy Google map to show where they are located, so you shouldn't have any problems finding something in an area you would like to explore. They also have detailed information about the different hikes which include such classics as The Annapurna Circuit, The Inca Trail, and the Machame Route on Kilimanjaro which I recently trekked.

All in all, there is some great information on the site, which has plans to add an RSS feed and a blog soon as well. We'll definitely have to keep our eyes on this one. Looks great so far!

Thanks Best Hikes Blog!

Backpacker Magazine's Editor's Choice Gear

Backpacker Magazine has a reputation of throughly "field testing" their gear before they make recommendations on it's quality. Any gear that makes their "Gear of the Year" list usally comes highly recommended and ends up being duralbe, functional, and well worth the money.

GoBlog has published the complete list of winners of this years Editor's Choice Awards, and as always, it's a list that will have our hearts beating a little faster and our wallets trembling in fear.

Highlights of this year's list include the Jansport Whittaker LT Pack (Yes, I was drawn to the pack first!), the MSR Reactor camping stove, which has been garnering a lot of attention it seems, and Big Anges Emerald Mountain tent.

So much gear...so little money!

2007 Daypack Reviews

Long time readers of my blog probably have heard me mention my pension for buying new backpacks. I have five that are in semi-regular rotation already, and I've pretty much banned myself from going near the packs in REI when I visit the store these days. However, it came to my attention on Kilimanjaro that I actually really do need another pack! The daypack I was using on that trip was a bit too small for the amount of gear we needed to pack along with us, and I often found myself stuffing my lunch into an already overstuffed pack. The solution seems simple. I need a bigger day pack!

Fortunately for me TrailSpace.com has posted a 2007 Daypack Review page with some thoughs on some of the hot new daypacks hitting the market now. The reviews aren't long by any means, but the give nice, concise, thoughts on each pack and what it's strengths and weaknesses are and the activites that they are best suited for.

I'm already eyeing that Black Diamond Demon pack or perhaps the Osprey Talon 33. Hmm... so many choices!

24 Hours of Triathlon Coming To NBC

Check Point Zero is reporting that Ian Adamson's 24 Hours of Triathlon is coming to NBC this fall as part of their World of Adventure Sports broadcasts. The race is scheduled to be run on September 1st and the show will air on October 27th.

I first reported on the 24 hours of triathlon back when Ian Adamson announced his retirement from full time adventure racing in December. But now the project looks like it's up and running, and already has a media presence with NBC. The race will be run in Cherry Creek State Park in Boulder, Colorado (where else?) and will consist of both team "relay" legs or solo competition. You can read updates in the Offical Blog and if you'd like to register click here.

More on the event as it gets closer.

Book Review: Lois On The Loose

Regular readers know that, from time to time, I'll review a recent book release that may be of interest to them. Most of the books I've reviewed in the past have been about climbing, such as Ed Viestur's No Shortcuts To The Top or Cliff Willis' The Boys of Everest. This book review is about a different type of adventure altogether.

Lois On The Loose by Lois Pryce is, simply put, a fun, funny, travel book that chronicles the author's 20,000 mile journey, by motorcycle, from Anchorage, Alaska to Ushuaia, Argentina. In essence, the length of the Trans-America highway. Along the way, Lois encounters unusual people, unique stretches of road, and a wide variety of police officers stretching from Canada through Central America, and continuing to the very end of the World.

The book opens with Lois returning to her job at the BBC in London, fresh from a motorcycle holiday in Europe. As she returns to the daily grind, she finds she is missing the open road, and the thrill of adventure. Her mind begins to hatch a plan that would see her quitting her job, shipping her motorcycle to Alaska, and setting off on an epic journey throughout the length of the Americas.

The book is an enjoyable read, and certainly instills a desire to travel. More than once I wanted to purchase a motorcycle of my own, and follow Lois off down the highway. The author writes with a wonderful conversational style in which you almost feel like you're listening to her personally convey her stories to you. Combine this with a liberal dash of British humor, and you have a charming travel tale that reinforces the point of most travel tales - The Journey Is It's Own Reward!

You can find out more about Lois and her adventures at her official website where you can also learn that she recently completed a Trans-African journey by motorcycle as well. After completing Lois On The Loose I can only hope that there will be a follow-up to detail her adventures in Africa. I'm one reader who hasn't gotten his fill of Lois and her motorcycle odysseys, and if you enjoy a good travel story, that is both funny and thoughtful, I have a feeling you might just fall for Lois too.

Prepping For the Fourteeners

So you live in Colorado, and the weather is starting to turn for the better, and you've decided that this year, you're going to climb at least one of the 54 fourteeners in your state. (That's mountains of 14,000 feet or better for those just joining us) Well, The Denver Post is here to help with some great tips on preparing for a high altitude hike.

They recommend making a number of smaller hikes first if you are not an experienced hiker or use to spending time on the trail. Going from 5000 feet to 14,000 feet in one day can be dangerous the article warns, and you never know for sure what how your body will react to altitude. They also suggest stretching, doing yoga, lifting weights, and a good cardiovascular workout in preparation for your climb.

Other tips include waiting until mid-June to avoid snow and sudden bad weather, which can be common in the mountains. Bring the right gear for the day and know how much water, food, and other items you'll need to take with you. And finally, don't be afraid to turn back. Altitude can do odd things to you, and the weather can change very quickly, so play it safe and don't risk injury or worse. Finally, they also list their "Ten Essentials" of gear that should always be in your pack. Good advice all around.

Thanks Tom!

Kayaking The Length of the Mississippi

The Crazy Kayaker is only a few weeks away from setting off on his "Mississippi Challenge 2007" which will see him kayaking the length of the Mississippi River. He'll embark on his 100 day journey in mid-May and hopes to be in New Orleans by the end of August.

CK is also known as Jacob van der Merwe and Jacob says that this adventure is a dream come true for him. The 2000 mile journey will begin in Minneapolis/St. Paul and continue to the mouth of the Mighty Mississippi in Louisiana. An epic journey to be sure.

You'll be able to follow all of his adventures in his blog and when it's all wrapped up, Jacob would like to write a book about the experience. Sounds like a great way to spend the Summer! :)

Thanks Backcountry Blog!

Summit Bids In The Himalaya!

MountEverest.net has posted an update on impending summit bids in the Himalaya. There has been a flurry of activity in the past few days, and teams have put themselves in a position to top out soon.

On Annapurna, Camp 2 is firmly established, but low visibilty in BC has forced teams off the mountain, and fear of avalanches, which is always the case on Annapurna, has other teams wary of going higher. Over on Dhaulagiri, several teams have put themselves into position to make summit bids over the next few days, weather permitting. Dodo's Slovak Team is aiming for the summit on Shisha Pangma sometime next week, as long as the weather forcast holds out. Finally, Gavin Bate and his team are in Camp 2 on Cho Oyu, and are also aiming for a summit bid sometime next week.

Good luck guys. Climb high! Climb safe!

Book Review: The Eiger Obsession

I've been teasing a book review for The Eiger Obession since before I left for Africa. There is something to be said for a 28 hour (One way!) travel time for helping you get caught up on your reading. Here are my thoughts on the book...

The Eiger Obession by John Harlin III is an interesting dichotomy of parts. On the one hand, it's a biography of Harlin's father, John Harlin II, who was an amazing climber in the Alps during the 50's and 60's, and on the other hand it's an auto-biography of Harlin III himself, and his life following his father's death on the Eiger back in 1966. Finally, it's the story of a son, following in his father's footsteps, to silence some demons, and even breakout from a long shadow, and form his own identity.

John Harlin II was pilot for the U.S. Airforce stationed in Europe during the 1950's. He was tall, athletic, and very charismatic. He was also a climber of no small skill, and he loved the Alps. They were practically his own personal playground, and over the years, he put up new routes, and climbed all the major peaks in the range. He became a legend in the European climbing community and even earned the nickname "The Blonde God". There was one route however that Harlin hadn't conquered, but continued to have dreams of completing: The Eiger Direct. Up until that time, there was only one route up The Eiger, the biggest, baddest face in the Alps, and it wandered all over the wall until it reached the top. Harlin wanted to put up a straight route, a more direct route. So, in 1966 he went after that route, with a team of excellent climbers I might add, but in doing so, he lost his life when a frayed rope broke while he was on it. In the end, the team reached the top, and the route was called the "John Harlin Route", but his death had profound consequences on the people who knew him.

The second half of the book follows Harlin's son, John Harlin III, as he grows up and becomes quite a good climber in his own right. However, along the way, he can always feel the shadow of his father over him, as other climbers question his abilities and accomplishments. And of course, always looming over him, is The Eiger itself, which he finally faces for an upcoming IMAX film entitled The Alps. Upon conquering The Eiger, Harlin III at last puts some of those demons to rest.

The book itself is very well written and does a good job of mixing the biographical and autobiographical elements. Harlin III, who is no stranger to writing and editing, paces the book nicely, and you'll find that it's quick and easy to read, while still offering all the details and information necessary to tell the story it needs to. He also does a fine job of walking the fine line of being an adoring son, who remembers his father in one light, while still examining the way others saw him as well. Harlin II was known to exaggerate the truth from time to time, and other climbers found him to be a bit of prima donna or poser on the mountain, and yet the author acknowledges those elements in his father, without losing his own boyish admiration that many of us can relate to with our own fathers.

The book is also a nice history of The Eiger itself. Harlin gives us plenty of background on the mountain that became the stage for both his father, and in due time, himself. It's probably the most famous face in the Alps, and while it's been climbed numerous times, it still remains iconic to this day.

In the end, The Eiger Obession is a very satisfying read. It's a well told story of two men, father and son, who climbed for different reasons, but shared much more than just a name. I enjoyed the book all the way through, and would highly recommend it to climbers and non-climbers alike. The story is compelling and told in such a way that anyone can enjoy it. It should also make a great companion to The Alps when it's released to IMAX theaters soon. The book would also make a great Father's Day gift in a few months as well, and will make a fine addition to anyone's personal climbing library.

I've got another book finished that I'll be reviewing soon as well. Something of a completely different nature, but just as enjoyable for very different reasons.

Martin Strel Completes Amazon Swim!

This news is a week old now, but sue me, I've been busy. ;)

Martin Strel has completed his 5,265km swim down the length of the Amazon River according to the Globe and Mail.

I first reported on his attempt a few months back, and now he's done it. The swim began in Peru and proceeded through Brazil, and along the way he encountered piranha, sickness, and exhaustion as he averaged more than 80km per day. At one point, he was even told by doctors to give up on his quest, and yet he pressed on, setting another world record for long distance swimming.

I can't even imagine swimming that far. The endurance and determination for such a task is simply amazing. Congrats Martin!

Thanks Adventure Blog

Ten Trails For Spring Exploration

Spring is certainly in the air, and it's time to get out and explore some new trails. Mountain Zone has some really great suggestions to help get you started.

There are some great trails on the list, like the Turguoise-To-Twin Traverse, in Lake Clark National Park, Alaska or the Peekabo Trail in The Canyonlands National Park, Utah. All told, there are ten trails in all, in different regions of the U.S., so you're sure to find something fairly close to home.

So, now that it's warming up. Pull on your Spring hiking gear, break out the pack and the walking sticks, call your buddies and hit the trail. Spring really is one of the best times to be out in the backcountry.

Everest and Himalaya Update

ExWeb has posted updates on both Everest itself and the Himalaya in general today as the climbing season continues.

Over on Everest, it seems that the Khumbu Icefall continues to be a source of irritation with traffic jams reported in the area, which is the most deadly section of the mountain. At least on the South Side. There are also reports that Base Camp on the North Side is a bit tense, with Discovery Channel in the area once more to film a follow-up to their Everest: Beyond The Limit series. David Tait notes that everyone is trying to get to know one another, but that the flim crew is a bit of an irritation. You'll recall that Tait intends to complete a "double traverese" of Everest, by going up the North face, then descending on the South, and after resting a week or so, reversing the process and returning to the North.

Other teams report that Camp 2 has been established with the first climbers reaching that mark, while others are wandering in the Western Cwm. Tim Warren says he's "knackered", or too tired to put one foot in front of the other at the moment, something I'm all too familiar with of late, while other teams are fighting flu and symptoms of altitude sickness.

New from the other Himalayan climbs in the area is filtering in as well. Over on Annapurna, camps are being established and routes created, but they're not so busy to where they can't work in a few golf lessons. On Dhaulagiri, the story is much the same, with the Italians establishing Camp 2, despite bitter cold and high winds, and more teams still getting eastablished on the mountain. The same story is filtering in from Cho Oyu, Shisha Pangma, and others.

Safari Tease!

Just a few quick pictures to whet your appetite while I work on getting things back to normal in resuming my usual posting schedule. I took these two shots while on safari and I think they turned out really well. They are two young male lions, both of them were hunting together, and while we watched them, they stalked a small hard of wildebeasts for about twenty minutes or so.

More to come soon, I promise! :)

Out of Africa!

Just a quick note to let everyone know that I'm home, safe and sound, from Africa. I had a wonderful time and have a lot to share. I appreciate all the kind words and thoughts while I was away and I intend to crank things back up here soon once I get over the jetlag and climb out from all the work waiting for me.

Just so I don't keep everyone in suspense, I'll let everyone know right now that I did not summit on Kili, but not because I wasn't ready physically. My training was good, and I was strong on the mountain. I had the right gear and equipment, and the altitude had nearly no effect on me. So what kept me from reaching the summit? The altitude did have one effect on me that I hadn't thought of nor could have preapred for, and that was the complete lack of sleep while on the mountain.

The first night we camped at about 10,200 feet or so, and I was able to get about 1 1/2 to maybe 2 hours of sleep. This was following 28 hours of travel to Tanzania the days before and about four hours of sleep before we started the climb. As the days progressed, I got less and less sleep, generally only in the 1/2 hour per night area, and the day before summit day, I got none at all. The result, was that after five days of trekking the mountain, and probably a combined 7 or 8 hours of sleep over a week, I was literally exhausted when I reached basecamp the night before the summit attempt.

At that point, I made the decision to not go for the summit, as it was 6 to 7 hours up, plust another 2 to 3 back down, followed by a short rest, and another 4 hours further down after that. In the condition I was in, that didn't seem like a smart option to me at the time. While I was disappointed, I still feel like I made the right choice, as I feared that I would become even more exhausted should I push myself to the limit, and with a whole week of Safari ahead, I didn't want to end up sick or worse.

Fortunately, upon returning to lower altitudes, I began to sleep fine once more, and soon caught up on my sleep, but of course by then, my chances for the summit were gone and I had to settle for being satisfied with the wonderful trekking on the mountain, without the summit. Colm, my climbing partner from Ireland, did go for the summit, and was successful in his attempt. He said it was the hardest thing he had ever done, and this is coming from a person who runs three and a half hour marathons. He knew what kind of shape I was in due to my lack of sleep, and thought that I had made the right choice as well.

In the days ahead, I'll be blogging on the whole experience in more detail, offering my thoughts on the climb and the lessons I learned while on the mountain. The first lesson is an easy one though. Were I to do things over, I think I would have scheduled a free day between my travels and the start of the cliimb. It would have helped me to rest up a bit, and work on the jetlag some, before starting up Kilimanjaro. Looking back, that may have helped some, although it's unlikely it would have made a difference in my ability to sleep on the mountain. The only thing that would have helped would have been more acclimatization and possibly a slower route to the top.

Fortunately, I don't feel like I have "unfinished business" with Kili. The trekking was still wonderful, I had a great time, made several new friends, and still count the trip as a success, even without the summit. Hopefully in my future blog posts on the subject I can convey that, and more about the experience.

Finally, I'd like to thank Duma Explorer for such a great experience both on Kili and on Safari. They were very professional, well organized, and prepared us well for what to expect. If you're thinking of visiting Tanzania for a climb or safari of your own, I can't recommend them enough. Plus, they are a locally owned company, meaning that when you use them, you're not only employing Tanzanians, the money is actually staying in the country itself and not going back to the U.S. or U.K. Something to think about in todays competitive travel environment.

More soon...