Skier Falls Off Mountain. Helmet Cam Records The Action.

I posted this video over on Gadling this morning, but thought it was a good way to start the day here as well, but be warned it is a bit painful to watch. The video features skier Stefan Ager, who was in the Alps for some climbing and shredding. Stefan was wearing his GoPro helmet cam when he accidentally stepped off the back of the mountain he was intending to ski down. The result is rather brutal tumble down some rocks. Fortunately, he walked away with  no injuries at all, but you'll probably wince a few times as you watch the vid. Ouch!

Best Hike's Top Ten Hiking Towns Worldwide: #4

The Best Hike Blog continues its countdown of the Top Ten Hiking Towns in the World today by revealing the #4 location on their list. That honor goes to Cortina, Italy, a sleepy little mountain village of 6000 people located at 1224 meters (4015 feet) in the Dolomites.

Cortina serves as the base camp for a number of excellent hikes into the Alps and is just as popular in the winter as it is during the summer. Best Hike editor Rick McCharles says the best time to visit is mid-June to  early-October if you hope to hike the near-by mountains, but the region is also home to some great skiing come the winter months as well.

Check back tomorrow for the number 3 hiking town. Europe keeps on getting the love for all the great hiking in the Alps, but perhaps the top three spots are dominated by other destinations. We'll just have to wait to see.

Ueli Steck Speed Solos Ginat on the Droites

Ueli Steck is once again up to his old tricks, making a solo, speed-climb up the Ginat route on the Droites in the French Alps back on January 19th, and doing so in what may be a record time. According to this blog post on Alpine Exposures, the Swiss climbing legend sped up the face in just two hours and eight minutes.

The current official record for the route is two hours, thirty minutes, held by Christophe Profit, and although at this point, Ueli's climb is considered "unofficial", it is impressive none the less. Even more amazing that that he completed the little jaunt up the hill without acclimatization and after a two-month lay-off from alpine climbing. It was also the first climb up the face of the year, which means there were no trail blazed that he could follow. Ueli, his usual modest self, said he was just doing it for "fun".

The climb was caught on film and a video is promised in the next few weeks. But for now, we'll just have to settle for the amazing photos shot by Jonathan Griffith that appear on the blog post. The high quality images catch the master climber at work, with the stunning backdrop of the Alps around him. They also give you a great sense of what this big wall is all about, which offers a mixed route of ice and rock, that looks like it would be quite the challenge for mere mortal climbers. For Ueli though, it's just a walk in the park. Back in the lodge by lunch time I'm sure. The man never ceases to amaze.

North Face Coming To US Theaters January 29th

A few weeks back I posted a link to a trailer for an upcoming film called North Face which recounts the efforts of German climbers circa 1936 to conquer the unclimbed North Face of the Eiger. Now, a few more details on the film, including a release date, have emerged.

The film is set to hit American theaters on Friday, January 29th. I've been told that the film has been out for months in Europe, but it is just now making its way to this side of the pond, and from most accounts, it is worth the wait. The movie will center around German climbers Toni Kurz and Andi Hinterstoisser (Played by Benno Furmann and Florian Lukas respective), who were spurred on by nationalism and Nazi pride, to make an attempt on the most dangerous and notorious rock face in the Alps.

The climb begins innocently enough, but conditions soon begin to erode on the mountain, and two men find themselves in a race against time, with the elements closing in around them, and while they are suspended on one of the most challenging and physically demanding rock faces anywhere in the world.

For those that haven't seen it, I've posted the trailer once again. The film looks like it was stunningly shot, and I'm already looking forward to catching it. I'm glad it's finally coming stateside, as it's obviously better late then never.

Climbing Video of the Grandes Jorasses

Check out this excellent climbing video from the Hardwear Sessions YouTube Channel. It shows a trio of climbers on the Colton-MacIntyre Route of the Grandes Jorasses in the French Alps. That's the same mountain that Ulei Steck set a new speed record on a few weeks back, although he went up a different route.

The video has some beautiful shots of the snow covered mountain and the region around it, with spectacular views. There are also some good video and still photos of the climbers working the rock and ice as well.

Breaking News: National Geographic Adventurer of the Year Dies In the Alps

I've been away from the Internet for most of the day today, but just came home to find out that Rob Gauntlett, the youngest Brit to top out on Everest, has died in the Alps today. He was just 21 years old.

According to the BBC article I linked to above, a spokesman has confirmed that Gauntlett, along with another climber, have fallen in the French Alps, and have perished. The details are a bit sketchy at the moment, but we do know that Rob, and is as of yet unnamed friend, arrived in the region just after the new year, and were ice climbing near Chamonix, when they took what has been called a "big fall".

Gauntlett was recently the recipient of the National Geographic Adventurer of the Year award after he, and James Hooper, completed an epic journey from the North to the South Pole. Following that adventure, they went on to sail 1800 miles to Australia as well.

My condolences go out to both men's families. Our thoughts are with you today.

Thanks to Jo Adams for bringing this to my attention.

Ueli Steck Sets Another Speed Record in the Alps!

We haven't heard from Ueli Steck in awhile. I was beginning to think he was slacking off somewhere, but I suppose I should have known better. It seems that he's been up to his usual bag of tricks, namely setting new speed records on big European peaks.

According to this story from the Hardwear Sessions, back on December 28th, Ueli climbed the North face of the Grandes Jorasses on the Mount Blanc massif in a record time of 2 hours, 21 minutes, and solo no less. He topped out on Pointe Walker, a 4208 meter (13,805 feet) summit that marks the highest point in the Grandes Jorasses. Not a bad days worth of climbing for his first attempt on the wall huh?

Ueli has now completed the North Face on the three biggest mountains in Europe, namely the Eiger, the Matterhorn, and now the Grandes Jorasses. He holds the absolute speed record on the Eiger and now the Grandes Jorasses, and holds the speed record for the Bonatti route on the Matterhorn as well.

Check out the full story at the Mountain Hardwear blog where they have more details on the climb itself. Really impressive stuff out of Ueli once again. Congrats on another amazing climb!

Interview With Mountaineer Roger Schäli

Our intrepid reporter Jo Adams, who brought us that great story on Ueli Steck winning the Eiger Award over the weekend, is back with another great interview, this time with Swiss climber Roger Schäli, a young mountaineer who has already managed to build an impressive resume.

Schäli began climbing at the age of 14 when his father first took him up into the Alps, but since then he's knocked off South America's coveted triple crown of climbing by successfully scaling Cerro Torre, Torre Egger and Torre Standard. He also teamed with Simon Anthamatten a few months back to set a new team speed record on The Eiger, before going on to become the first person to ever climb the six great North Walls of the Alps - Eiger (3970m), Grandes Jorasses (4208m), Matterhorn (4477m), Petit Dru (3734m), Piz Badile (3308m) and Große Zinne (2999m) - in succession. Impressive indeed.

Despite having tackled challenging big walls all over Europe and South America, Schäli still refers to The Eiger as his playground, and in this interview he talks about climbing his favorite mountain. He says "This mountain is so great! I can leave home at 5am in Bern, climb the north face of the Eiger, stand on the summit and be eating pizza in Bern in the evening!” Which pretty much describes a perfect day for Roger.

Schäli touches on a variety of topics including what it's like to climb with SImon, what it was like putting up a new route on the "Magic Mushroom" of the Eiger, and his plans for the future, although he holds his cards close to the vest when discussing possible new routes.

Thanks again Jo for sharing this great interview with us and for taking some good photos to go along with it. Your works is much appreciated.

Summer Hiking In The Alps

The Times Online Travel Section has a nice article today on the best summer hiking in the Alps with some good advice on where to take the family or to have a bigger adventure depending on your tastes.

The article is written by five time Olympic skier Sean Newsome, who admits that he didn't even realize that you there were other things to do in the Alps, besides skiing, until after his career as a downhiller was over. Now he takes full advantage of Europe's iconic mountain chain in both the summer and the winter, by hiking some of it's highest peaks and exploring it's many trails.

He even hops on a bike to punish himself on some of the bigger climbs in France as well. His description of the self-induced agony is both humorous and awe inspiring. You'll come away with a new found admiration for those amazing climbers in the Tour de France, even as your legs cry out in sympathy pains at just the thought of it.

But the focus of the article his hiking, and he has some great suggestions for places to visit. Newsome claims that the trails are mostly empty in the summer, but that it's the perfect time to trek the region, enjoying quaint villages, wonderful inns, and a taste of mountain culture.

If you're taking the family, he recommends heading to Saas-Fee, Switzerland, where you'll find amazing scenery, a plethora of trails for all skill levels, and daycare right at the resort should you need it. Looking for something a little more action packed? Then try hiking from Vitznau to Zermatt which not only offers spectacular views and challenging high altitude trails, but you can choose to do it on your feet or the back of a mountain bike.

There is more as well, so if you're thinking about a European getaway this summer, and want to try something a bit different, then perhaps this will fit your needs. After all, there are worse ways to spend your vacation than wandering amazing trails in some of the most beautiful mountains in the world while spending your nights in quaint and comfortable inns. Sign me up!

Europe's Best Treks

The Times Online has a cool article today on Europe's Top Treks with some great ideas for hitting the trail when visiting that continent. While many don't think of Europe as being a great destination for trekking, there are still plenty of great spots to hike, although they do tend to be less arduous and offer up amenities that you don't find elsewhere.

Take for example the four day trek through the Tuscan hills that the author of the article first mentions. The trail runs from San Gimignano to Siena and winds it's way through very scenic landscapes dotted with Italian villages. At the end of the day you can stay in comfortable Inns, complete with swimming pools, and dine of fine food and wine from the surrounding area. Not exactly roughing it, especially when you're covering just 10 miles per day on average.

Most of the article focuses on the Tuscan trek, but there are also five other treks that are given brief, but enticing descriptions. Each of the treks offer a simple to follow route, with similar amenities. Comfortable inns, transfer of your baggage to each night's location, and cultural treats to compliment your hiking experience. For instance, The Lycian Way, which wanders 300 miles along the coast of Turkey, highlighted with beautiful beaches, ancient citadels, and orange groves.

Of course, no list of European treks is complete with out the Haute Route, and it makes the list as well. Probably the most classic of European treks, this one wanders the Alps, passing through high altitude passes, and covering ground from Chamonix to Zermatt. This one is more challenging than the others, but still ends each day with a stay in a comfy mountain hut, with good food, wine, and other European luxuries.

A Ice Climbing Triple Header In The Alps

The Alpinist has posted an excellent trip report on ice climbers Robert Jasper and Bernd Rathmayr who recently put up a trio of routes while climbing the Swiss Alps in the beginning of January.

Jasper, of Germany, joined forces with Rathmayr from Switzerland, to climb three challenging faces including a first ascent on B.A.S.E. (WI6), the first ascent of Almendudler (M9+/10-), and then capped off their trilogy with a climb on Crack Baby (WI6). The climbs were all accomplished over a three day period that the men spent in tje Bernese Oberland area of Switzerland.

More details on each of the climbs can be found in the article at The Alpinist. It sounds like all three climbs was a very unique and challenging experience for the two men. When they were done, they had managed to climb more than 1000 meters over the course of the three days in the mountains. Very impressive stuff. Oh, and that picture kicks ass too!

Thanks to The Hardwear Sessions for this one.

Book Review: The Eiger Obsession

I've been teasing a book review for The Eiger Obession since before I left for Africa. There is something to be said for a 28 hour (One way!) travel time for helping you get caught up on your reading. Here are my thoughts on the book...

The Eiger Obession by John Harlin III is an interesting dichotomy of parts. On the one hand, it's a biography of Harlin's father, John Harlin II, who was an amazing climber in the Alps during the 50's and 60's, and on the other hand it's an auto-biography of Harlin III himself, and his life following his father's death on the Eiger back in 1966. Finally, it's the story of a son, following in his father's footsteps, to silence some demons, and even breakout from a long shadow, and form his own identity.

John Harlin II was pilot for the U.S. Airforce stationed in Europe during the 1950's. He was tall, athletic, and very charismatic. He was also a climber of no small skill, and he loved the Alps. They were practically his own personal playground, and over the years, he put up new routes, and climbed all the major peaks in the range. He became a legend in the European climbing community and even earned the nickname "The Blonde God". There was one route however that Harlin hadn't conquered, but continued to have dreams of completing: The Eiger Direct. Up until that time, there was only one route up The Eiger, the biggest, baddest face in the Alps, and it wandered all over the wall until it reached the top. Harlin wanted to put up a straight route, a more direct route. So, in 1966 he went after that route, with a team of excellent climbers I might add, but in doing so, he lost his life when a frayed rope broke while he was on it. In the end, the team reached the top, and the route was called the "John Harlin Route", but his death had profound consequences on the people who knew him.

The second half of the book follows Harlin's son, John Harlin III, as he grows up and becomes quite a good climber in his own right. However, along the way, he can always feel the shadow of his father over him, as other climbers question his abilities and accomplishments. And of course, always looming over him, is The Eiger itself, which he finally faces for an upcoming IMAX film entitled The Alps. Upon conquering The Eiger, Harlin III at last puts some of those demons to rest.

The book itself is very well written and does a good job of mixing the biographical and autobiographical elements. Harlin III, who is no stranger to writing and editing, paces the book nicely, and you'll find that it's quick and easy to read, while still offering all the details and information necessary to tell the story it needs to. He also does a fine job of walking the fine line of being an adoring son, who remembers his father in one light, while still examining the way others saw him as well. Harlin II was known to exaggerate the truth from time to time, and other climbers found him to be a bit of prima donna or poser on the mountain, and yet the author acknowledges those elements in his father, without losing his own boyish admiration that many of us can relate to with our own fathers.

The book is also a nice history of The Eiger itself. Harlin gives us plenty of background on the mountain that became the stage for both his father, and in due time, himself. It's probably the most famous face in the Alps, and while it's been climbed numerous times, it still remains iconic to this day.

In the end, The Eiger Obession is a very satisfying read. It's a well told story of two men, father and son, who climbed for different reasons, but shared much more than just a name. I enjoyed the book all the way through, and would highly recommend it to climbers and non-climbers alike. The story is compelling and told in such a way that anyone can enjoy it. It should also make a great companion to The Alps when it's released to IMAX theaters soon. The book would also make a great Father's Day gift in a few months as well, and will make a fine addition to anyone's personal climbing library.

I've got another book finished that I'll be reviewing soon as well. Something of a completely different nature, but just as enjoyable for very different reasons.

The Alps: "A Gorgeous Homage to Alpine Climbing"

International Herald Tribune has posted an AP story on the new IMAX film The Alps which I've mentioned briefly a few times already. This is the film that follows John Harlin III up The Eiger on the same route that killed his father nearly 40 years ago. The climb was the inspiration for Harlin's book The Eiger Obsession.

The article talks about Harlin climbing in his father's footsteps, even as his own nine year old daughter watches through a telescope from the chalet below. Harlin III was nine years old himself when his father fell off the face of the Eiger while pursuing his dream to climb the "Eiger Direct" route.

This is the first "review" of the film that I've seen however, and it comes across as nothing short of glowing. The film looks great, as you would expect from an IMAX film, and goes to great lengths to capture an accurate portrayal of what it's like to climb a big mountain face in the Alps. The BIGGEST face in the Alps as a matter of fact.

The film sounds amazing, and I can't wait to see it. Unfortunately, it isn't playing in my area yet, nor is listed on the IMAX website, so I'm not sure when it's coming. But I'll keep my eyes peeled, and when I do get a chance to see it, I'll be sure to post my thoughts here. I'm also plugging away on the book, but with a busy week ahead, I'm not sure I'll be able to post a review before I leave for Kili on Saturday. With a little luck, I'll get it finished, otherwise I'll have to post it upon my return.

Ranulph Fiennes Conquers The Eiger!

British Explorer and all around Adventurer, Sir Ranulph Fiennes has completed his goal to scale the North Face of the Eiger. Fiennes undertook this endeavor, at the age of 62 no less, in an effort to raise money for the Marie Curie Cancer Care Program.

In all, it took five full days on the Eiger Face for Fiennes to reach the summit. Along the way, the explorer had to over come attacks of vertigo, climbing that he described as "nightmarish", and a long hard climb over the Traverse of the Gods. All of this with out the use of half the fingers on his left hand thanks to severe frostbite from a 2000 expedition to the South Pole.

Fiennes has vowed to "never again" climb the Eiger, and has been quoted as saying that had he known it would be as difficult as it was, he isn't sure the would have taken the challenge, even to raise funds for the Marie Curie Charity.

You have to hand it to him, climbing the Eiger is no small feat, even for a much younger man. Fiennes not only completed the climb, he hasn't pulled any punches when it comes to evaluating the difficulty of the North Face. Clearly this took a lot out of him and it makes you wonder how many more of these adventures Sir Ranulph can under take. You have to admire his spirit of adventure.

Glaciers To Be Gone From The Alps By 2050

Experts are now predicting that the glaciers in the Alps are retreating at such a pace, that they may be gone altogether by 2050. According to this article over at NationalGeographic.com, about 3 percent of glacial ice is lost each year, and the retreating glaciers mean less drinking water, more unstable rock conditions, and would probably spell doom for the ski industry in the mountains.

It's not just the Alps however, as reports from around the globe, including the Andes, Himalaya, and Kilimanjaro. The ice is retreating from all of those locations, and it could have a devistating impact on the envrionments in all those locations. Global warming is of course the cause, with green house gases becoming thicker in the atmosphere. At this rate, we may see most of the major glaciers in the World almost completely gone in our lifetimes.

The article does note that a similar retreating of the glaciers occurred within the last 10,000 years. It's pretty evident that we're going through a phase of global warming. You'd be hard pressed to find any way to deny that. But the extend of which man is playing a role is still fairly debatable in my opinion. The Earth goes through these cycles regularly, at least in geological terms, and if this has happened in the last 10,000 years, then it's fairly recent. But the rate at which these glaciers are melting seems fairly unsual for something completely natural. It's sad that we could be losing these resources in such a short period of time.

Saving Mount Blanc

Stellar Magazine has posted this article about efforts that are underway to clean up, and preserve Mount Blanc, one of the most iconic climbing and trekking sites in Europe, if not the world. It seems that with the influx of visitors, including tourists, climbers, and others, the amount of trash on the mountain has grown into an epidemic. Now, Jean-Marc Peillex, Mayor of the town of Saint-Gervais has put together a controversial plan. Peillex would like to see anyone who wishes to climb on the mountain have to first get a permit, and then trek with a guide. Surprisingly, main mountaineers have spoken out against the plan however, as they see it undermining the "spirit of the sport".

It's an interesting debate, and one that is sure to be creeping up in other locations around the planet. I've already read stories about the amount of trash on Everest, and of course we all know the issues that arose on the Inca Trail in Peru which forced the government there to take measures not unlike what Peillex is suggesting. Personally, I see both sides of the argument. We need to protect our most precious outdoor environments so that they will remain a place we want to visit and are around for future generations to explore. On the other hand, by requiring permits and guides, it does take away some of the adventure of exploring a place on our own.

Dispatches from the Via Alpina Trail

National Geographic Adventure has posted another great article that is sure to get your wanderlust going, and have you dusting off your backpack and hiking boots. Two of their intrepid reporters set off in mid-July to through hike the Via Alpina trail. What's that you ask? Well, it's the first trans-Alps trail that was formed by linking existing trails through eight different countries, including Slovenia, Austria, Germany, Liechtenstein, Switzerland, France, Italy, and Monaco. The 1500 mile long Via Alpina will lead you through some of the most beautiful mountains on Earth. The NG website has the first trail dispatch, from Slovenia, with more to come, as well as a beautiful slide show, suggestions on where to stay, and a planning guide for preparing for your own trip. Yep! Another expedition just got added to my life list!

Tour Update: Here Come The Alps!

It was another flast, and mostly fast, stage on the Tour de France today. We saw a breakway that built up a huge lead, nearly a half hour on the Peloton, and the escapees managed to maintain that breakway until the very end. As a result, Oscar Pereiro or Spain claimed the Yellow Jersey from American Floyd Landis, who fell to second place. Landis is betting that he can make up the 1 minute and 29 second difference between the two when they enter the Alps over the next few days. Tomorrow's stage will take them to the foothills of those mountains, and there are three amazingly tough mountain stages yet to come, and that is where the Tour will be decided this year.

Giant Rock Slab Falls Off The Eiger

According to this article over at Outside Online, a huge piece of rock, weighing "millions of tons", has fallen off the side of Eiger, a 13,000+ foot peak in Switzerland. The slab was pushed loose by retreating glaciers, and has been threatening to fall for several months.

Eiger is one of the most recognizable and challenging climbs in Europe, with a sheer wall leading to the top of the tower. It was also immortalized in the 1975 Clint Eastwood movie The Eiger Sanction.