Himalaya 2011: Ueli Steck Shares Details Of Cho Oyu

Last Friday we got the news that Ueli Steck and Don Bowie had summitted Cho Oyu, notching Ueli's second 8000 meter peak in 18 days. Over the weekend, both men shared their thoughts on the climb, filing in some of the details of the ascent and their time on the mountain.

Ueli posted this detailed report, which gives us a timeline of the climb and conveys a sense of urgency that they felt due to weather window that had opened for the 4th and 5th of the month. After that, things looked dicey, and if they hoped to reach the summit before moving on to their next challenge, they would need to take advantage of what ever window nature offered. That's exactly what they did, and according to Ueli, it was a fairly easy, as far as 8000 meter peaks go, climb.

He did note that he wasn't nearly as fresh on Cho Oyu as he was on Shisha Pangma a few weeks back. Judging from his report, he is looking forward to finishing the expedition, and heading home, as he has been away for some time now, and the toll of climbing and trekking in the Himalaya has begun to wear on him.

Of course, he and Don have one more peak yet to go, and that would be Everest. The pair hope to return to Lhasa tomorrow and spend a day or two resting there before driving to Everest Base Camp, provided the Chinese grant them permission to do so. It seems that they will most likely be in BC by the weekend, and should be ready to have a crack at the mountain sometime next week, provided they feel healthy and read, and the weather holds out.

For a second report on their climb, you can read Don's account by clicking here. He treads similar ground as Ueli, but shares some other details as well, such as a nasty bout of sickness that hit both men prior to their Cho Oyu ascent.

And for those asking, yes there is a summit photo this time. Ueli and Don were part of a small group of climbers who went up the mountain, as opposed to Steck's solo efforts on Shisha.

Himalaya 2011: Ueli and Don Summit Cho Oyu!

Ueli Steck and Don Bowie have topped out on Cho Oyu, reaching the summit yesterday and nabbing the second 8000 meter peak in just 18 days for Steck. Details remain a bit light at the moment, and the home teams for both men say that they are still returning to Base Camp, where we are likely to get more information, and possibly summit photos this time out.

Back on April 18th, Ueli made a speed climb of Shisha Pangma (8013 m/26,289 ft), going tent-to-tent in under 20 hours. That was just the warm-up for the Swiss climber however, as he immediately left that mountain for Cho Oyu, where he and Don have apparently made another light and fast alpine style ascent. Standing 8201 meters (26,906 ft) in height, Cho Oyu is the sixth highest mountain in the world.

Up next, the duo will head over to Everest to try their luck on the tallest of the 8000 meter peaks. They'll likely arrive just in time as well. With the route to the summit in place, most teams are waiting for a weather window to begin their climb. I'm guessing Don and Ueli will wait out the crowds and rest up in Base Camp, before making another ascent. They'll probably want everyone out of their way once they get moving.

Congrats to Ueli and Don on a job well done. Two 8000 meter peaks in the span of less than three weeks is pretty impressive stuff.

Himalaya 2011: Ueli Shares Details On Shisha Climb

Last week we received the amazing news on Ueli Steck's solo speed climb of Shisha Pangma in 10.5 hours. Since then, we've had a variety of reports on the climb, but we haven't heard from Ueli himself. That is, until today, when he posted details of the climb on his Himalayan Speed website.

Steck says that when he set off from camp he didn't have any intentions of climbing the mountain, but that he was going to climb up to about 7200 meters (23,622 ft) to have a look around and see how he felt. But the conditions were so good and he felt in great shape, that he decided to just keep going up.

Ueli says that he climbed along the British Route, then traversed over the Wieliki Route because of bad rockfall in the night. Eventually though, he ended by exiting on the Spanish Route, although he was more or less just feeling his own way as he went. He did report a lot of snow near the summit, which made things a bit dicy, but still he managed to complete the climb in a very quick fashion.

Check out the video below for more on Ueli's Shisha speed climb. And before anyone asks, no, there still aren't any summit photos released.


Ueli Steck Climbing Shisha Pangma (8027m) from Mountain Hardwear on Vimeo.

Himalaya 2011: More On Ueli's Speed Ascent Of Shisha Pangma

A few days back we received the stunning news of Ueli Steck making a solo speed climb of Shisha Pangma in just 10.5 hours. Over the past few days more details and information about that ascent have begun to trickle out, even as Ueli and his climbing partner, Don Bowie, make their way for their next big Himalayan peak.

An update was posted to Ueli's website, HimalayanSpeed.com, that contains some more insight into the climb. It seems that Steck attacked the South Face of the 8013 meter (26,289 ft) after getting a weather forecast that was favorable for his ascent. Bowie was forced to stay behind in ABC, as he has not fully acclimatized yet, but Ueli was able to go in his traditional style, light and fast, all the way to the top. His 10.5 hour climb marks the fastest ever ascent of the South Face and the second fastest 8000 meter climb of all time.

Don Bowie has also posted his thoughts on the climb on his website as well, with some personal insights into what happened as well. He says that Ueli had intended to climb with him, but Don encouraged him to take advantage of their present weather window and have a go at it. The forecasts weren't good for a few days later, and in mountaineering terms you have to go for it when you can. With that in mind, Ueli went for it, and the rest is history.

Don and Ueli are no en route to Cho Oyu, an 8201 meter (26,906 ft) peak on the border of Tibet and Nepal. They spent just five days on Shisha, much to the surprise of their support crew, who are use to settling in for weeks at a time. Even the yak herder who brought their gear was surprised to get a call back to BC, as he had barely returned home when it was time to pick up the gear once again.

This is just the latest demonstration of Ueli's versatile climbing skills. I guess there will probably come a time when I stop being surprised at the things this guy pulls off on the mountains, but I'm not sure when that will happen. He is simply an amazing climber, dedicated to his craft, and he'll probably have another great climb on Cho Oyu before heading over to the Big Hill – Everest – in a few weeks.

And for the commenter who has already been posting anonymously questioning Ueli's time and wondering about summit photos, you may want to stop trying to drum up controversy where there is none. Ueli's reputation is beyond reproach, and his skills are WELL documented. I'm sure that you'll get all the proof you need at some point. As for me, I have all I need in Ueli's word alone.

Can't wait to see what he and Don can do on the other two 8000 meter peaks on their itinerary.

Ueli Conquers Shisha Solo In 10.5 Hours!

So, I had no more than finished writing the post below this one about all the happenings in the Himalaya, when I came across this story over at Climbing.com about Ueli already knocking off Shishapangma! It seems that he arrived in Base Camp last week, and two days later made a summit bid.

According to Climbing, Ueli and Don Bowing made the climb up to ABC, located at 5,800 meters (19,029 ft) on Saturday. Don wasn't feeling ready yet for an attempt, so Ueli made a solo summit bid at 10 PM that night. By 9 AM yesterday morning he was on top of the mountain, and both he and Don were back in Base Camp just 20 hours after they left.

All I can say is WOW! Ueli never ceases to amaze me. While he has been acclimatizing throughout the region in preparation for this Himalayan Hat Trick, it is still amazing to read about his exploits. Keep thi sin mind, it is doubtful that there are even fixed ropes to the summit of Shisha yet, so for Steck to climb solo, and that fast, is simply incredible.

Congrats to Ueli on already taking down the first of his 8000 meter peaks. Good luck with the remaining two.

Himalaya 2011: Expeditions Make Way To Makalu, Shisha, and More

Over the past couple of weeks I've been following a number of climbers and teams as they've made their way to Everest, mainly on the South Side. As is usual for this time of year, there will be a lot of traffic on that side of the mountain, and a good deal of coverage for everything that is happening there. But as you well know, that isn't the only mountain of interest in the Himalaya, and teams are now making their way to some of those equally, if not more, challenging mountains, that are a bit lesser known.

For instance, Melissa Arnot and Dave Morton are on their way to Makalu, the 8481 meter (27,825 ft) peak located on the border between Nepal and Tibet. It i the 5th highest mountain in the world and one that Melissa has dreamed of climbing for some time. She and Dave will be sharing their experience on the First Ascent Born Out There Blog, with their first entry being filed yesterday. The two climbers  arrived in Lower Base Camp, located at 4800 meters (15,748 ft) yesterday, and were expecting to shuttle all of their gear up to BC at 5600 meters (18,372 ft) today.

The Field Touring Alpine squad is en route to Cho Oyu as well, and according to this blog post they should be arriving in Advanced Base Camp tomorrow or Wednesday. The team drove from Tingiri to Chinese BC on Saturday, where they arranged yaks for the trek, and should have arrived at Intermediate Base Camp today. Cho Oyu is the 6th highest peak on the planet at 8201 meters (26,906 ft) and obviously the FTA team is climbing from the Tibet (Chinese) side of the mountain.

Alex Gavan is in Base Camp on Kangchenjunga as well, and filed this dispatch today with reports on climbs as high as C1 on that mountain already. Alex and one of his teammates have spent the night in Camp 1, located at 6173 meters (20,252 ft) and are now back in BC with the rest of the Kangchenjunga climbers. Acclimatization is going well, and Base Camp is crowded this year, with five teams on the mountain. That's a lot of activity for this peak.

Finally, Ueli Steck and Don Bowie are on their way to Shishapangma, which will be the first of their Himalayan triple header. The talented climbing duo hope to not only climb that mountain, but also Cho Oyu and Everest this season. Word is that Ueli has already been acclimatizing for some time, and is prepared to make fast and light, alpine style attacks on all three of these mountains. Ueli is already a legend in climbing, and if he pulls this off, he'll only add to that resume. See the video below for more.

We're just getting warmed up in the Himalaya folks. While over all traffic in the region may be down a bit this year, there are still plenty of fantastic teams going after some impressive mountains. The next month to month and a half are going to be very busy there.



Ueli Steck's Project Himalaya from Mountain Hardwear on Vimeo.

Ski Tibet: Attempting the First Descent of Shisha Pangma

Last fall, a team of talented skiers and climbers traveled to Tibet to attempt to climb, and make the first descent of Shisha Pangma, an 8013 meter (26,289 ft) monster in the Himalaya. They managed to capture their adventure on video, which chronicled their travels through colorful and chaotic Tibet and on to the mountain itself. Last week they released a short teaser video of that adventure, which you'll find below. After watching it, you'll definitely be looking forward to the "long version" as it is beautifully shot and looks incredible.

Thanks to Adventure World Magazine for the tip off to this one.



Ski Tibet short version from Mark Fisher on Vimeo.

Himalaya Fall 2010: Solo Summit Bid On Lhotse

There was a lot of news from the adventure community while I was mostly out of contact last week. I'm regrouping and getting back to my schedule now, so expect the usual updates to resume. Bear with me while I work to get everything sorted out and report what's happening!

Of course the big story last week, which I did find time to post updates on, was Eric Larsen's successful completion of the Save the Poles Expedition. Eric reached the summit of Everest, which brought to an end his amazing journey that began last November when he set out for the South Pole. He would reach that point in early January of this year and then later went on to the North Pole in April. That left just Everest, which is sometimes called the "Third Pole" on his to do list for 2010. Last week he checked the mountain off his list as well, as he and his Sherpa guides became the only team to reach the top during the fall season. By doing so, Eric became the first person to visit all three poles in a single calendar year. Pretty impressive to say the least.

Eric has been posting updates on his blog, including the story of his successful summit bid. As of yesterday, he was making his way back down the Khumbu Valley and had reached the town of Pheriche. That means he's likely to be into Namche Bazaar today, and back in Kathmandu by Thursday or Friday, depending on weather and flights. I'm sure he's enjoying the walk back down, but it has to be a bit bittersweet as well. Again, congratulations to Eric on accomplishing his mission.

While Everest may have fallen silent until the spring, its neighbor, Lhotse, still has a few climbers attempting the summit, including Marty Schmidt who set off on a solo summit push on Sunday with the hopes of topping out tomorrow, weather permitting. If successful, this will be Marty's fourth 8000 meter peak this year having already knocked off Makalu and both the Gasherbrums earlier.

ExWeb posted an update yesterday with news on a host of summits across the Himalaya, including news from Shisha Pangma, Manaslu, Ama Dablam and more. It seems that the season is rapidly coming to a close, and it has been a bit of a mixed bag. Weather hounded teams on all of the big peaks, but that didn't stop some of the more adventurous climbers from reaching their goals. Now, we'll start to look toward the spring, when the region will get very busy once again.

[Photo Credit: Eric Larsen]

Himalaya 2010: Edurne Claims Number 14, Summits on Everest!

It was a busy weekend across the Himalaya, with summits on a number of peaks, most notably Everest itself, where the expected weather window opened, giving access to top of the word. But that wasn't the only news to come out of the region this weekend.

We'll start on Shishapangma, where spanish climber Edurne Pasaban topped out, claiming her 14th 8000 meter peak, and adding her list to the names of elite climbers who have accomplished that feat. Edurne and her team reached the summit at 11:30 AM local time today, making her the second woman to nab all of the big mountains. Korean Oh Eun-Sun was the first just a few weeks back. Congrats to Edurne on a job well done!!

Edurne wasn't the only one taking advantage of the great weather that hit the Himalaya yesterday, and continuing through today. A number of teams put climbers on top of Everest from the South Side this morning, including the Hanesbrands sponsored Climb With Us Team, which had Jaime Clarke and Steve Simper top out. They're using the new Everest Supersuit on their climb, so I'm eager to hear out it performed. The Peak Freaks have put a number of their clients on the summit as well, including Carina Raiha, who became the first woman from Finland to climb Everest, ending a rivalry and race with Anne-Mari Hyryläinen, who is climbing with the Altitude Junkies, and was hoping to beat Carina to the summit.

All told, about 60 climbers topped out on Everest today, including Kenton Cool, who claimed his 8th summit of the mountain. Another wave of climbers is expected tomorrow, with roughly 60 more waiting for their opportunity to stand on top of the world tallest mountain. A second major push is expected to come next week, when another weather window will open, and more commercial teams will begin their ascents.

Meanwhile, just next door to all the action going down on Everest, there has been some developments on Lhotse as well. A strong Kazakh team led by Maxut Zhumayev topped out on the mountain yesterday. The weather conditions were reportedly quite good, with little wind as well, just like on Everest. But that isn't the biggest news from the mountain, as another Kazakh climbing star, Denis Urubko, has opened a new route on the mountain from the South Col. According to RussianClimb.com, Denis went solo on the new route when he summitted yesterday as well. All the Kazakhs are back in Camp 2 and resting before going back to BC tomorrow.

Finally, ExWeb is reporting that there has been trouble on Dhaulagiri, where an Austrian team aborted a summit bid last week due to poor weather, but a Chinese team went up in the conditions anyway. The team reportedly reached the summit, but were caught in whiteout conditions on the way down, and things only got worse from there. One member of the team died on the descent, and four others were severely injured, prompting a helicopter rescue to evac the climbers from the mountain. Lets hope there are no more casualties and that everyone makes a speedy and full recovery.

Stay tuned for Everest updates throughout the week. There is sure to be big news from the North Side soon too.

Himalaya 2010: Action on Annapurna, Push Set To Begin on Shisha

The calendar has flipped to May, which can mean only one thing in the Himalaya –summits ahead!

We'll start on Annapurna, where plenty of climbers topped out last week, including Miss Oh Eun-Sun, the first woman to summit all 14 8000-meter peaks. Tragically, climber Tolo Calafat perished during that same summit push, succumbing to altitude sickness while making his descent. As ExWeb notes, this makes it seven straight years with at least one casualty on the mountain, which has more than earned its reputation as one of the toughest of the 14 to summit successfully.

Still, not everyone is done with Annapurna for the season. ExWeb is also reporting that Korean climber Park Young-Seok, who has summitted all 14 of the big peaks as well, is planning a new route up the South Face along a variation of the Bonnington route. The team hopes to have all their prep and scouting work done in time for a mid-May summit bid.

Moving over to the 26,289 foot Shisha Pangma, it seems teams are preparing to make summit bids this week. Included amongst them is Edurne Pasaban, who is successful, will join Miss Oh as the only women to claim all of the 8-thousanders. Reportedly, she was considering a light and fast alpine ascent, having already acclimatized on Annapurna, to go after the record for herself, but with Miss Oh claiming the crowd, she'll know take a more traditional approach to the climb, possibly joining one of the other teams already on the mountain. Watch for word on Shisha summits in the next few days, and another woman officially joining the boy's club of 8000 meter climbers.

Over on Makalu, teams have fixed ropes and established camps as high as C2 at the moment, and there had been plans to go higher over the weekend, but high winds and cold weather prevented that from happening. Most teams are now looking at a mid-week window for climbing up to Makalu-La at 7400 meters. Once that has been accomplished, they'll return to BC before making the final prep for their summit bids.

Finally, we can't leave out Everest itself. Alan Arnette is reporting that snow hit the Big Hill over the weekend, dumping six inches of the white stuff, and prompting teams to stay put in their tents today. Most are eying tomorrow for their next go up the mountain, with some planning on heading up to Camp 3 for their acclimatization rotation.

This is all pretty much standard fare for this point of the season. Up and down the mountain, acclimatize, wait for a weather window, repeat. We're still a couple of weeks out from any real attempts on the Everest summit, but it won't be long now, weather permitting.

NG Adventure Looks At Brewing Miss Oh Controversy

Yesterday I mentioned that Korean climber Oh Eun-Sun had successfully topped out on Annapurna, and in the process had become the first woman to summit all 14 of the 8000 meter peaks. In that same story, I also noted Miss Oh's claim to that title was being disputed and that controversy was already afoot over the whole affair.

The National Geographic Adventure Blog has posted a good article that recaps the story and takes a look at this brewing controversy a bit more closely. It seems that Miss Oh's summit of Kangchenjunga last year is the one that is in dispute, as there are no photos showing the Korean woman at the summit. Instead, the only photographic evidence that is being offered is an image that is well below the top. In her defense, Miss Oh says that weather conditions at the summit made it impossible for her to stay their long enough to take a photo.

The Kangchenjunga climb has especially been called into question by Edurne Pasabán, the talented Spanish climber who needs to just knock off Shisha Pangma to complete her list of 8000 meter peaks, something she expects to do in the next couple of weeks. Edurne says she decided to speak out on the subject after her own climbing record was examined and called into question by South Korean television reporters last week.

As if that wasn't enough to cause a stir, Miss Elizabeth Hawley, who is the definitive expert on all things related to climbing in the Himalaya, has weighted in on the topic as well. She says that there is enough doubt cast on Miss Oh's Kangchenjunga summit to warrant an investigation.

In the end, I suppose the mountaineering community will decide.

Himalaya 2010: Kathmandu Busy, Base Camps Showing Signs of Life

As I mentioned yesterday, the annual descent on Kathmandu has begun, with climbers and trekkers beginning their pilgrimages to the various mountains that have been calling their name over the past few months. Word from KTM is that the city it is busy and bustling at the moment, as our usual cast of adventurers make last minute preparations before heading out to the mountains. \

One team that has been in and out of Kathmandu, and on their mountain of choice, is Edurne Pasaban's Annapurna Squad. For the moment, they remain the only team on the mountain, and have already established themselves up to C2. In fact, the team has been fixing ropes to C3 the past few days, and have been living in Camp 2 since Wednesday, which puts them well along in their acclimatization process. The group is hoping to make an early summit then move over to Tibet to take a stab at Shisha Pangma, grabbing the last two 8000 meter peaks on Edurne's schedule.

ExWeb is reporting that another woman in pursuit of the 8000 meter peaks, Miss Oh Eun-Sun of South Korea, is set to arrive in Annapurna BC this week, after acclimatizing on Tharpu Chuli. Anna is the only mountain left to add to her resume as well.

Meanwhile, the Shared Summits Team is in Nepal and preparing to take on Makalu, the 5th highest peak in the world? The team consists of Chris Warner and Marty Schmidt, who will be attempting a new route on the mountain along the South Face.

The Adventure Dynamics Team is made up of a group of climbers from South Africa who are taking on Everest from the North Side. The team leaves in a little less than a week for Kathmandu, and are in the last minute stages of planning.

Similarly, the Peak Freaks have begun sending updates from their Everest team, with climbers arriving in Kathmandu. The dispatch from today notes that bad weather is once again delaying flights into Lukla and Phablu, another village nearby. Seems like a rocky start to the season, but not unusual for this time of the year, and the mountaineers are in no rush to get to Base Camp at this point anyway.

Hold on to your hats, by next week this time, things will really be getting interesting.

Himalaya 2010: Annapurna Teams Go For C2

The 2010 Himalaya season is probably still another week or two away from really getting started in ernest, but as I mentioned while back, there are already some teams on the ground in Nepal, with more than a few climbers making their way to Annapurna. ExWeb has an update from that region, with the news that Edurne Pasaban and her team are preparing to go to Camp 2 as early as tomorrow.

Edurne and company have been on the mountain since last week, and have already set up BC and Camp 1. Today they are planning to hike back up to C1 and spend the night, then proceed up to Camp 2 tomorrow, where they'll cache their supplies for the climb ahead. The Spanish climber has just Annapurna and Shisha Pangma left on her list of 8000 meter peaks, and she'd love to knock them both off this season. To do that, she'll need to acclimatize now, and get an early summit on Annapurna, before moving over to Shisha once Tibet re-opens to visitors.

Another woman chasing the glory of being the first female to nab all of the 8000 meter peaks is Korean climber Miss Oh Eun-Sun. She has just Annapurna left for herself, and is now in the process of preparing for that mountain. According to ExWeb she is currently acclimatizing on Tharpu Chuli, also known as Tent Peak, and will join her support team next week to begin the trek to base camp. Miss Oh has become such a celebrity back home that her climb will be broadcast on television there, and reportedly there is a crew of 15 following her from the network alone.

Meanwhile, Kinga Baranowska is back in the Himalaya and on her way to Pumori, which will serve as a warm-up for Annapurna. Currently, she and her "Pan-European" team are enjoying a trek through the Khumbu region, and reached Namche Bazaar a few days back. The all-star team of climbers from across Europe include Piotr Pustelnik and Kinga, both from Poland, Horia Colibasanu of Romania, Peter Hamor from Slovakia, Russians Sergey Bogomolov and Evgeny Vinogradskiy and Joao Garcia from Portugal. As you can imagine, all of those nationalities has led to some interesting language barrier issues amongst the team so far, although they do seem to be getting along well.

So, it seems that for now, Annapurna remains the center point of expeditions in the Himalaya. The 26,545 foot mountain may be the 10th highest in the world, but it is one of the most dangerous and difficult to climb. At this stage of the season, I'm sure there is still plenty of snow on the mountain. Hopefully it'll remain safe in the days ahead.

Himalaya Fall 2009: Death on Shisha

It has been a tumultuous fall season in the Himalaya with some great climbs and disappointing results, mostly due to the wildly unpredictable weather that is common in the region this time of year. That weather has forced many teams to go home, but a few intrepid expeditions are still there, and trekking to some of the lesser known peaks as we speak.

There was tragic news a few days back from Shisha Pangma, where Italian climber Roby Piantoni fell while on a particularly tricky section of the climb. His team descended to find his body, and then buried on the mountain, but his family has requested that it be sent home, so today, a ceremony was held for him on the mountain, and operations are underway to recover his remains. Several climbers, include Edurne Pasaban, and her Sherpas, are helping in the recovery, which will entail taking his body back to Nepal via Yak due to a ban on helicopter use in the area. With this sad news, I send my condolences to Roby's friends and family in their time of grief.

Australian Andrew Lock finished up his climb on Shisha awhiel back, and in the process, claimed his final 8000 meter peak. That story has been picked up by the mainstream audience back in his homeland, with the media reporting on the expedition and the challenges to his climb. Andrew has already shared his thoughts on his accomplishment, but if you want to read a different account, check out this story over at the Australian Broadcasting Company's website.

Turning away from that sad news, it appears that the Korean team on Annapurna is getting ready to have a second go at the mountain. Reports seem to indicate that they are on the move and will be heading up over the weekend with an eye on reaching the summit on Tuesday or Wednesday of next week. If successful, Oh Eun-Sun will become the first woman to summit all 14 of the 8000 meter peaks, so stay tuned for updates on that.

The Climb With Us Team, led by Jaime Clarke continues their trek to Pumori. I've been reminded that you can get updates on the expedition not on from the Climb With Us website but also the Live Out There page too. The expedition is an opportunity for the team to field test some new outdoor gear courtesy of Hanesbrands, before they head to Everest in the spring. It'll be a few more days before they reach BC yet, and then things will get really interesting.

Expect further updates from teams in the region in the days ahead, as Field Touring Alpine, Adventure Consultants, Peak Freaks, IMG, and others all have climbers en route to Pumori, Ama Dablam, and more.

Himalaya Fall 2009: Over For Edurne, Miss Oh Ready To Go!

More updates from the Himalaya today with some news on the two ladies who have been vying for their place in history on the 8000 meter peaks.

We'll start on Shisha Pangma, where Edurne Pasaban has announced that her expedition is over and that the team is heading home. She reports that weather forecasts are not good, and that they don't look to improve any time soon, so rather than extend the climbing permit, she'll leave the mountain without a summit for the fourth time. Edurne is one of the top female mountaineers who has been working very hard the past few years to become the first woman to summit all 14 8000 meter peaks. She currently stands at 12, with Shisha frustrating her once again.

Meanwhile, over on Annapurna, Korean climber Oh Eun-Sun is about to take another crack at that mountain. Miss Oh has 13 of the eight-thousanders down, and is hoping to claim the title as first woman to summit them all. The only thing that stands in her way is Annapurna and all of it's very substantial challenges. She hopes to begin another push in the next few days, as a weather window seems imminent.

Pumori continues to be a busy mountain, with teams arriving late in the season to give the 23,494 foot mountain a go. The Peak Freaks have announced that they arrived in BC safely yesterday, and are enjoying a rest today, while they organize camp and take a look at the challenges in front of them.

The Climb With Us team is en route to Pumori as well, and have arrived in Namche where they will spend a day acclimatizing. You can read about their progress and the expedition so far on the latest dispatch from team leader Jamie Clarke, which can be found here.

Other teams are closing in on Ama Dablam, with the IMG team having crossed through Namche a few days back and continuing their trek to BC, while the Field Touring Alpine squad has gathered in Kathmandu and are preparing to depart for the Khumbu region in the next few days.

More to come soon I'm sure. Keep an eye on Annapurna for word on the Korean team and Miss Oh's chance to make history.

Himalaya Fall 2009: Weather Halts Many Climbs

The season appears to be over on a number of big peaks in the Himalaya after high winds and bad weather put an end to a number of climbs over the weekend, sending teams home without reaching the summits of their target mountains.

ExWeb reported yesterday that the Basque Team on Everest have abandoned their attempt on the Hornbein Couloir and are now headed home. The team only had one real shot at the summit along that route, but dangerous avalanches denied them on that occasion, and while they waited for another weather window, it became apparent that it wasn't going to happen.

Meanwhile, the story was a bit different on Shisha Pangama, where on the North Side, Nicholas Rice reported in that they climbed up to C1 on Saturday, only to find that their tents and other equipment they had stashed there. They suspect that it was a Sherpa team with a Chinese squad who have already left the mountain, but aren't positive of that fact. They also suspect that Camps 2 and 3 have been raided, and are disheartened by the fact that they not only had to give up on their summit bid, but have lost thousands of dollars of gear in the process. Two months worth of toil down the drain thanks to another selfish team.

On the South Side of Shisha, Edurne Pasaban and her crew attempted a summit bid over the weekend, but found their camps were missing as well, but for a completely different reason. The high winds swept them off the mountain completely, leaving them with little gear to proceed up. The team is back in BC and looking to borrow gear from some of the teams that are preparing to go home.

Over on Cho Oyu, a similar story is told by the Adventure Consultants, who wanted to make their bid starting on Sunday, but were also turned back due to high winds. With their weather window closed, they're also headed home.

No word from Annapurna as of yet. The Korean team was hoping to wait out the weather and make another go at the summit, hoping to put Miss Oh on top and get her the coveted spot of the first woman to climb all 8000 meter peaks. At this time we don't know if that is still a reality or if the window is closed there as well.

Himalaya Fall 2009: Gearing Up On Pumori and Ama Dablam

There was lots of activity in the Himalaya again this weekend, as weather forecasts are predicting better weather ahead. A number of teams have seized the opportunity to rest up and to move into position to make summit bids in the next few days. Meanwhile, back in Kathmandu, some climbers prepare to go home, while others are just now arriving.

First up, we have news from Apa Sherpa, who I wrote about a few weeks back when it was announced that he would be climbing an unnamed, previously unclimbed peak in Nepal. Fall is an unusual time for Apa to be in the Himalaya, as he makes his home in Salt Lake City these days, but the 19-time Everest summitteer has joined Swiss climber Stephane Schaffter, as well as Pakistani mountaineer Adbul Karim, on this expedition none the less. The latest update from the team says that they have experienced heavy snow fall, like everyone else in the region lately, but they are expecting to launch their summit bid sometime in the next ten days. Stay tuned for more updates soon.

Meanwhile, Andrew Lock has once again updated his blog with the news that he is back in Kathmandu and preparing to go home to Australia. Andrew, who successfully climbed Shisha Pangma, claiming his final 8000 meter peak, discusses the return to the "real world", and says that he is still quite exhausted, but happy to be getting regular warm meals again. He also touches on the end of his quest to climb the world's biggest peaks and thanks his sponsors for helping achieve his goals. What's next for Andrew? He says he has his next climb planned for the spring, but for now we'll have to wait for details.

Things are starting to heat up on Pumori, where the Peak Freaks Team has now had their first blessing from Lama Geshi, which clears the way for the Sherpas to go to work on the mountain. They'll have their Puja Ceremony in BC soon as well, and the climbers will also be allowed to begin their acclimatization process. Follow along with the team through their SPOT Messenger tracking system as they go all the way to the summit.

The Climb With Us Team is also making their way to Pumori and Sara Lingafelter, AKA Rock Climber Girl, is along for the journey and helping report back from the Himalaya. In her latest dispatch, she reports that the team has left Kathmandu and are presently trekking in the Khumbu region, which has definitely left an impression on her, thanks in no small part to the stunning beauty of the mountains.

Finally, the Field Touring Alpine Team began to gather in Kathmandu yesterday, and will be proceeding out to Ama Dablam soon. Several of the climbers are already in the Himalaya and are on one of the numerous trekking routes, already working on their acclimatization no doubt. The rest should depart Kathmandu in the next few days.

That's it for now. We should be hearing more about summit bids in the next few days, with the weather likely being the deciding factor for many teams. Some have been out on their respective mountains for weeks now, and will be forced to give up their climbs should the poor conditions continue.

Himalaya Fall 2009: Details From Andrew and Ueli

Two of the big name climbers in the Himalaya this fall have posted updates to their websites filling us in on the details of their climbs. Both reached the summit of their respective 8000 meter peaks after some struggles along the way.

First up, Andrew Lock has updated his blog with the details on his summit of Shisha Pangma, which happened to be his 14th, and final, 8000 meter mountain. His tale is a good one, and well worth the read, as he lets us in on the scary nature of climbing up to the true summit amidst weather that was getting worse by the minute, and than played havoc with the descent. Harrowing stuff!

The other update comes from Ueli Steck, who is now home, safe and sound, after his climb on Makalu. Ueli had intended to make a solo, alpine style ascent along the West Pillar, but ended up going after the normal route and claiming a successful summit along the way. Ueli is back in Switzerland now, and starting to return to the routine of his normal life, but is also dealing with frostbite and exhaustion. He says that he has never been tested by a mountain like this one before, and that it was only through his strength of will that he actually stood on top. More good stuff.

While these two amazing climbers are safely down and sharing thoughts on their climbs, others are still preparing to make summit bids as the weather begins to shift in the region. ExWeb is reporting all of the weekend plans for teams looking to get into position for early next week, including Edurne Pasaban who is still hoping to become the first woman to join the list of the 8000 meter club.

ExWeb is also reporting that there is no change in status at this time for teams on Annapurna or Everest. On the former, Miss Oh is hoping to get another crack at the summit as well, so she can stake her claim at 8000 meter history, while on Everest, the Basque team is hoping at another shot at the Hornbein Couloir.

Himalaya Fall 2009: Climb With Us Team Leaves For Pumori

While many teams have already packed up and gone home for the season and others are just now finishing up their expeditions, the Climb With Us Team, which is sponsored by Hanesbrands, is just setting off for their climb on Pumori, the 7161 meter (23,494 foot) Himalayan peak located on the border between Nepal and Tibet. The mountain, which is known as "Everest's Daughter" sits just five miles to the west of the Big Hill itself, and is a popular destination for mountaineers looking for a Himalayan climb.

For the Climb With Us team, they'll be making a trial run with the new gear that was recently announced from Hanes, ahead of an Everest climb scheduled to take place next spring. You'll be able to follow along with the expedition, which is led by Jaime Clarke, on the Expeditions Update page, which already has a nice story about Pumori from Stephanie Pearson, who is a contributor to Outside Magazine. Good luck to the whole team!

Meanwhile, ExWeb is reporting in that storms have moved into the region, and that is preventing many teams from moving up their mountains at all. Most climbers are hunkered down in base camp, waiting out the weather and hoping for a window to open soon.

On Annapurna, the Korean team, which includes Oh Eun-Sun, is holding fast for now, despite the fact that the heavy snow has collapsed tents and made life very difficult. Their weather forecasters tell them this storm will hold in place until the Friday at the very least, and after that they'll have to decide if they can make another go at the summit or if they'll come home. Annapurna is notorious for its dangerous avalanches, and this new blanket of snow won't help their cause much. Miss Oh is hoping to become the first woman to nab all of the 8000 meter peaks, and has just this lone mountain to go.

Similar reports are coming in from Cho Oyu, Shisha Pangma, and Dhaulagiri as well. Teams on each mountain say that heavy snows have left them stranded in BC with near arctic conditions raging around them. Of course, if conditions are this bad in the base camps, how bad will they be further up the mountain, where the high camps have already been established? Some teams will no doubt face the task of having to re-establish those camps once the storm clears.

Himalaya Fall 2009: Andrew Lock Claims Last 8000m Peak!

The weekend news from the Himalaya begins with Andrew Lock, who reached the summit of Shisha Pangma last Friday, claiming his final 8000 meter peak, and becoming the the 18th person to summit all 14. The details on the climb are still a bit thin, but judging from his latest dispatch, it sounds like things were a bit treacherous on the descent. Andrew reached the true summit on Shisha, along with Neil Ward, but on their way down they were forced to camp, without gear, at 7600 meters. They did return to BC eventually, but have yet to share the details of their harrowing climb. I sense there is a good story here. Congrats Andrew! Well done.

Also on Shisha Pangma is the Summit Climb Team, which I reported last week were having some drama high on the mountain. One of the members of the team, Bart Dirven, had collapsed on the descent, and was having a difficult time making his way down after a successful climb to the Central Summit. Bart was suffering from exhaustion and altitude sickness, but in their latest update, it was reported that the entire team, including Bar, were down safe and sound. Crisis averted!

Meanwhile, over on Annapurna, the Korean team was turned back this weekend due to bad weather conditions high on the mountain. They are all back in base camp now, and plotting another attempt. ExWeb is reporting that they hope to make their next summit bid sometime next week, with an eye on being on top by October 15th, provided they get a weather window to proceed. This has temporarily put a halt to Oh Eun-Sun's attempt to become the first woman to summit each of the 8000 meter peaks.

Over on Dhaulagiri, we have word that there is an Italian team making an attempt on that mountain. There hasn't been a lot of news from Dhaula this fall, but that doesn't mean it is deserted. The Italians went up as high as C3 over the weekend, but were also forced back down due to inclement weather. They hope to make another attempt, weather permitting, later this week.

Finally, teams are clearing out of the Himalaya and heading home. Alpenglow Expeditions returned to Kathmandu on Saturday, and Field Touring Alpine has already vacated the region, but they still found time to post an excellent trip report from their recent climb on Satopanth.

Clearly, the days are numbered on the Fall Season. Winter is not far off, but there are very few climbs during that season.