Himalaya 2011: More From Kathmandu

As I mentioned yesterday, the 2011 Himalaya season is starting to ramp up quickly with climbers and guides arriving in Kathmandu and putting the final touches on their preparations for the climbs ahead. One of those climbers is Alan Arnette, who will no doubt be posting regular updates throughout his expedition to climb Everest as part of his Seven Summits for Alzheimer's campaign. Alan posted another update from Kathmandu today, offering more insights into what is happening there and what we can expect in the weeks ahead.

Aside from setting the scene about how noisy and chaotic Kathmandu can be this time of year, or any time of year for that matter, Alan says that the weather in the region has improved, which means flights will resume to Lukla today. That's important for the climbers heading to the Khumbu region, in particular those going to Everest, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, and other peaks in that area. The IMG team that Alan is climbing with is scheduled to leave for Lukla on Thursday, when they'll also begin their trek to Base Camp. Other teams were already hoping to get out of KTM yesterday, so expected a bottleneck of travelers over the next few days, as everyone struggles to get out on the trail.

Alan also noted that he bumped into Russell Brice, owner of Himalayan Experience, better known as Himex, in the lobby of his hotel, and also had lunch with Phil Crampton of the Altitude Junkies. Both indicated that the number of climbers on Everest could be down as much as 25% this year thanks to the ongoing issues with the global economy and a rise in prices to climb the mountain. Back in 2009, there were more than 500 people who reached the summit of Everest, but it seems that this year we won't even come close to those kinds of numbers. That's probably a good thing, as it will reduce the crowds on Summit Day and may make for a safer climb in general.

Over the next week or so, most of the teams will be consumed with getting out of Kathmandu and making the trek to Base Camp. While that trek is a walk in the park compared to what lies ahead for them, it is still an important part of the acclimatization process that will prepare them to go higher on the mountain. It is also quite a great hike with some amazing views. On the North Side of Everest, in Tibet, the climbers will actually drive to BC. It isn't the same experience, and they deal with the acclimatization a bit differently, but there will be teams headed that direction soon too.

Helicopter Crashes On Ama Dablam

Both ExWeb and Alan Arnette are reporting that a helicopter crashed on Ama Dablam this weekend, killing the pilot and crew member on board at the time. The rescue vehicle was attempting to rescue two stranded Japanese climbers at the time.

According to the reports, the aircraft was making a second trip to the mountain from Lukla when it suddenly, and dramatically, fell out of the sky. It is unclear at this time as to the cause of the crash, but ExWeb quotes local civil aviation authorities as saying they believe that high winds in the region played a part in the crash.

Also unclear is the status of the two stranded climbers. In his post on the subject, Alan says there are conflicting reports that say that one or both of the climbers were retrieved safely before the helicopter went down, but at this time, there exact status is unclear.

The helicopter was operated by Fishtale Air, and was flown by Sabin Basnet, with engineer, Purna Awale serving as the crew. These two men are a significant loss to the search and rescue teams in the Khumbu region, as it was Basnet who flew to Camp 2 on Everest this past spring to make a rescue at 6400 meters (21,000 ft), something that had never been accomplished before. Alan also points out that Basnet had more than 4500 hours of flight time, making him one of the more experienced pilots in the Himalaya. This is a tough loss for Fishtale, which operates five helicopters in the area, making regular shuttle runs and rescue operations.

My condolences to the families of both men.

Himalaya Fall 2010: Solo Summit Bid On Lhotse

There was a lot of news from the adventure community while I was mostly out of contact last week. I'm regrouping and getting back to my schedule now, so expect the usual updates to resume. Bear with me while I work to get everything sorted out and report what's happening!

Of course the big story last week, which I did find time to post updates on, was Eric Larsen's successful completion of the Save the Poles Expedition. Eric reached the summit of Everest, which brought to an end his amazing journey that began last November when he set out for the South Pole. He would reach that point in early January of this year and then later went on to the North Pole in April. That left just Everest, which is sometimes called the "Third Pole" on his to do list for 2010. Last week he checked the mountain off his list as well, as he and his Sherpa guides became the only team to reach the top during the fall season. By doing so, Eric became the first person to visit all three poles in a single calendar year. Pretty impressive to say the least.

Eric has been posting updates on his blog, including the story of his successful summit bid. As of yesterday, he was making his way back down the Khumbu Valley and had reached the town of Pheriche. That means he's likely to be into Namche Bazaar today, and back in Kathmandu by Thursday or Friday, depending on weather and flights. I'm sure he's enjoying the walk back down, but it has to be a bit bittersweet as well. Again, congratulations to Eric on accomplishing his mission.

While Everest may have fallen silent until the spring, its neighbor, Lhotse, still has a few climbers attempting the summit, including Marty Schmidt who set off on a solo summit push on Sunday with the hopes of topping out tomorrow, weather permitting. If successful, this will be Marty's fourth 8000 meter peak this year having already knocked off Makalu and both the Gasherbrums earlier.

ExWeb posted an update yesterday with news on a host of summits across the Himalaya, including news from Shisha Pangma, Manaslu, Ama Dablam and more. It seems that the season is rapidly coming to a close, and it has been a bit of a mixed bag. Weather hounded teams on all of the big peaks, but that didn't stop some of the more adventurous climbers from reaching their goals. Now, we'll start to look toward the spring, when the region will get very busy once again.

[Photo Credit: Eric Larsen]

Sporadic Posting This Week

Just wanted to let my regular readers know that I'll be making sporadic, and most likely light, postings this week as I'm out of town for an annual convention with my day job. Hopefully I'll still find some time to add a few stories, but if not, bear with me and I'll be back to the regular schedule and frequency next week.

For your troubles, here's a photo of Ama Dablam to enjoy in the meantime! ;)

The Rest of Everest Episode 123: Tengboche

Wednesday is "Trek Everest Day" it seems, as we have another episode of The Rest of Everest to enjoy as well. This fourth season of the show is focused on an Everest Base Camp trek that took place this past spring, and continues to offer us some great insights into what it is like to make this journey.

Today we have Episode 123: Tengboche, which begins with video of the support team breaking camp for the trekkers, who were preparing to hit the trail, but not before visiting the vibrant and colorful local monastery first. Fortunately for us, we get to tag along for the ride, as the group paid a "special fee" to allow them to shoot photos and video inside the building.

While inside the monastery, the group gets an explanation of the Tibetan Wheel of Life, with one of the guides explaining its concepts in front of a beautifully painted representation of that important aspect to Buddhist beliefs. In short, the Wheel is a representation of the stages of life (birth, life, death) that we all pass through, while incorporating karmic influences in our actions and their impact on ourselves.

Leaving the monastery behind, the crew hits the trail once again, and for the later portions of this episode, we get to see more of the Himalayan countryside. As has been typical in recent episodes, show producer Jon Miller is joined by several members of the trek, and they each weigh in through out the show with their thoughts on the trek, and its impact on them as the went.

Keep an eye out for a great shot of the 22,349 foot peak Ama Dablam, which makes an appearance near the end of this episode as well.

Himalaya Fall 2009: Summits!!

It appears as if the Fall Himalaya Season for 2009 is rapidly coming to an end, with teams reporting successful summits on a variety of mountains, while others prepare to go home empty handed.

Field Touring Alpine has an update on their blog stating that their team has reached the top of Island Peak yesterday, with six climbers topping out on the 6186 meter mountain. All of them have also successfully returned to base camp, where they got some much needed rest and celebrated their success. Today, they left the mountain, heading back to Dingboche. The team isn't done yet however, as they intend to head to Pumori next for a little more action.

The IMG blog has also been updated with news of their success, although they were climbing on Ama Dablam. Their summit also occurred yesterday, with the team setting out from C2 at 4 AM and proceeding up to the top by 10 AM. They then made the descent all the way back to BC, ending their day at 8:30 PM. Whew! What a long day. On a good note, the guides report that the route to the summit is in good shape and the stage is set for others to go up too.

The word is not so positive from Pumori, where the Peak Freaks are packing it in after an attempt on the summit that was halted when they came across a large ice shelf high on the mountain. After testing it for stability, they determined that it may or may not be safe, and the "may not" part was enough for them to call of their bid and head back to BC. The team is happy with what the accomplished this year, but weren't willing to go further and put themselves at risks, so as of today, they are preparing to pack up and go home.

They weren't the only team to call it a day, as the Climb With Us Team is also coming home. An audio update on their site says that despite great weather conditions over the past few weeks, the ice found on the upper peaks, formed from the melting of snow during the day, and the re-freezing at night, has caused them to also call off their expedition. They are also happy with what they accomplished, but a bit disappointed that they won't stand on top of the mountain. They'll be back in the Himalaya next spring however, with their eyes on Everest, and an even bigger prize.

Himalaya Fall 2009: Summit Bids Begin on Ama Dablam

I'm jumping back into my blogging duties, as I get back to my normal schedule at last, and I'll start things off by getting caught up on the ongoing events in the Himalaya, where teams are setting the stage for summit bids on Ama Dablam, Pumori, and more.

The IMG Team has updated their blog this morning with news that the climbers have reached Camp 2, and are now in a position to make the push to the summit tomorrow, skipping their stay in C3 altogether. They say the weather remains good, and the conditions on the mountain are excellent as well, but they are making one final alpine style push because of falling ice at Camp 3 in the past. Stay tuned for updates tomorrow, as it looks like they'll be topping out.

Field Touring Alpine has updated their blog as well, reporting that their team arrived on Ama Dablam Base Camp late last week, with the team heading over to Island Peak to make an acclimatization climb. Everyone is reportedly in good spirits, although they have suffered a few bouts of GI, as has been known to happen when traveling in a foreign country, especially at altitude. Look for more updates from FTA soon with news on their progress as well.

The Adventure Consultants are also on Island Peak, and today's dispatch says that they are continuing their trek through the Khumbu, which helps serve as an acclimatization exercise as well. A number of the members of the team are planning on heading up to Everest BC today, which makes for a scenic trek, but they'll find it deserted when they arrive, as it has been a quiet place this Fall.

Switching mountains, we'll jump over to Pumori next, where the Peak Freaks are reporting that lead climber Tim Rippel was hit by a large chunk of ice last night while sleeping in his tent. The ice managed to break several of Tim's ribs, and while the team has elected to carry on, he won't be joining them as they go up the mountain. He has instead been replaced by Norwegian climber Lars Haugen, who will lead the team up to C2 today. They are currently looking to reach the summit as early as tomorrow. Check out the Peak Freaks video below for more information on the mountain and the climb. Good stuff.

Finally, The Peak Freaks aren't the only team on Pumori of course, as the Climb With Us Team continues their efforts as well. The latest news from that bunch includes a blog post by Rock Climber Girl Sara Lingafelter, who gives a personal account of her own issues with dealing with altitude. Unfortunately for her, the altitude caused her to have to back down the mountain and recover from some AMS symptoms. She has since rejoined her team, which is currently in in ABC, and will be heading up to C1 tomorrow. From there, they'll wait to see what the weather conditions look like before beginning their own assault on the summit.

Himalaya Fall 2009: Koreans Call It Quits On Annapurna

More news from the HImalaya, where it appears that we will continue to wait for the first woman to join the ranks of men who have topped out on all of the 8000 meter peaks, as the Korean team on Annapurna, which includes Oh Eun-Sun, have called off their summit bid, and are now preparing to go home.

ExWeb is reporting that the team got as high as Camp 3 over the weekend, but high winds prevented them from going any higher. They have now returned to Base Camp, and are preparing to depart for the season. They will have another go at the mountain in the Spring of 2010, when Miss Oh will try once again to become the first woman to nab all 14 eight-thousanders. Due to it's high level of danger due to avalanches, Annapurna is not a mountain to attempt during the winter.

Now, the expeditions to the big peaks seem to be over for the season, and the action will heat up on some of the other challenging, but lesser mountains. The Field Touring Alpine Team reached Namche Bazaar over the weekend where they took the usual break and spent some time acclimatizing. They'll now continue on to Ama Dablam this week.

Meanwhile, the Climb With Us team is now in Pumori Base Camp, and according to their latest updates, they will begin shuttling gear up to ABC tomorrow, where they'll begin carving their tent platforms and start the early stages of acclimatization. The team had its Puja Ceremony earlier today and now have the blessings of Lama Tashi Stundu to begin their climb.

Watch for more updates later this week as more teams arrive on Pumori and Ama Dablam and begin their climbs as well.

Himalaya Fall 2009: Over For Edurne, Miss Oh Ready To Go!

More updates from the Himalaya today with some news on the two ladies who have been vying for their place in history on the 8000 meter peaks.

We'll start on Shisha Pangma, where Edurne Pasaban has announced that her expedition is over and that the team is heading home. She reports that weather forecasts are not good, and that they don't look to improve any time soon, so rather than extend the climbing permit, she'll leave the mountain without a summit for the fourth time. Edurne is one of the top female mountaineers who has been working very hard the past few years to become the first woman to summit all 14 8000 meter peaks. She currently stands at 12, with Shisha frustrating her once again.

Meanwhile, over on Annapurna, Korean climber Oh Eun-Sun is about to take another crack at that mountain. Miss Oh has 13 of the eight-thousanders down, and is hoping to claim the title as first woman to summit them all. The only thing that stands in her way is Annapurna and all of it's very substantial challenges. She hopes to begin another push in the next few days, as a weather window seems imminent.

Pumori continues to be a busy mountain, with teams arriving late in the season to give the 23,494 foot mountain a go. The Peak Freaks have announced that they arrived in BC safely yesterday, and are enjoying a rest today, while they organize camp and take a look at the challenges in front of them.

The Climb With Us team is en route to Pumori as well, and have arrived in Namche where they will spend a day acclimatizing. You can read about their progress and the expedition so far on the latest dispatch from team leader Jamie Clarke, which can be found here.

Other teams are closing in on Ama Dablam, with the IMG team having crossed through Namche a few days back and continuing their trek to BC, while the Field Touring Alpine squad has gathered in Kathmandu and are preparing to depart for the Khumbu region in the next few days.

More to come soon I'm sure. Keep an eye on Annapurna for word on the Korean team and Miss Oh's chance to make history.

Himalaya Fall 2009: Gearing Up On Pumori and Ama Dablam

There was lots of activity in the Himalaya again this weekend, as weather forecasts are predicting better weather ahead. A number of teams have seized the opportunity to rest up and to move into position to make summit bids in the next few days. Meanwhile, back in Kathmandu, some climbers prepare to go home, while others are just now arriving.

First up, we have news from Apa Sherpa, who I wrote about a few weeks back when it was announced that he would be climbing an unnamed, previously unclimbed peak in Nepal. Fall is an unusual time for Apa to be in the Himalaya, as he makes his home in Salt Lake City these days, but the 19-time Everest summitteer has joined Swiss climber Stephane Schaffter, as well as Pakistani mountaineer Adbul Karim, on this expedition none the less. The latest update from the team says that they have experienced heavy snow fall, like everyone else in the region lately, but they are expecting to launch their summit bid sometime in the next ten days. Stay tuned for more updates soon.

Meanwhile, Andrew Lock has once again updated his blog with the news that he is back in Kathmandu and preparing to go home to Australia. Andrew, who successfully climbed Shisha Pangma, claiming his final 8000 meter peak, discusses the return to the "real world", and says that he is still quite exhausted, but happy to be getting regular warm meals again. He also touches on the end of his quest to climb the world's biggest peaks and thanks his sponsors for helping achieve his goals. What's next for Andrew? He says he has his next climb planned for the spring, but for now we'll have to wait for details.

Things are starting to heat up on Pumori, where the Peak Freaks Team has now had their first blessing from Lama Geshi, which clears the way for the Sherpas to go to work on the mountain. They'll have their Puja Ceremony in BC soon as well, and the climbers will also be allowed to begin their acclimatization process. Follow along with the team through their SPOT Messenger tracking system as they go all the way to the summit.

The Climb With Us Team is also making their way to Pumori and Sara Lingafelter, AKA Rock Climber Girl, is along for the journey and helping report back from the Himalaya. In her latest dispatch, she reports that the team has left Kathmandu and are presently trekking in the Khumbu region, which has definitely left an impression on her, thanks in no small part to the stunning beauty of the mountains.

Finally, the Field Touring Alpine Team began to gather in Kathmandu yesterday, and will be proceeding out to Ama Dablam soon. Several of the climbers are already in the Himalaya and are on one of the numerous trekking routes, already working on their acclimatization no doubt. The rest should depart Kathmandu in the next few days.

That's it for now. We should be hearing more about summit bids in the next few days, with the weather likely being the deciding factor for many teams. Some have been out on their respective mountains for weeks now, and will be forced to give up their climbs should the poor conditions continue.

Getting To Know Ama Dablam and Pumori, the "Other" Himalayan Peaks!

Alan Arnette has a good story today on what he calls the "other" Himalaya climbs, in which he turns the spotlight on both Ama Dablam and Pumori, two popular climbing destinations in the region.

Both mountains fall below the legendary 8000 meter peak line, which keeps them a bit below the radar, despite the fact that they are both demanding climbs in their own right. Ama Dablam stands 6848 meters (22467 feet) in height, while Pumori tops out at 7161 meters (23494 feet). The two mountains are located completely within Nepal, meaning they haven't been subjected to China's closing of Tibet in recent years. They are also popular fall climbs as well, with mountaineers looking to tackle Everest or one of the other big peaks in the spring.

Alan points out that there are a number of teams on both Pumori and Ama Dablam at the moment. For instance, the Peak Freaks have a team on Pumori and it also the target peak for the Climb With Us Team as well. Ama Dablam is hosting teams from IMG, Field Touring Alpine, and Adventure Consultants as well.

Sometimes it is very easy to get caught up in the what is happening on Everest and the other 8000 meter peaks, and you tend to forget that there are plenty of other amazing, challenging, and beautiful mountains in the Himalaya. Thanks to Alan for reminding us that there are "other" peaks out there that are deserving of respect and attention.

Himalaya Update: Fall Climbs Done, Bring On The Winter!

ExWeb has a good update today on the impending winter season in the Himalaya. The mention that the fall season came to an end this past weekend, when the Jagged Globe Team topped out on Ama Dablam, putting seven climbers on the summit.

The Field Touring Team also sent out a fresh dispatch to alert us that their team completed a rare climb on the Central Summit of Lobuche, bringing an end to their Himalayan Hat Trick that included Island Peak and Ama Dablam as well. The team is now back in Kathmandu and working on getting home, which hasn't been easy considering the recent disruptions of traffic in Thailand.

With these climbs finished up, things grow quiet in Nepal for now. There are a few planned Himalaya expeditions for the winter, such as Czechoslovakian team going after a winter climb on Manaslu, and of course Simone Moro and Denis Urubko's assault on Makalu in alpine style. Makalu remains the only Himalayan 8-thousander to go unclimbed in winter.

Over in the Karakorum, Artur Hajzer, Robert Szymczak and Don Bowie are prepping for their attempt on Broad Peak, and a Polish Team will give Nanga Parbet a go. Traditionally speaking, the Karakorum has made for incredibly tough winter climbs and Broad Peak would be the first 8000m mountain to be summitted in winter in that mountain range.

Himalaya Update: Summits on Ama Dablam!

It was a busy weekend for the Field Touring Alpine Team who managed to put six climbers on the summit of Ama Dablam on Saturday, amidst windy, but otherwise good, climbing conditions. The team will now move on to Lobuche to attempt a "Himalayan Trilogy" that includes Island Peak, the mountain the team used for acclimatization last week. Lobuche is a 6119m (20,075 feet) mountain in the same region.

The latest dispatch from the Mountain Madness Team is from last week, where they report a summit bid on Thursday, but were turned back 1200 feet from their goal thanks to poor weather, including high winds. The dispatch makes it seem like they gave it all on that push and were intending to head home afterwards, but there is no information about whether or not they did indeed leave BC following the attempt or gave it another go over the weekend as well.

Meanwhile, ExWeb is reporting in their Monday Himalaya Wrap-Up that Japanese climbers Kazuya Hiraide and Kei Taniguchi have opened a new route in the Garhwal Himalaya on Mount Kamet, the second highest peak in the region at 7756m.

Apparently, the route was completed two months ago, and includes difficulties up to A5 on ice, and M5+ on mixed terrain. The route now bears the name "The Samurai Direct", and is said to be over 1800m in length. Hiraide and Taniguchi spent a month scouting the face and acclimatizing before going up in alpine style over a seven day period.

The Garhwal Himalaya region is found in northeast India, where that country meets Nepal and Tibet. Although it doesn't get as much attention as some of the more high profile climbing regions, the Garhwal HImalaya does contain more than 100 peaks of more than 20,000 feet in height, with Nanda Devi being the most prominent amongst them.

Himalaya Update: All Eyes on Ama Dablam

While the rest of the Himalaya has gone silent, Ama Dablam remains active with at least three teams currently on the mountain. ExWeb brings us an update today.

Probably the biggest news from Ama Dablam is that the Mountain Madness Team was set to make a summit bid yesterday, after reaching Camp 2 on Tuesday. There have been no updates yet to their blog, but if all went according to plan, they likely made an attempt on the 6812 meter (22,349 foot) summit today. Provided the weather has held out for them and the conditions were right, we may hear an update with news of summits, as early as tomorrow.

Meanwhile, the Field Touring Alpine Team has arrived at the mountain following a successful acclimatization climb on Island Peak. That climb didn't go without incident, as it seems it was rather crowded with trekkers, who were long on ego and short on experience according to team leader Chris Szymiec. Apparently at one point, one of the FTA climbers was rappelling on a rope when someone higher up the mountain decided it was time to release the fixed line they were on at the time. Fortunately no one was hurt, and everyone got down safe and sound. Now, they're set to go after the real prize.

Finally, the Jagged Globe Team also remains on Ama, having arrived earlier in the week. They are acclimatizing and preparing for their assault as well, although there is no time table yet for when they'll make their summit bid.

Good luck everyone!

Himalaya Update: News From Ama Dablam and a Look Ahead

ExWeb has another updated from the Himalaya today, with news of late season climbers on Ama Dablam, and a look to the spring on Everest.


Exprlorer's Web is calling the fall season "virtually closed", but no one has bothered to tell that to the Field Touring Alpine or the Jagged Globe teams, who are both preparing for late season climbs on Ama Dablam. The FTA climbers are currently on Island Peak, a 6189 meter (20,305 feet) mountain that makes for a good acclimatization trek as it requires no real technical mountaineering experience. The Jagged Globe climbers, meanwhile, are still making their way to base camp, and expect to arrive soon. The two teams will have the mountain all to themselves.

Perhaps more of interest however, is the glimpse ahead to the spring, when hundreds of climbers will turn their sights on Everest. Outfitters and guides are starting to make plans for 2009, and most of them exclude Tibet from the picture. Rumors have been circulating for some time that China would once again close the North Side of the mountain, and as such, it would appear that the South will be quite busy again.

The article notes that expeditions from both the Altitude Junkies and Project Himalaya are already planning the logistics of a climb from Nepal, as will the Peak Freaks, Adventure Consultants, and most of the other big guide companies. They all cite vague permitting requirements from China, and a lack of a consistent message on plans for the spring.

For their part, the Chinese have hinted that they may close the mountain for another season in order to clean up base camp and the North Face. You'll recall that they closed town the Tibetan side of Everest earlier this year in order for the Chinese Torch Team to carry the Olympic Torch to the summit. At the time, the entire country of Tibet was also off limits to foreigners due to protests that were taking place there as well.

Caring for the environment has never been big on China's agenda, but it seems that in the case of Everest, they want to make an exception. If they take this year off once again to clean up the mountain, then that is a good thing, and they should be commended for it. However, they'll also need to tightly regulate Everest in the future to prevent it from returning to the same state again. Meanwhile, the economy of Tibet suffers, Nepal gets a boost, and climbers on the South Side can expect delays, long lines, and crowded camps.

But look on the bright side! At least this year they'll probably be able to use their digital cameras, sat phones, and video cams while on the mountain!

Himalaya Update: More Summits on Ama Dablam

Every time I'm about to nail the lid shut on the fall Himalaya season, another report on successful summits from the region comes pouring in. Today we have two such accounts.

First up, ExWeb is reporting that the Field Touring Alpine Team has reached base camp on Ama Dablam on Monday (Nov. 10th) and are preparing to make their assault on the mountain in a late season attempt. Their latest dispatches say that three Polish climbers topped out on the mountain on the day that the FTA team arrived, and that the Sherpas who assisted in that climb report that conditions are great on the route up. So, while the Poles have finished their successful climb, and will soon be headed home, the FTA team is just getting started.

ExWeb also has some notes on Steve House's last dispatch from Makalu that I mentioned yesterday. You'll recall that Steve, and his climbing partners, abandoned their attempts on Makalu's West Face, but he elected to make a solo attempt, which was ultimately unsuccessful due to bad weather above 6500m.

Meanwhile, Everest News has posted this climbing report from Tunc Findik who, along with Dawa Sherpa, made a successful summit on Baruntse, a 7129m peak in Eastern Nepal. Tunc gives details on their climb, which involved he and Dawa going up in Alpine style in one long continuous push. Great work guys! Congrats on the summit!

At the risk of once again calling a pre-mature end to the season, it does look like these reports will wane dramatically now. We'll probably hear a few things from the FTA team on Ama Dablam, but for the most part, it's getting quiet in the region. It should be interesting to see if anyone shows up to make a winter ascent on any of the big mountains though. An 8000m peak in the spring and fall sounds cold enough. Winter just seems to be pushing it.

Himalaya Update: Final Words From Makalu

It's all but over for the Fall climbing season in the Himalaya, with final dispatches coming in now, and more information about a few rumors we've been hearing for the past few weeks.

First up, The Cleanest Line, the official blog of gear company Patagonia, has the final audio dispatch from Steve House today, who has been climbing Makalu along with partners Vince Anderson and Marko Prezelj. When last we heard from the team, they were turned back on a new route along the West Face due to high winds. After that attempt however, Steve made another go at the mountain, this time a solo climb on November 4th. He managed to climb above 6500m (21,325 feet), amidst calm conditions, but once he got above that point, the winds picked up again, with snow and ice flying everywhere, forcing him to abandon the climb once again, and return to base camp.

Steve also notes on this call that yesterday he and the team spent their first night below 10,000 feet in 43 days! He notes how well they all slept and how good they feel now that they are back to a more manageable altitude. He also seems to appreciate the much improved weather as well.

ExWeb also has updates from the Himalaya today too, reporting that the Altitude Junkies have given up on their attempts to summit Kang Guru, and are scheduled to leave BC today. High winds throughout last week prevented any serious attempts on the summit, although a few of the climbers gave it a go on Friday and Saturday, getting as high as 6400 meters. Conditions above that were just not stable enough to continue however, and in the end, they simply ran out of time.

We have more details on the rescue on Pumori that I mentioned last week, in which American guide Fabrizio Zangrilli helped bring French climber Corinne Favre down the mountain. Fabrizio reports that Corinne was hit by a "very large chunk of ice the size of an armchair" and was knocked unconscious. He then proceeded to carry her down the mountain for 4 hours before other climbers and sherpas could come to their aid. Corinne is reportedly still in a hospital in Kathmandu, recovering from multiple chest fractures, and is said to be improving, although not completely out of the woods yet.

It's sad news from Ama Dablam, as the Field Touring Alpine Team has confirmed that on November 4th, shortly after summitting the mountain, climber Wei Cui fell while rappelling down the Grey Tower, and died as a result of his injuries. He reportedly fell more than 500 meters (1640 feet), and an attempt to bring his body down will begin in a few days.

Finally, it seems that the traffic jam at the Lukla airport is finally over. The weather there has cleared, allowing for more frequent flights, shuttling the climbers and trekkers back to Kathmandu and their flights home. Things will likely quiet down there now until the Spring, when a whole new crowd will appear.

Himalaya Update: Photos From Ama Dablam

Wednesday brings us another update from ExWeb on all the happenings in the Himalaya, with photos from the summit of Ama Dablam, news of a thwarted attempt on Kang Guru and trouble on Pumori as well.

The combined team of the Altitude Junkies and Project Himalaya made a summit push on Kang Guru on Monday, but were ultimately pushed back due to high winds and inclement weather. The latest updates had the team in C3 after a rough climb up from C2 on Monday, with the plan to set out at midnight for the top of the mountain. The 12 members of the team (6 climbers, 5 Sherpas, and guide leader Phil Crampton) were forced back to base camp yesterday however, as the beautiful weather window they were experiencing quickly closed, and snow hit the area for the first time. They're not done just yet though, and they are prepared to wait for another window to open soon.

Teams on Ama Dablam were much luckier, having completed their climb successfully and are now packing up to go home. Adventure Consultants posted a story today with some photos and news that they are preparing to leave BC in tomorrow. The image with this post is of one of my favorite "camping sites" on Ama Dablam. That's Camp 2 on the montain. Mean while the AlpenGlow team is already hiking down the Khumbu and are reportedly in Namche Bazaar.

Finally, we have bad news from Pumori where French and Nepali climbers have fallen. The two are still alive, but in critical condition, and it is being reported that the French climber, Corinne Favre, suffered a number of fractures and pulmonary issues. ExWeb says she was unconscious when the rescue helicopter arrived yesterday, and is said to be resting in a Kathmandu hospital today. There is no word on her Sherpa guide as of yet. Apparently the two were climbing the mountain on Sunday when a large serac gave way and swept them down the mountain. They were later found by other climbers at 5700m and helped down to Gorak Shep for treatment.

Pumori is legendary for it's deadly avalanches. Lets keep our fingers crossed that the mountain doesn't claim two more victims.

Himalaya Update: Still Going On Makalu

While the Himalayan season continues to wind down, and the focus shifts to the Antarctic, ExWeb is still continuing their updates from the mountains, with word on summits on Ama Dablam, fierce winds on Makalu, and more.

Starting on Makalu, Steve House, Vince Anderson, and Marko Prezelj are reporting, via the Official Patagonia Blog, The Cleanest Line, that they have returned to BC after experiencing poor weather on the mountain's West Face. The trio are attempting a new route on Makalu, and so far the conditions have not cooperated with them. They report flying rock and ice along the wall, which made the decision to go down much easier to make. Unfortunately, their climbing permit will be running out soon, but they have not ruled out the option of extending the permit if weather conditions look to improve.

The news is much better on Ama Dablam, where over the weekend IMG, AlpenGlow, and Adventure Consultants all report successful summit bids on the 22,349 foot mountain. There are rumors, according to ExWeb, of an accident however, although nothing has been confirmed as of yet. Lets keep our fingers crossed that everyone is safe, and offer the climbers a congratulations on a job well done.

On Kang Guru, the Altitude Junkies are about to make their summit bid as well, and look to make their move over the next few days. The current plan is to skip C1 and proceed directly to C2, with C3 the destination for day 2, and summit day coming on day 3. The little climbed Kang Guru is a 22,904 foot peak located in central Nepal, not far from Annapurna, in the Manang region.

Finally, it what has become a common report it seems, the Peak Freaks Team on Pumori is reporting that another team there left a lot of trash in base camp, forcing them to conduct clean-up operations. The team says they know exactly which team it was, and that their name is on some of the garbage, and recommends that that team reimburse them for their expenses in that clean-up or face having the evidence turned over to the authorities. We've heard a number of reports about how trashed some of the base camps have been this season, and it's a shame that this is such an issue. Lets hope it's a trend that doesn't continue.

Himalaya Update: Alpine Style Summit Attempt on Makalu Begins!

More news from the Himalaya today, courtesy of ExWeb and other sources.

The biggest news is on Makalu where we're told that Steve House, Vince Anderson, and Marko Prezelj are acclimatized, rested, and ready to begin their alpine style assault on the summit. Weather conditions remained poor yesterday, but are expected to improve over the next few days, and the team scheduled to leave BC tomorrow, and begin their single-push attempt on the summit. They'll likely be ready to leave base camp behind, if their story about the amount of trash and refuse their is to be believed.

On Ama Dablam, teams are preparing for their own summit bids, with reports indicating that the trail up to C3 is in adequate condition. Above C2 there is more snow than usual, but the climb is manageable. IMG Sherpas are expected to repair lines up to C2 today, and begin fixing lines above C3 tomorrow. The latest updates indicate that avalanches at C3 have damaged the tents there, but it can be rebuilt fairly easily. The Alpenglow Expedition has joined IMG and the two teams will work jointly on fixing the lines, as they work together on a new route up the mountain.

The latest news from Fredrik Ericsson on Kangchenjunga isn't as promising however, as he reports that he and Jörgen Aamot have returned to BC when conditions on the mountain became too dangerous. It seems that the 50 cm (roughly 20 inches) of new snow made things quite unstable at altitude. The latest dispatch promises more news tomorrow, so hopefully that update will include plans on their next summit attempt. Fredrick and Jörgen are attempting to become the first men to make a complete ski descent of the Kangchenjunga, the third highest mountain on Earth.

Finally, a hearty congratulations to the Amical Team. On October 23rd, the team put nine climbers, including two Sherpas, on the summit of Baruntse in what has been described as "bitterly cold" conditions. The summitters included: Germans Rainer Picher, Thorsten Aurisch, Werner Göring and Eberhard Tenbusch; Austrians Andreas Gschwendtner and Christian Lutz; Ralf Wohlwend from Lichtenstein, and Nepalese Kharma Gelchen Sherpa and Mingma Tenjee Sherpa.