Showing posts with label Denali. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Denali. Show all posts
Tuesday, May 17, 2011
Four Climbers Injured, One Dead on Denali
While most of our attention has been drawn to the Himalaya over the past few weeks, some daring climbers have been making spring attempts on Denali. One of those climbs went bad last week, leaving one climber dead and four others injured on the West Buttress of the mountain.
According to this story at the Alpinist, six climbers set off for their final summit push on the 6196 meter (20,327 ft) Denali on May 11th. They began the day at High Camp, located at 5242 meters (17,200 ft), in conditions that were said to be excellent, although high winds were in the forecast for later in the day. One member of the group elected to stay in camp due to the forecast, while Tony Diskin, Jeremiah O'Sullivan, Beat Niederer and Lawrence Cutler, along with their two guides Dave Staeheli and Henry Munter, headed for the summit.
Part way up the mountain, Diskin turned back. Suffering from frostbite on his fingers, he was assisted down the mountain by Munter. When the pair arrived at High Camp, they gathered up the climber there, and moved further down the mountain. Meanwhile, the others continued to go higher, eventually reaching the summit late in the afternoon. On their descent, O'Sullivan tripped and fell, dragging his teammates, who were all roped in, down the glacier for about 300 feet. He broke his leg in the fall, and the report says that Niederer also dislocated a shoulder and that Staeheli broke a rib.
With the team in bad shape, Staeheli attempted to call for help, but was unable to get a radio signal and the satellite phone was damaged in the fall. The guide sent Niederer and Cutler, who was uninjured, down the mountain to seek help, while he attempted to drag O'Sullivan in a bivy sack, giving up after just a few hundred feet.
At about this time, the winds began to pick up and temperatures began to drop, so Staeheli made the decision to go down to High Camp with Niederer and Cutler to try to organize a rescue, leaving O'Sullivan on the mountain above 19,000 feet. They stumbled down the mountain, and at one point, Staeheli and Cutler became separated from Niederer, who went missing somewhere on the descent. Stumbling into High Camp, the guide and his lone remaining client, were aided by another team that has also gone up to the summit that morning.
The weather took a turn for the worse and a rescue wasn't possible until the following day. Helicopters were able to go up the mountain, where they pulled both O'Sullivan and Niederer off the high slopes of Denali. O'Sullivan was alive, but need immediate attention, while Niederer showed no signs of life at all, and was later declared dead. At this time, the cause of his death is not known.
For the full story, be sure to read the account by the Alpinist. It is a sad tale, with a set of circumstances that put the guides and other climbers into a bad position. It was almost as if things were going to turn sour no matter which decision they made. This will no doubt be one of those mountaineering stories that are debated for a long time.
My condolences to Niederer's friends and family for their loss.
Wednesday, April 6, 2011
Winter On Denali: Video Brings Challenges Home
Back in February, Christine Feret and Artur Testov made a bold attempt to summit Denali in winter. The 6196 meter (20,327ft) mountain, located in the heart of Alaska's wilderness, is a challenging climb in the best of conditions, but in the winter the weather adds an entirely new dimension.
Obviously, most of us will never get an opportunity to get anywhere close to the mountain during the winter, which is why the video below is such a good one. It shows the conditions that Christine and Artur had to deal with on their expedition, including poor weather, sub-zero temperatures, and tons of snow.
Oh! And if you've ever wondered what it looks like inside a snow cave, than this video is for you. The duo stayed in snow caves the entire time, and there are several portions of the video that capture that experience. (Warning: This video may make you say "Brrrr!")`
Tuesday, March 1, 2011
Denali Winter Ascent: Weather Thwarts Climb
After having limited Internet access for the past day and a half, I'm finally getting back online and starting to get caught up on everything that has been going down in the world of adventure. Updates may continue to be on the slow side for the next day or two, but things are progressing and improving.
One of the expeditions that I've been watching closely has been the winter climb of Denali in Alaska. Artur Testov and Christine Feret had been attempting that very difficult mountaineering feat, and when we last checked in with them, they were heading down to reassess their options. It turns out that the options were not so good, and so they decided to pack in the expedition and head home for another year.
The weather on Denali in the winter is fickle to say the least, and this is the second time that it has played havoc with Artur and Chritine's attempt to summit the mountain. Much like last time, the pair spent several days huddled in a snow cave waiting for an opportunity to move up, but once again that opportunity never came.
The challenge wasn't finished when they decided to end the expedition however, as the descent was a harrowing one, marred by very high winds, lots of snow, and cold temperatures. You can learn more about that part of their climb by listening to the audio dispatches that are available on the expedition's blog.
Standing 20,327 feet (6,196 meters), Denali is the tallest mountain in North America and due to the northerly latitude that it falls on, it is a challenge to climb at any time of the year, let alone in the winter. Fortunately, Artur and Christine made it down in one piece and without significant injury. Perhaps they'll be able to give it a go next year.
Friday, February 25, 2011
Denali Winter Ascent: Heading Down For Now
Earlier this week I mentioned an expedition that is currently underway on Denali, in which Artur Testov and Christine Feret are attempting to climb Denali in the winter. When last we checked in on the two climbers, they had been stuck in a snow cave for six days and were waiting for the weather to improve. Now, a few days later, the weather hasn't gotten all that much better, so they've elected to head down the mountain and wait for another opportunity.
According to their latest audio dispatches, Artur and Christine have descended to 11,000 feet (3352 meters) where they managed to find a snow cave they had previously built at that altitude. They've now taken shelter there and are hoping for another crack at the summit, but conditions are extremely bad and the weather is always unpredictable on Denali this time of year.
From the sounds of things, the descent wasn't much of a picnic, as Christine calls it a "hell day" in her dispatch, but she did say that as soon as they dropped below 11,000 feet, the wind stopped and it became an absolutely beautiful day on the mountain. That has encouraged them to sit tight for a bit and wait for their next opportunity, but it is also a bit disheartening to find conditions so calm down below, but know what kind of maelstrom awaits up towards the summit.
Climbing Denali in the winter is one of the biggest challenges in all of mountaineering. While the peak is "just" 20,327 feet in height, it is situated at a latitude that makes for very long, and cold winters. Most climbers take on this mountain in late-June and into July, and even then it can be a bit dicey. Artur has successfully climbed the mountain in winter however, and Christine has what it takes to make it to the top too. All they need is a little luck and a proper weather window to give it a go.
Stay tuned for updates.
Tuesday, February 22, 2011
Sherpa Climbs Seven Summits In 42 Days
Way back last March of last year I posted a story on Ang Chhiring Sherpa, who at the time was attempting to set a speed record for climbing the Seven Summits. Fast forward a year, and he has accomplished his goal and in highly impressive times.
According to this story, which is in French, (use Google Translate), A.C., as he has known, managed to knock off each of the seven summits in just 42 days of accumulated climbing. That's the amount of time he actually spent on the mountains itself, and not his his total time from start to finish of all of the mountains. The individual times for each of the peaks looks like this: Mount McKinley- 12 days; Kilimanjaro - 16 hours, 37 minutes round trip!); Elbrus - 8 hours, 14 minutes; Kosciusko - 2 hours, 32 minutes; Aconcagua - 7 days; Vinson - 4 days; and Everest - 19 days.
A.C. actually finished off his quest last may when he completed his climb of Everest, but I hadn't seen confirmation of his final time until this story was send my way by Louis-Philippe Lonke earlier today. While the news might be old, it is still a very impressive time and accomplishment that deserves a salute.
It should also be noted that A.C. wasn't making the climb just to achieve a record. He was also raising funds and awareness for the Himalayan Women & Children Foundation, an organization dedicated to helping to educate women and provide basic health care and other services for those living in the Himalayan mountains.
A worthy cause to say the least.
Denali Winter Ascent: In A Holding Pattern, Waiting For Weather To Improve
Climbers Artur Testov and Christine Feret have returned to Denali this year to challenge that formidable mountain in the winter. The duo made the attempt in 2010 as well, but were forced to turn back due to bad weather, and while it may be a new year, their old foe has returned to challenge them once again.
This expedition actually got underway back on February 1st, but due to my travels, it slipped off the radar a bit. But, there is still plenty to report, as both Artur and Christine have made good progress, despite the extremely cold temperatures and generally poor conditions. The two are currently huddled in a snow cave on the headwall while they wait out the high winds that are causing whiteouts on the mountain. They've been in that cave for four days already and yet they remain optimistic and confident in their approach to the climb. Temperatures are said to be hovering around -60ºF (-51ºC) so they'll also wait for warmer temps before moving up as well.
A winder descent of the 20,327 ft (6,196 m) Denali is one of the toughest challenges in all of mountaineering. The feat has only been accomplished a hand full of times, with weather usually being the biggest obstacle. Throughout the winter, the mountain is shrouded in darkness while high winds, heavy snow, and frigid temperatures punish anyone who attempts to claim the summit. The mountain is a challenge even in June and July, the prime climbing season, which makes a winter attempt all the more daring.
You can read more about the expedition on their official website, where you'll also find plenty of audio dispatches to help keep you informed of Artur and Christine's progress. Keep your fingers crossed that the weather clears and gives them a crack at the summit.
Friday, January 28, 2011
Denali In January: Heading Home!
For the past several weeks, we've all been following Lonnie Dupre has he attempted his solo climb of Denali in January. We all knew that the polar explorer was tough and could handle frigid conditions, but the task ahead of him was still a daunting one. He hoped to nab the first solo summit of the mountain during its coldest and darkest month. Today came news that the mountain had won, as he is now headed to Base Camp and eventual flight home.
Throughout the month of January, things seemed to be going well for Dupre. The weather was good and he was making steady progress up the 20,320 foot (6194 meter) tall mountain. But last weekend, conditions took a turn for the worse, with high winds and heavy snow hitting the region. Reportedly, Lonnie endured 100 mph winds and -60ºF temperatures while he waited for things to clear. After a few days in a snow cave however, he decided it was best to head back down and wait for a better opportunity. During our last update, on Wednesday, it appeared that that is exactly what he would do as he descended to 14,200 feet.
The updates to his blog today tell a different story however. It seems that he has decided that it isn't safe to climb the mountain any longer, and as the last few days of January slip away, it is best to head home. So, his support team says that he is in the process of moving down to Base Camp, located at about 7200 feet, where he'll wait for a plane to pick him up and take him to Talkeetna. Reportedly, conditions on the way back down have been on the treacherous side, which has made for slow going. But if all goes well, he should be able to catch a flight over the weekend and should be back in civilization soon.
Despite not grabbing the summit, this was an excellent expedition to follow. Lonnie did a great job under very difficult conditions and we're told that he is in good spirits but looking forward to a hot shower, a green salad, and a glass of red wine. Come to think of it, those are the same things I'm looking forward to as well.
Well done Lonnie!
Wednesday, January 26, 2011
Denali In January: Lonnie Retreats For Now
One of the bolder and more intriguing adventures that is currently underway is Lonnie Dupre's attempt to become the first person to solo summit Denali in January. We've been following his progress over the past couple of weeks, as he has made slow, but steady progress up the tallest mountain in North America. But yesterday he was forced to retreat back down the mountain, while he reevaluates his next move.
As I mentioned on Monday, Dupre was stuck in his snow cave, waiting for a nasty storm to pass. At the time, the forecasts were calling for winds in excess of 100 mph, with blowing snow and whiteout conditions making it impossible for Lonnie to move further up the mountain. So, he was stuck in a snow cave at 17,200 feet (5242 meters) while he waiting for things to clear. The weatherman predicted that that wouldn't happen for a few days yet.
Yesterday, Lonnie elected to turn back and head for lower altitudes. His home team reports that it took him 8 hours to descend back to his cave at 14,200 feet (4328 meters), where he is currently resting and deciding what his next move is. If the weather continues to be bad, there is a real possibility that he'll scrub the climb altogether, but if it improves, he can still make a quick climb back up to his established high camp, and have a go at the summit.
Of his biggest concern is that he is running out of days in January. Today is the 26th, which means he has just five more days to complete his expedition as he hoped for. That's plenty of time, provided conditions improve, but Dupre could easily lose days waiting for the skies to clear. And when they do clear, the upper portions of Denali may not be safe climb.
Reportedly Lonnie will reassess the situation today and decide on his options. Lets hope he at least gets a crack at the summit.
Monday, January 24, 2011
Denali In January: Ridin' The Storm Out
The weekend update from Lonnie Dupre is all about the weather. You may recall that climber and polar explorer is attempting the first solo summit of Denali in January the coldest and darkest month on already cold mountain. Last week, Dupre was making solid progress, but now he is at the hands of the very fickle weather gods, waiting out a storm that could be of epic proportions.
On Saturday, Dupre had reached 17,200 feet (5242 meters) on the mountain 20,320 foot (6194 meter) mountain, but inclement weather set in, giving him an unexpected rest day. At that point, winds were blowing at about 50-60 mph (80-96 km/h), which created whiteout conditions that forced him to stay at his current location. Climbing higher was out of the question, and the plan was to sit tight and wait for things to improve yesterday. Turns out, they didn't improve at all, and are in fact getting much worse.
The weather report for the next few days indicate that the winds are only going to increase in speed. They are expected to hit 100 mph (160 km/h) today, which is dangerous in and of itself, but the resulting whiteout conditions and dangerous temperatures, will make it impossible for Lonnie to move, up or down, for at least a couple of days. So, now he sits, and waits, very patiently in his snow cave, hoping that he'll at least get a crack at the summit.
As if that wasn't bad enough, in his latest audio update, Lonnie reports that his entire snow cave shook rather violently and unexpectedly while he was in his sleeping bag the night before. He wasn't sure exactly what happened, but he suspect that either a large crevasse opened up near by or an earthquake hit the region. It was enough to make him worry about his whole cave collapsing, burying him beneath the snow, but it passed quickly and all is well for now.
Dupre is in good spirits and is doing well physically as well. He says that his food, fuel, and other supplies are in good shape, although he is running low on battery life and will likely make fewer audio dispatches in the days ahead to conserve his sat phone's power. Other than that, for now, all he can do is hope for a weather window, which seems to be a few days off yet at least.
Wednesday, January 19, 2011
Denali In January: Weather Holds As Lonnie Moves Up
It has been a few days since we checked in on Lonnie Dupre, the climber and polar explorer who is hoping to make the first solo summit of Denali in January. During that time, Lonnie has been climbing higher on the mountain to drop supply caches and to build snow caves, in preparation for his final assault on the summit.
Yesterday was rest day for Dupre, and it seems like it was a good day to lay low. His home team says that the skies were clear, but that high winds made for extremely cold temperatures and blowing snow. The climber is currently at 14,200 feet, but plans to head further up today. His next milestone will be stopping at 15,500 feet to retrieve a cache and to catch his breath, before climbing to his next camp, located at 17,200 feet along the West Buttress ridge.
What happens next will be determined by the weather. The mountain stands 20,320 feet in height, but is subjected to some of the worst weather on the planet. Especially in January. If the weather holds, Dupre will challenge the more difficult sections of the mountain that are still ahead of him, and are no doubt covered in deep snow. The final stages of the climb will not be easy, with altitude, extreme cold, high winds, and technical challenges all conspiring against him.
Only 16 people have ever stood on top of Denali in winter, and just three of those have done it in January. A solo climb of the mountain during that month is a daring, but daunting, adventure. But Dupre has years of experience in polar climes and is use to the cold. If he doesn't make it to the top, it'll be for other reasons. He has 11 more days to reach the summit and make his January deadline. Barring any unforeseen circumstances, he seems like he is in a good position to do that, although the weather is unpredictable on the mountain, and you never know what obstacles may arise.
Wednesday, January 12, 2011
Denali In January: Lonnie Is Heading Up!
Before I left for a little winter fun in Montana last week, I posted a couple of updates on polar explorer and mountaineer Lonnie Dupre, who is attempting a solo assault on Denali in January, something that had never been accomplished before. When last I checked in on his progress, Lonnie was stuck in Talkeetna and waiting for a weather window just to get to BC. Since then however, the weather has cleared and he has started his climb.
In his last dispatch, Dupre was reportedly making good progress amidst decent weather, at least by Alaskan winter standards. High winds were an issue a few days back, but they seem to have quieted down and conditions are expected to improve even more as the week goes on. As of last night, he hoped to be as high as 11,200 feet (3413 meters) on the mountain. If he achieved that goal, he knocked off 2000 vertical feet in one day, which is a pretty impressive feat considering he's been battling 50mph head winds off the glacier.
As I mentioned before, Lonnie is making this climb without the use of a tent, and is instead building snow caves along the way to sever as his shelter. He reports that digging those caves has become more challenging as he moves up the mountain, as the snow has moved from the soft, powdery variety to the more icy, hard pack type. As a result, after spending a day climbing, he is also spending a couple of hours each night creating a cozy space to spend the evening. Still, with weather conditions improving, it seems that he is happy with the progress so far.
Standing 20,320 feet (6193 meters) in height, Denali is North America's tallest mountain. It has been scaled in January before, but only once. That was back in 1998 when a team of Russians managed to accomplish the impressive feat of topping out during the coldest, darkest month of the year. Dupre hopes to match that climb, and if the weather holds, it seems like he as a great shot of doing just that.
The hard part is yet to come however, so stay tuned for updates.
Tuesday, January 4, 2011
Update On Lonnie Dupre: Still Waiting On The Weather
Last week I posted a story about polar explorer and climber Lonnie Dupre, who had set out for Alaska where he hopes to make a solo summit of Denali in January, something that has never been done before. At the time, Lonnie was stuck in Talkeetna, waiting for the weather to clear so he could hop a flight to Base Camp. Fast forward a few days, and he's still there and still waiting.
According to the latest updates to his blog, Dupre is making the most of his time in town by preparing his gear and supplies for the climb ahead. He also notes that the weather is expected to improve as the week goes along, so he's hoping to arrive in BC over the next few days so he can start the climb at last. His original plan was to be on Denali by January 1st so that he would have the full month to complete the expedition. He's already lost a few precious days, but hopefully they won't matter in the long run.
Only 16 people have ever stood on the summit of Denali in winter, and of those, only one expedition, consisting of three Russian climbers, ever topped out in January. That was back in 1998. Lonnie has been in contact with that Russian team and will be using some of their valuable knowledge and experience to help him reach the top. For instance, he isn't taking a tent with him, but will instead dig snow caves along the way, which is exactly what the Russians did as well.
Hopefully the projected weather window will open as expected in the next few days and we'll start to get some actual dispatches from the climb itself. This is going to be a very tough task to complete, as the weather is extremely bad for most of the year on the mountain, but in January it is especially so.
I'll keep you posted on his progress.
Friday, December 31, 2010
Lonnie Dupre Set To Attempt Solo Climb Of Denali In January
Polar explorer and climber Lonnie Dupre has set off for Alaska, where he hope to make a solo climb of Denali in January. If successful, it'll be the first solo ascent of the mountain during it's coldest and darkest month ever.
Standing 20,320 ft (6193 meters) in height, Denali is the tallest mountain in North America. Generally it is climbed in June and July each year, but there are occasional attempts during other months of the year, including the winter. Over the years there have been nine successful winter expeditions on the mountain, putting 16 people on the summit. Only one of those was completed in January, when a team of three Russians topped out back in 1998. Winter expeditions have also led to six deaths on Denali as well.
Climbing in January means that the cold temps and howling winds will be at their fiercest, but that isn't a major concern for Dupre, who has made numerous arctic expeditions over the years. For example, he has circumnavigated Greenland by dogsled and kayak, made a 3000 mile crossing of the Northeast Passage, also by dogsled, and he has made the challenging journey to the North Pole alongside Eric Larsen.
Clearly the extreme cold and the dark won't deter him, although the weather just might. According to his latest blog post, Dupre is now in Talkeetna, where his flight out has been grounded due to a powerful weather front moving through. He hopes to be in base camp soon, and start the climb in earnest.
And what a climb he has planned. Going up solo, Dupre has left his tent at home and will instead seek shelter in ice caves that he'll dig along the way. That is the same tactic that the Russians used on their successful climb a dozen years ago, and he hopes it'll allow him to repeat their success.
Watch for more updates soon.
Friday, September 17, 2010
National Park Service Considers Raising Climbing Fees on Denali, Rainier
The National Park Service is considering raising the fees for climbing both Denali and Mt. Rainier, two of the most iconic, and popular, peaks in North America. These discussions have caused several climbing advocacy groups to speak out against the proposals, which would institute steep increases in costs for climbers.
The proposal would see the cost of climbing Rainer rise from $30 to $50, while Denali would go from $200 up to $500, an increase of 250%. The proposal says that the increase in costs will go directly to training more climbing rangers and other ways of keeping people safe on the mountain. It also hints that future price increases could be linked to the U.S. Consumer Price Index.
The Access Fund, American Alpine Club and American Alpine Guides Association call the rate increases "unnecessary and unfair" and joined forces to draft a letter to protest the move which they think will limit the ability of many climbers to actually scale those mountains. They also accuse officials of planning to put the fee hikes into effect without allowing the public to comment, something the Park Service denies.
The proposal would see the cost of climbing Rainer rise from $30 to $50, while Denali would go from $200 up to $500, an increase of 250%. The proposal says that the increase in costs will go directly to training more climbing rangers and other ways of keeping people safe on the mountain. It also hints that future price increases could be linked to the U.S. Consumer Price Index.
The Access Fund, American Alpine Club and American Alpine Guides Association call the rate increases "unnecessary and unfair" and joined forces to draft a letter to protest the move which they think will limit the ability of many climbers to actually scale those mountains. They also accuse officials of planning to put the fee hikes into effect without allowing the public to comment, something the Park Service denies.
While these fees are not a foregone conclusion at this point, it does look like they are most likely coming sooner than later. I'm a bit torn on my thoughts on these fee hikes. On the one hand, in the greater scheme of things, these aren't big jumps. A $20 increase for going up Rainier probably won't make or break it for most climbers, although $300 more on Denali is a bit of a hit. But considering the expense of that climb, and the challenges involved, it isn't likely to be a deal breaker for those mountaineers either. Also, the fees seem to be intended for a good use as well, as making the climbs safer is always a good plan.
On the other hand, fee increases in this economic climate seem like a bad move. Politically it sends a bad message, and when people are struggling to make ends meet, any rise in cost can be seen as bad.
So, what are your thoughts? Is this an acceptable move or bad timing?
Tuesday, July 13, 2010
50 Peaks, 50 States, 50 Days
A few weeks back I posted a story about a new Mountain Hardwear sponsored athlete by the name of Matt Moniz, who at the age of 12 has already summitted some big peaks, including Aconcagua, Kilimanjaro, and Elbrus. At the time of that story, he had also recently climbed Denali, Mt. Whitney, and Mt. Elbert, all in a span of just 8 days. It turns out, that was just part of his plan to climb the 50 highest points, in all 50 states, in just 50 days. Matt, and his father Mike, have been knocking off those high points in rapid succession, and now have a chance of setting a new record for completing that feat.
According to the 50-50-50 Climb website, the father and son climbing team have now finished 48 of the 50 states. The last update came yesterday, July 12th, at the 38th day of the trip. According to the Hardwear Sessions Blog, Mike and Matt are currently in Montana, where they are taking on Granite Peak, the tallest mountain in that state. If they summit successfully, they'll catch a flight in the next day or two for Hawaii, where they'll climb Mauna Kea, the final obstacle in their path. If the can manage to do that in less than 45 days, 19 hours, and 2 minutes, they'll break the 50 high points in 50 states record, currently held by Mike Haugen, who set the mark back in 2008.
Good luck guys!
According to the 50-50-50 Climb website, the father and son climbing team have now finished 48 of the 50 states. The last update came yesterday, July 12th, at the 38th day of the trip. According to the Hardwear Sessions Blog, Mike and Matt are currently in Montana, where they are taking on Granite Peak, the tallest mountain in that state. If they summit successfully, they'll catch a flight in the next day or two for Hawaii, where they'll climb Mauna Kea, the final obstacle in their path. If the can manage to do that in less than 45 days, 19 hours, and 2 minutes, they'll break the 50 high points in 50 states record, currently held by Mike Haugen, who set the mark back in 2008.
Good luck guys!
Tuesday, June 22, 2010
Another Young Mountaineer Climbs For A Cause
We've all marveled at the stories of Jordan Romero, who at the age of 13 became the youngest to summit Everest last month. Last week, Mountain Hardware introduced their newest, and youngest, sponsored athlete, in the form of 12-year old climber Matt Moniz. Even at that tender age, Matt has already managed to successfully summit Denali, Whitney, and Mt. Elbert, the tallest peak in the Rocky Mountains. Even more amazing, he did all three of those in just eight days! He has also been up Aconcagua, Kilimanjaro, and Elbrus, and made the trek to Everest Base Camp as well.
While Matt clearly loves to climb, and doesn't lack skills in that department either, he also is climbing for a cause. He hopes to raise funds for research on pulmonary arterial hypertension (PAH), high blood pressure in the arteries of the lungs. Matt's best friend, Iain Hess, suffers from PAH, and the young climber hoped to dedicate his expeditions toward helping his pal in any way that he could.
Last year in July, Matt set out to climb 14 of Colorado's 14ers in just 14 days, and in the process he raised $20,000 for his cause. It helped to establish the Iain Hess Breathe Easy Fund. Turns out, it only took Matt and his team, 8 days to bag those peaks.
This is a great example of a young adventurer who seems to love what he is doing, and has a good cause that he is trying to support. I loved this story when I read it, and thought it was worth sharing here too. Great story!
While Matt clearly loves to climb, and doesn't lack skills in that department either, he also is climbing for a cause. He hopes to raise funds for research on pulmonary arterial hypertension (PAH), high blood pressure in the arteries of the lungs. Matt's best friend, Iain Hess, suffers from PAH, and the young climber hoped to dedicate his expeditions toward helping his pal in any way that he could.
Last year in July, Matt set out to climb 14 of Colorado's 14ers in just 14 days, and in the process he raised $20,000 for his cause. It helped to establish the Iain Hess Breathe Easy Fund. Turns out, it only took Matt and his team, 8 days to bag those peaks.
This is a great example of a young adventurer who seems to love what he is doing, and has a good cause that he is trying to support. I loved this story when I read it, and thought it was worth sharing here too. Great story!
Monday, June 14, 2010
First Ascent Announces Be First Sponsorship Recipients: Round 2
Awhile back, gear manufacturer First Ascent announced the first round of recipients of their Be First sponsorship program, with some very worth candidates picking up cash to help fund their expeditions. Today, the company has added more names to that list by announcing the second round of winners as well.
There are five winners this time out, with some very diverse projects to follow in the weeks and months ahead. The recipients include the following, which I pulled directly from the First Ascent Blog:
Expedition 2 Endure
On June 28th, Larry McKurtis begins his solo ride from Alaska to Argentina, approximately 16,000 miles on bicycle, unsupported. Taking trails and side roads, he will be pushing the limits of his equipment and his own determination. For approximately nine months Larry will be hard at work on this amazing adventure, so make sure to keep checking in on his progress.
Winter Denali Ascent
Confined to a snow cave for 12 days by a blizzard during her last attempt, Christine Feret is making another push to be the first woman to summit Denali in the winter. With an extensive background on Denali, Christine and her climbing partner Artur are already underway on training. With their sights set on February 1st, 2011 we’ll be able to follow them through their training and into the big climb.
88bike’s VILLAGES
88bikes has a very simple goal: to provide a sustainable, joyful, empowering form of transportation to young people who have been challenged to be their own heroes due to poverty, war, disease, conflict and other regional hardships. Throughout the summer of 2010 they will be reaching out to rural parts of Lesotho, Mongolia, Tanzania, Latin America and the Navajo Nation to give away approximately 1,000 bikes.
Idaho Speed Traverse
Truly a multi-sport endeavor, Steve Graepel, Christopher Minson and Jason Quinn will attempt to pioneer a variation of the Idaho Centennial Trail during a 15-day South-to-North traverse of Idaho. With more than 840 miles to cover by foot, raft and bike, they will need to average 56 miles per day. We will be highlighting their training over the next year building toward the final push in 2011.
Ski Across Alaska for PTSD
Combining a great adventure with a great focus, Michael Ferrara brings attention to Post Traumatic Stress Disorder as it affects civilian ski patrollers, guides, firefighters, and many more who watch over the safety of others in the mountains and beyond. Joining him on this epic ski expedition are ski patroller Isabelle Day and avalanche search dog Lhotse.
Each of these sounds like quite the expedition, and I'm sure we'll be hearing more about them all in the future. The first to get underway is the Expedition to Endure, which kicks off in just a couple of weeks, with cyclist Larry McKurtis riding his bike from Deadhorse, Alaska all the way to Ushuaia, Argentina. A distance of 16,000 miles. (Yeah, but is he climbing Denali and Aconcagua in the process? ;))
If you'd like to apply for a Be First Sponsorship, click here to submit your next adventure. Then check out the video below for more information.
Thursday, February 25, 2010
First Female Winter Ascent On Denali Underway
According to ExWeb, the first attempt at a winter summit on Denali by a woman is currently underway, with climber Christine Feret and Artur Testov making the bid.
According to the expedition's blog, which is handled through Facebook, the duo was flown from Talkeetna to base camp at 7000 feet on Wednesday, where they've been busy setting up camp ever since. They have dug their first snow cave to serve as a shelter, and are busily preparing to begin their assault on the mountain.
ExWeb has the details on the climb, which will be a unique one to say the least. Christine and Artur estimate that it will take a minimum of 4 weeks to reach the summit, as they'll be climbing in an unusual fashion. The two mountaineers will be heading up the hill, dragging sleds with all of their gear on it behind them. It is estimated that when fully loaded, the sleds weigh more than 250 pounds. According to Christine, they'll hike each day as long as they can, then stop to dig a snow cave for shelter each night. They didn't even bother to bring tents with them on the trip. They did, however, pack a couple of steel shovels, and a ladder for crossing over, and escaping from, crevasses they may find along the way.
The weather on Denali can be quite treacherous at just about any time of the year, but especially so in the winter, when temperatures can drop to -40ºF and freak snow storms can batter the mountain. Standing 20,320 feet in height, it is the tallest mountain in North America, and due to its high latitude, it is pretty much cold there all year long. Thankfully, the climbers are familiar with the mountain, as Christine has already climbed it twice. She does hope to stand on the summit in the winter however, and if successful, she'll become the first woman to do so.
Good luck to her and Artur. Stay warm!
National Geographic Announces 2009 Adventurers of the Year
After three months of voting, during which more than 20,000 ballots were cast, National Geographic Adventure has announced their selection for the Adventurer of the Year, with a tie giving the award to two very deserving winners.
The winners of the award are explorer Albert Yu-Min Lin and soldier/climber Marc Hoffmeister. Lin earned his honors for leading an expedition to a remote part of Mongolia, where he has been searching for the missing tomb of Ghenghis Kahn, which was hidden by the Kahn's followers upon his death back in 1227. For his part, Hoffmeister was recognized for leading a team of Iraq war vets up the West Buttress Route of Denali. A number of those vets, including Hoffmeister himself, were injured in that conflict, with some even losing limbs.
Both of the winners expressed their gratitude for winning the award, but also were quick to note that they are just part of a much bigger team. Each of them also continues their adventures, with Lin continuing his search, while working to maintain the heritage of Mongolia, while Hoffmeister has gotten into whitewater rafting, adventure racing, and more climbing, summiting Kilimanjaro. To read Lin's reaction to wining, click here and for Hoffmeister's comments, click here.
The announcement of these awards continues the return to prominence of the Adventure Blog, which I recently noted had sprung back to life in recent days. It's nice to have it back, and it's nice to see the tradition of the Adventurer of the Year awards continuing.
Friday, January 22, 2010
The Costs of Climbing The Seven Summits
The Outpost, the official blog of Outdoorzy.com, has an interesting post up today that examines the costs of climbing the Seven Summits, the highest peaks on all seven continents.
The article looks at several broad categories and gives a good estimate of what each of them costs. For instance, they say that it'll set you back roughly $1170 for training to ensure you know what you're doing on those mountains, and another $9200 in airfare just to fly to the various countries that is home to one of these mountains. Throw in another $1500 for "incidentals", which covers such things as visas and passports, and things start to add up quickly.
Of course, the largest category is for the guide services necessary to climb the 7 (+1) mountains. The Outpost says that you can expect to pay between $105,850 - $169,900 on guides depending on who you choose to go with. They do note that this is an area that can be highly customized, and that's why there is such a large variance in the cost. Guide services are not all created equal, and sometimes you get what you pay for. Besides, do you really want to go cut-rate on this kind of trip?
The one category that I might disagree with their estimate on is gear, which they say will cost you $2000. In my opinion that is on the very low side, as I've seen down suits and thermal boots for Everest that will cost you that much alone. But I suppose, that this is, once again, an area that can really vary greatly, and you do indeed get what you pay for here as well.
So what's the bottom line? Outdoorzy says that the grand total of making a Seven Summits bid is about $119,720 - $183,870. That doesn't include the time you'll need to get off work, as most of us aren't sponsored climbers either.
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