Saturday, May 31, 2008

Ueli Steck Wins Coveted Eiger Award


The winner of the 2008 Eiger Award was announced last night in Grindelwald, Switzerland with Swiss Climber Ueli Steck taking home the honors. The award comes just months after Ueli set a new speed record on the mountain that the award is named for, beating his old record by 67 minutes, and just days after his dramatic rescue attempt of Iñaki Ochoa on Annapurna.

The typically humble Steck remained modest about his accomplishments, but did, for the first time, reveal some details on what happened while on Annapurna. If you are like me, and watched with baited breath and fingers crossed for news on Iñaki, then you'll want to read this article, as the rescue attempt was just as dramatic as you could imagine. In fact, Ueli says that he, and his climbing partner Simon Anthamatten didn't even have time to grab their usual climbing gear before setting off to help Iñaki and thus they found themselves at 6900 meters wearing their hiking boots and not their high alpine mountaineering footwear.

The article goes on to touch on a number of other items with Ueli as well, such as his speed record attempts, his relationship with Simon, and his long term plans for the future. For now though, he's going to take some much deserved rest and time to reflect on the past year. Congratulations Ueli! You are a very deserving winner of this award!

I'd like to thank Jo Adams for this excellent article and great photos, as well as taking the time to drop me a note to let me know about the event. Ueli has become one of my favorite personalities in the mountaineering world, and I have a feeling this won't be the last piece of hardware he picks up in the near future. He is a great example for all of us.

Friday, May 30, 2008

Primitive Tribe Remains "Uncontacted"


Here's a very interesting story from CNN that's been making the rounds today. It seems that even in the 21st Century not every corner of the globe has been reached.

In a very remote region of the Amazon rainforest in Brazil, researches have spotted a tribe of jungle dwellers who they claim have not had outside contact from modern man. They continue to live, much the way they have for centuries, using spears to hunt, sleeping in simple huts, and living off the land. Their way of life is increasingly threatened however thanks to continued logging in the region, and the shrinking Amazon.

The image attached to this post shows the tribe. Apparently when they were first spotted earlier in the day, the natives were not painted brightly, but when the plane returned later to take pictures, they had painted their skin in the bright colors you see there, which is a common tactic for Amazonian tribes when they feel threatened. Seeing a low flying, small plane pass over their village likely sent caused a bit of dismay amongst this primitive tribe.

I think stories like this one are still astounding in this day and age, but the CNN article notes that there are roughly 100 tribes that remained "uncontacted" around the globe. I never would have guessed that the number is that high. In this case, the Brazilian government is working hard to protect these people, as the introduction of a strange disease or other outside influence could have a devastating effect on the tribe.

While I'm completely against anyone going in and spoiling the party for these folks, I'd love to be part of a group that could observe them from a far. This is one of the most fascinating stories I've seen for some time, and it really gets the mind to thinking about all the remote areas on the planet we haven't visited yet, and what possibly could be in those places.

More Gear of the Year From Outside


Outside Magazine has posted more of their favorite gear on their website, giving us a complete rundown of the 2008 Gear of the Year winners.

This is their complete and comprehensive list covering most of the big gear items, like new bikes, both road and mountain. The Trek Madone 5.2 takes home top honors on the road, while the Ibis Mojo SL is the king off. Both bikes are a thing of beauty.

In other areas, their Top Mobile Device goes to the Nokia N95 superphone, which will be trumped soon by the N96. This sweet phone packs a 5 megapixel camera, with a Carl Zeiss lens no less, Wi-Fi, GPS, and video recording and playback. The price is a bit of a sticker shock though as it'll set you back $780. And people thought that the iPhone was expensive!

Other gear winners include the Nikon D3 taking home the honors as Top Camera and the North Face Primero 60 as the best Backpack.

There are plenty of other great gear items to check out for yourself as well. Of course, this list still suffers from the fact that it's gear that most of us can't afford. That Nikon D3, for instance, will set you back about $5000. While I applaud these gear lists, as they can't help but make you drool, it's always nice when they make a similar list for us regular folks who have a more modest salary. Still, as usual, the items that make the cut are great pieces of technology and will inspire your gear lust for sure.

Thursday, May 29, 2008

The Rest of Everest: Annapurna IV Debrief


While we aren't getting a regular episode of The Rest of Everest this week, we're still treated to an excellent show none the less. This week's episode is an audio only debrief from the Annapurna IV Team, who are literally just off the plane from Kathmandu when Jon puts a microphone in front of them.

You'll recall that the Annapuran IV Team consists of Ben Clark, Josh Butson, and Tim Clarke. The trio set off a few weeks back to climb the 24,688 foot Annapuran IV and then attempt the first ski descent of that mountain. If you've followed their progress through their own dispatches or my updates, you know that poor weather put a damper on those plans, and despite their best efforts, the summit eluded them.

All three members of the team weigh in with their thoughts on the trip, climbing in general, and conditions in the Himalaya. It's fascinating to hear them recall the events of their journey, and talk about their experiences on the mountain. The episode is essentially three good friends, four if you include Jon as well, talking about their adventure and having a good time.

Next week we'll be back to regular episodes of the show, and what Jon assures me is "Everest Porn" when it comes to his amazing video work. But for now, this is a great break from the regular format that offers some great insights into mountaineering. Really great stuff.

Everest 2008: Still Going!


Things aren't completely over on Everest, although nearly everyone has wrapped up their climb, and most are already back in Kathmandu or will be soon.

A few summit reports remain however, such as this one over at the Hardwear Sessions Blog where we get an excellent summit reprot from Team Marie Curie. The dispatch is written by team leader Kenton Cool, who gives a good account of their climb, and discusses how disappointed everyone was that Sir Randulph Fiennes was unable to continue up to the top. The team is back in Kathmandu already, but details of their experiences on the mountain are just now starting to creep out, although somethings remain cryptic. Kenton ends his dispatch with the following quote:

Emotions have run high for many reasons. Not least for a number of friends who have died this season. I'm happy that its all over now and I'm very much looking fwd to coming home and getting ready for the alpine season (which starts very soon!!).


ExWeb has posted a fresh update as well with news that the Brazilian Team has topped out, as has Mike Browder as part of the SummitClimb Team.

Finally, The Adventurist and Everest News are both reporting that while Browder may have reached the summit, there seems to have been some problems on his descent. Unconfirmed reports at this time have Mike suffering from snow blindness and having to be assisted down the mountain. He is reportedly back at the South Col not, but we're still waiting for a fresh update. I'll post more as we learn it.

The summits have slowed to a trickle and now the mountaineering world will turn to Denali and the Karakorum in the weeks ahead. Perhaps we'll have some brave souls attempt Fall/Winter summits on Everest, but likely we've seen the mountain shut down for the year, as teams will already begin planning for 2009.

Nepal Becomes A Republic!


Nepal made another sweeping change in it's government yesterday, as 240 years of monarchy has come to an end when a representative government voted overwhelming to abolish the King's rule of the tiny Himalayan nation.

When elections were held last month, the Maoist party, largely made up of former rebels, became the leading political force in the country. Upon taking power, they made it clear that their number one goal was to remove King Gyanendra from power. When the vote was held yesterday, the results were 597-4 in favor of ending the monarchy. The former King now has two weeks to vacate his palace, which will be converted into a museum.

There was joyous celebration in the streets of Nepal upon the news. Gyanendra was not popular amongst the common citizens, and his 2005 move to consolidate power by abolishing the sitting government only made matters worse. It was seen as a power play to set himself up as the single authority in the country, but just one year later, he was forced to make concessions to the Maoist to bring them to the table for peace talks.

It's unclear at this time as to what will become of the King. The Maoists and other members of the government are inviting him to stay in Nepal and live out his life as a private citizen, but seems likely that he'll leave the country and live in exile elsewhere.

Today is also cause for celebration for another reason as well. It is the 55th anniversary of Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay reaching the summit of Mount Everest for the first time. The citizens of Nepal are celebrating the climbing of more than one mountain today.

Conrad and Jennifer Anker on the Today Show

A few days back Conrad Anker, and his wife Jennifer Lowe-Anker, appeared on The Today Show to discuss her new book Forget Me Not: A Memoir. The video below is from that show, where they are interviewed by Ann Curry.

For those that don't know Conrad and Jennifer's story, this is a nice introduction, and of course the book goes into it much further. Conrad was best friends with Jennifer's husband Alex Lowe, and the two were climbing together on Shishapangma back in 1999, when an avalanche struck, killing Alex, and nearly taking Conrad as well. In the months that followed, Conrad and Jennifer helped each other to heal and in the process fell in love themselves.



Thanks to the National Geographic Adventure Blog for the video.

Wednesday, May 28, 2008

Gear Box: The Skullcandy Link Hydro Pack


A few weeks back I was sent a Link Hydro Pack from Skullcandy to put through it's paces and write my thoughts on. When the pack arrived I wasn't sure what to expect, as Skullcandy isn't exactly a household name in the outdoor industry let alone the mainstream as a whole. I did know that Skullcandy made headphones that get favorable reviews with the younger crowd, but knew almost nothing about their packs.

Now, regular readers know that I love my outdoor gear, and packs especially. So when I opened up the box that contained the Link Pack, I was pleasantly surprised at the quality of the item inside. The backpack was of higher quality than I had expected, with solid construction, and durable build quality. Furthermore, the pack came with a 1 liter hydration bladder and a built in pouch to carry it. Inside, the high quality is maintained with a well padded cargo area that is perfect for holding a laptop, along with a variety of other items. There are several smaller storage pouches on the pack as well allowing you plenty of room to carry your gear.

While so far I've mentioned that I've been impressed with the Link Pack, it's mostly because I had fairly low expectations. However, when comparing this to true outdoor packs, it really doesn't do much new or different, and the packs from the traditional outdoor companies, such as North Face or even REI are much better for true outdoor pursuits, such as climbing, hiking, or even mountain biking. In fact, the Link Pack's strengths are better served in the Urban Environments rather than the backcountry.

Skullcandy did give the Link Pack a few surprises though that really enhance it's position as a top urban daypack. Applying their expertise in headphones has allowed them to integrate a set of speakers directly into the straps, so you can jam to your tunes without even needing headphones. One of the storage pockets, conveniently marked with a music note, is where you can plug in your iPod, or any other mp3 player. Turning on the built in, battery powered amp, gets the tunes rockin'.

On top of that, if your iPod has a dock connector, and they all have for the past several generations, you can control the tunes with a series of cleverly designed buttons that are also integrated into one of the straps. Without having to take the pack off, you can turn your iPod on or off, skip tracks, pause, adjust volume, and so on. And if you prefer to use a set of headphones over the built in speakers, there is even a place for you to plug in your own set.

If that wasn't enough, another storage pocket, this one conveniently marked with a tiny phone icon, allows you to plug in your cell phone. When the phone is in place, you can pick up calls, and talk to friends over a built in mic. Their voices come through on the speakers or headphones. The system reportedly works with all phones, and Skullcandy has provided adapters for all the major cell manufacturers to aid in the process.

Make no mistake, the Link Pack is a pretty cool, high tech device. The iPod integration is excellent and I can see, in the right setting, where that can be really useful. However, the "right setting" for me is not on the trail. As much as I liked this pack, it had one problem that quickly turned me off. With that integrated set of speakers and powered amp, all the wiring for the cell phone and iPod, plus all the traditional stuff you'd find in a pack, this gets to be quite heavy. You don't really notice it when the pack is empty, but add a laptop, power supply, some snacks, and a book or two, and suddenly it starts to feel quite heavy. I never filled up the water bladder, and cant imagine how heavy the pack is when carrying around a liter of water. That doesn't even take into account if it's a good idea to carry a liter of water with all that other electronic stuff in the same pack.

All of that said, if you're looking for a really cool pack, with great iPod integration, than look no further than the Link Pack. It really is a high quality product, and perfect for kicking around town with, as long as you don't mind the extra weight. Just don't plan on taking this thing out on the trail. It's really not a product for backcountry set. For the same amount of money, about $140, you can buy a much better, and lighter, daypack.

Ecuadorian Whitewater!



CanoeKayak.com the official website for Canoe & KayaK magazine has recently launched their Staff Blogs page where they promise to bring regular updates from the field as the scour the globe looking for the best paddling experiences anywhere. (Hey! Someone has to do it! Excuse me while I go apply for a job at Canoe & Kayak!)

One of their first posts is about the incredible whitewater that can be found in Ecuador. The country gets nearly 500 inches of rain a year, which makes for plenty of water, and most of it moving fast. The article is written by Kate Stepan who spent a week exploring the paddling scene as part of a Small World Adventures trip that had a schedule that went like this: "eat, paddle, down a few 22-ounce Pilsners, sleep, repeat."

The article give some excellent details about Ecuador and it's burgeoning kayak scene. The country has become one of the hidden gems for international paddlers over the past decade and it's amazing array of rivers have something to offer everyone, no matter what their skill levels. In this case, Kate and her companions were in search of Class IV Whitewater, and it seems like they found it. The title of the article says it all: "6 Days, 6 Runs, One Good Time".

After reading this article all I can say is "Great! Another place to add to my 'must visit' list." Now I want to go paddling in Ecuador too. Sounds like a great time with plenty of opportunity for adventure.

Two Climbers Missing On Denali


As the Everest season winds down for the Spring, the focus for mountaineers shifts to Denali, where teams are already hard at work on the mountain. Sadly however, The Adventurist is reporting that two Japanese climbers have gone missing.

The article quotes a brief statement posted at ABC-of-Mountaineering.com in which a spokesperson for the Denali National Park and Preserve says that the two climbers, whose names were not given, were expected to report in Thursday, May 22nd, and are yet to be heard from.

The Alpinist has more information on the team and what they were doing on Denali. It seems a group of 5 Japanese climbers, part of the "Giri Giri Boys", were on the mountain to tackle a couple of new routes. Three of the men, Katsutaka Yokoyama, Yusuke Sato and Fumitaka Ichimura, managed to successfully link up two of the more challenging routes on the mountain, climbing up the Southwest Fork of the Ruth Glacier, onto the Isis Face, and then moving up the South Buttress. After a few more long days, including breaking trail at 20,000 feet, the three men reached the summit. However, their triumph was tempered by the fact that they saw no sign of their friends, who were suppose to be taking a different approach.

We won't know the names of the two missing climbers until their families can arrive in Alaska. I do send my thoughts and well wishes their way in this challenging time however. After being missing and overdue for a week, it's unlikely that we'll have a miracle here, and it has been a rough week or so in the mountaineering community.

50 States, 50 Summits, 50 Days!


TrailSpace.com has a very cool story today about a Colorado school teacher, who has announced his intention to reach the highest point in each of the 50 States over the course of 50 days or less.

Mike Haugen's will begin his quest by topping out on Denali first. The clock will start ticking as soon as he reaches the summit, and then he'll be off, looking to reach the summits of all the high points in the 49 remaining States. You'll be able to follow Haugen's progress at Coleman.com once he gets underway on June 9th. He intends to post images, videos, and blog updates about his journey, and what each of the highpoints is like for each State.

The 31 year old Everest summiteer is approaching his project with two goals in mind. First, he hopes to update the Highpoints display at the Bradford Washburn American Mountaineering Museum in Golden, CO to more accurately reflect each of these tallest points. But more importantly, he's hoping to encourage kids to get outside and get physically active as a means of combatting obesity in children. He's hoping he'll inspire some kids to go the highpoint of their state, where ever that may be.

Haugen and his sponsor Coleman are calling this the "50 States in 50 Days Challenge", and the website will launch with a number of activities for children to take part in. Being a school teacher himself, he's hoping that other teachers will find ways to add this project to their curriculum, encouraging their own students to get more active.

Good luck Mike! Looks like a great project!

Roz Savage Back On The Water!!


Last August, I posted about Roz Savage and her attempt to row solo across the Pacific Ocean. Unfortunately, just a couple of weeks into her attempt she was forced to abandon her adventure due to bad weather. At the time it was unclear if she would attempt the feat a second time.

A few months on dry land have been enough to convince her to give it another go however, as she got back underway on the 25th of May, sneaking out of San Francisco at a little past midnight. She's already started updating her blog of the voyage including a great post on a close encounter she had today with a group of dolphins.

If all goes according to plan, Roz will row across the Pacific in three stages. This summer she hopes to complete the first stage, rowing from San Francisco to Hawaii, a distance of roughly 2324 miles. Next year she'll go to work on Stage 2, rowing from Hawaii to Tuvalu, and finally in 2010 she'll complete the journey, with the third stage going from Tuvalu to Cairns, Australia. When she's finished, Roz will be the first woman to successfully row across the Pacific.

This time out, Roz will be calling in to Leo Laporte's TWiT podcast show with regular updates from the water. Leo has provided her with a sat phone for the voyage and filled an iPod with Audible books to help her pass the long hours at sea, something she has admitted to struggling with in the past.

I want to wish Roz good luck on her second attempt. We'll be following along and I'll make regular updates on her progress. A big thanks to Jon from The Rest of Everest for passing along the news on her departure.

Tuesday, May 27, 2008

Celebrity Chef To Climb Everest?


Both The Sun and The Mirror are reporting that Celebrity Chef Gordon Ramsay is planning on climbing Everest next year.

Best known in the U.S. as the host of Fox's Hell's Kitchen, back in his native U.K., Ramsay is an even bigger celebrity. He owns several restaurants there and appears on television even more frequently. However, Ramsay is also a bit of a fitness nut who enjoys running marathons and he hopes to compete in the Ironman Triathlon in Hawaii later this year as well.

The Chef has admitted that climbing Everest has been an ambition of his for some time, and if his business obligations and family allow him to pursue it, he plans on giving it a go. Ramsay joins other celebrity climbers such as Bono and David Beckham who are rumored to be climbing Kilimanjaro later this year for UNICEF.

One thing is for sure, should Ramsay elect to go for the climb in 2009, you can bet that his team will be the best fed on the mountain.

Video: First Ski Descent of Dhaulagiri!

The Wend Blog has posted this awesome ten minute long video on the first ski descent of Dhaulagiri. The video opens with some cool shots of life in Nepal, with a mix of great scenery and some video of the wonderful people that live there, but soon it shifts gears to the mountain and the action there.

Dhaula is the 7th tallest mountain in the world, and is located in the north central region of Nepal. It stands 8167m in height (26,795 feet). The video shows the challenges of the climb, along with plenty of snow. But reaching the top is just the beginning, as the descent by skis is quite a site as well.

Enjoy!

Everest 2008: Dark Clouds Over Everest?


Now that the mass rush for the summit is about over, and teams are turning their sites on home, we've begun to hear some stories about what it's been like on Everest this year, and what teams encountered on their climbs.

For instance, the Peak Freaks, who have been very diligent in updating their dispatches continue to do so even now, despite the fact that the team has left the mountain and is moving down the Khumbu Valley. The most recent update, posted two days ago by Scott Mortensen gives some insights into what it was like on Scott's summit day, including an encounter with a delirious Korean climber whose bottled oxygen had run out. Scott promises another update soon, but remarks that "There is so much to say about this year on Everest. There will be a whole new batch of controversy, blame, and negativity." He also notes that there were " also shining stars in the darkness". So, it seems, the stories of what has been going on up there have yet to really be told.

Similarly, James Balfour has updates his site with news of his successful summit on the 23rd of May. James was the third person to top out that day behind his guide and one of the Sherpas on his team. However, he ominously notes that "when I was back in Camp 4 (also known as the South Col) that we heard that two Koreans had died on the way up, and three others had perished on the day before." As of this writing, I'm only aware of one confirmed death on the mountain, so we'll have to wait to hear more on this as well.

On a good note however, the IMG Team reports that Dave Hahn has reached the summit for a record 10th time. This is the most summits by a non-Sherpa ever on Everest. Congrats Dave! His team is already back safely back in C2 after topping it out yesterday, and today is the final climbing day for IMG. You can read Dave's dispatches exclusively over at GreatOutdoors.com.

Finally, after turning back on Everest for the second time, Sir Ranulph Fiennes has vowed "No More Mountain". Sir Ran, who was climbing as part of the Everest Challenge Team to raise funds for the Marie Curie Cancer Care organization, turned back at 8400 meters due to exhaustion. He said that when he turned from Polar exploration to mountains he had two climbs in mind. Everest and the North Face of the Eiger. He conquered the Eiger last year, but his Everest aspirations have eluded him. No worries for Ran however, as he has another expedition planned in 2009. One that has absolutely nothing to do with mountains!

I've mentioned numerous times this year that I thought there would be plenty of stories to hear once communications were reestablished on the mountain, and even more so once the climbers got home. It looks like that prediction will prove to be true, as there seems to have been a lot more going on up there than what we've heard so far. The season may be drawing to a close quite rapidly at this point, but it may be weeks before we've closed the book on Everest 2008.

Monday, May 26, 2008

Brian Oestrike Summits Lhotse


For the past few months I've bee posting regularly on Brian Oestrike and his attempt to summit Lhotse. Today we have word that Brian has successfully topped out and is already back down to one of the low camps.

Brian has been climbing for Hypoxico Systems, one of his sponsors, and has been testing out one of their new high altitude training systems. He had hoped to summit without oxygen, but on his first attempt up the mountain, Brian turned back about 250 meters below the summit. He then returned to C3, where he spent a few days resting and recovering his strength, before electing to give it another go, this time using supplemental oxygen. It proved to be a good choice, as his summit to today would indicate.

With the climb over, Brian will go down the mountain and intends to be back in Namche by tomorrow. Congratulations to Brian and his support team for a job well done on Lhotse.

Everest 2008: 75 and 76 Year Olds Summit!


Regular reader Carl send me a link to this story from CNN that has details on Min Bahadur Sherchan, the 76 year old Sherpa who reached the summit of Everest yesterday, setting a new record in the process for the oldest person to ever do so. He is said to be in good health and had already descended when the article was published. Also of note, is that Sherchan was one of about a dozen summitteers yesterday following a very busy week on Everest.

MountEverest.net is also reporting on the 76 year old's summit, and also mentions that Yuichiro Miura, a Japanese climber, also reached the summit. Miura is 75 years and now claims the title as the oldest non-Sherpa to reach the top of the world. The photo attached to this article shows both men. Muira is on the right and Shercahn the left.

At this point, most of the climbers who have wanted to go up have gone up. There are a few teams still waiting for their opportunity, but now that the crowds have subsided, I expect we'll only see a few more summit reports, and the Everest 2008 season will be complete.

Saturday, May 24, 2008

Everest 2008: Sir Ran Turns Back


Just a quick update this morning from the Everest Challenge Team. They were making their summit bid earlier, but passed on word that Sir Ranulph Fiennes turned back due to exhaustion. No word as to which point on the mountain he turned back at, but the 64 year old British legend had climbed to Camp 4 where yesterday the reports said he was strong and feeling good. But, as many climbers before him have come to know, the upper portions of the mountain are where the true measure of exhaustion and lack of oxygen can come back to haunt you.

Sir Ran was climbing to raise funds and awareness for the Marie Curie Cancer Care Organization, a group that he has worked closely with for some time. I'm sure at this point he is feeling a bit disappointed, as this was his second attempt on the mountain, but his efforts were remarkable and showed once again his grit and determination in what ever adventure he undertakes.

I'm sure we'll hear more on the story over the next day or two. The latest reports have him back at the South Col, resting and in good health. He'll probably be back in Base Camp tomorrow where we'll probably hear from him directly.

Friday, May 23, 2008

Return To The Outdoors: Yvon Chouinard

A month or so back I posted about the Return To The Outdoors initiative that Timex Expedition and The Conservation Alliance were sponsoring. The idea is to get us all to "return to the outdoors" and reconnect with nature and outside activities.

When the site launched they hosted a couple of cool videos, one from Conrad Anker and the other from Steph Davis, with both of them sharing their thoughts on why they love the outdoors, what draws them into the backcountry and compels them to pursue the activities that they love so much. Now the Return To The Outdoors website has been updated with another video, this time from Yvon Chouinard, the founder of Patagonia outdoor gear and an active environmentalist. You can check out the video below in which Yvon talks about his love for the outdoors, the Art of Fly Fishing, and a lot more.

And don't forget that you can win gear for yourself by writing about or video taping, what inspires you to go outdoors. Click on this page to write your story or upload your video.

Appalachian Assault: Karl Meltzer Training For Speed Run on the AT!

A few weeks back I posted about Karl Meltzer, an endurance athlete who is preparing for an attempt at the speed record on the Appalachian Trail. He's scheduled to begin his "Appalachian Assault" on August 5th, but his preparation is well underway.

Updates to WheresKarl.com, the official site for this speed attempt, give us some insights into how he is preparing with about 11 weeks to go until he starts. Under the Latest News section we learn that Karl has been running quite a lot, as you might expect, and raced last week in the Jemez Mountain Trail 50 miler, where he took second place. Karl clocked in at 8 hours and 58 minutes for the event, with first place finisher Kyle Skaggs setting a course record and completing the event in 8 hours and 8 minutes.

He'll need those kinds of days on the AT however, as he is hoping to to complete the 2,174 mile trail in just 47 days. To do so he'll need to average more than 46 miles per day. He's preparing for the changes in elevation as well, as the Jemez lists 13,000 feet of climbing amongst it's many demands.

The recent updates to WheresKarl.com also include a new video of Karl going to work. Check it below.

Evereest 2008: More Summits and Death on the Mountain


Annapurna isn't the only mountain registering a death today. Word has come down that Swiss climber Uwe Gianni Goltz died on Everest two days ago of physical exhaustion. He had climbed high, but hadn't quite reached Camp 4 when he passed away. He was attempting to summit without supplemental oxygen. His death has been confirmed by his team as well. Once again, my sincere condolences to his friends and family.

Despite the sad news from the Himalaya today, the summits continue on the highest mountain on Earth. Everest News is reporting that the Indian Army expedition has put 20 climbers on top and the IMG Team reports that their third team has summitted and that Team 4 is now in place to do the same.

The Everest Challenge Team has posted a new update indicating that they are in the final hours before their final push to the summit. They're all in Camp 4 now, including Sir Ranulph Fiennes who is reportedly eating and drinking "loads" at C4 and is strong and ready to go up to the top. This is, of course, the team that is climbing to raise funds for the Marie Curie Fund which aids in cancer research and providing support for those afflicted by the disease.

Word from the mountain has been that their have been large crowds on the upper portions of Everest, near the Hillary Step and the South Summit. This has made for delays and has caused some to turn back. But the weather is holding out, and the window looks to remain open for the next few days, so I suspect that everyone will get a crack at the summit who is healthy and strong enough to go up.

Despite the death of the Swiss climber, it's been a relatively calm year on Everest. Lets hope it stays that way.

Annapurna Update: Iñaki Has Passed


Sad news this morning as ExWeb is reporting that Iñaki Ochoa has passed away on Annapurna. At the time of his death, Swiss climbers Ueli Steck and Simon Anthamatten were at his side, still fighting to keep him alive as they waited for assistance to arrive.

The news first came down a few days back that he had collapsed at Camp 4 after turning back just 100 meters below the summit. The Spanish climber had suffered some type of seizure, no doubt do to altitude sickness, and hovered on the edge of consciousness, unable to walk or talk.

The second rescue team was at least four hours away in Camp 3 and were battling exhaustion and fresh snow on the mountain. That team consisted of Serguey Bogomolov, Don Bowie and Denis Urubko. It is reported that they still intend to head up the mountain and perhaps they will try to bring Iñaki's body down.

I wish to express my sincerest condolences to Iñaki's friends and family. He was an amazing climber and an amazing man. The entire mountaineering community mourns with you today and you are in our thoughts and prayers. Rest in peace Iñaki.

Thursday, May 22, 2008

Everest 2008: Apa Sherpa Claims 18th Everest Summit!


It's been widely reported on ExWeb, The Adventurist, and even the AP, that climbing legend Apa Sherpa has reached the summit of Everest once again, making it the 18th time he has stood on top of the world's highest peak. Apa reached the summit at 5:45 AM local time this morning.

Apa continues to amaze. He seems to be one of the few constants on Everest, and topping out on the mountain 18 times is indeed an impressive accomplishment. ExWeb has speculated that he'll go for an even 20, but we'll have to wait and see. He had no plans to go up this year until he was asked to join the Eco Everest Team. We'll just have to wait to see if he gets a similar motivation in the years ahead.

Congratulations Apa!

First Ascent on Bat's Ear in Alaska


Climbing.com has all the info on the first ascent of Bat's Ear, quite possibly the tallest unclimbed peak in Alaska.

Ben Gilmore, Maxime Turgeon, and Freddie Wilkinson have the honor of being the first men to stand on top of the mountain. The three man attacked the South Face, which is nearly 3000 feet in height, in a single 23 hour push that saw them conquer the summit and return to base camp. The climbers rated the wall as a "maybe WI4+ M5+", which is not overly challenging in and of itself, but their axes lost their edge on the large amounts of frozen gravel and very thin ice.

Bat's Ear stands 11,044 feet in height and garnered it's unofficial name thanks to it's twin topped peak. The mountain is located between the upper Yentna and Lacuna glaciers near the southwest side of the Mt. Foraker massif, a remote region that sees little traffic.

While the description doesn't sound incredibly daunting, we have to keep in mind that it is still quite cold in Alaska, and that this was still a first ascent, meaning that the climbers didn't know for sure what to expect. 23 hours of climbing is not small feat either. Impressive job guys!

The Ten Deepest Caves In The World


Here's an amazing article from a site called EnvironmentalGraffiti.com. It lists the Ten Deepest Caves in the World, most of which I've never head of, and each which conjures up images of The Descent.

Spelunking is one of those activities that is both strangely compelling and yet equally unnerving at the same time. Clearly not for the claustrophobic amongst us. Or anyone who is afraid of the dark for that matter. But exploring these vast underground worlds holds a certain allure as well, as you never know what geological wonders the next chamber might hold.

All of the caves on this list include photos and a brief description of what these subterranean realms have in store for the would be explorer. To put things in perspective, the number 10 cave on the list, a place called Cehi 2, is located in Slovenia and is more than 4928 feet (1502m) deep. Of course, the depth only increases from there.

The top spot on the list? That's a cave system known as Krubera-Voronja Cave which is found in the Western Caucuses mountains, and stretches an astonishing 7188 feet (2191m) in depth so far. I say so far because an international team of explorers that plumbed the depths of the place back in August of 2007 say that it's very likely that it reaches even further down. I'm guessing that once you get to the bottom, you'll find a vast underground world where dinosaurs yet live. I can hope right?

Thanks to the Geared Up Blog for this one.

Hiking The Continental Divide Trail For A Cause!



Cookie and Paul from Made In England by Gentleman are two chaps after my own heart. First of all, they clearly have a sense of adventure about them, as they have embarked on the epic journey of hiking the entire length of the Continental Divide Trail, which in and of itself would earn them major kudos from me! Turns out though, that they also happen to be fans of this blog. Well, maybe calling them fans might be a bit much, but at least they have me in their blogroll, and for that I'm eternally grateful! :)

Back in 2000 Cookie and Paul decided that they were going to do the CDT in 2008 and now they have stuck by their word and embarked on their hike to raise funds and awareness for the Cystic Fibrosis Trust. You can sponsor their efforts right here.

The Continental Divide Trail is 3000 miles in length stretching from the Canadian border to the Mexican border in the Western United States and running right through some of the most beautiful sections of the Rocky Mountains that you could ever hope to see. The boys estimate it will take them about six months to complete and you can follow their progress on the Were are Cookie & Paul" page.

I love their reason for selecting the CDT and 2008 as the year they would do it. This says it all:

The reason we choose it was purely because it was the longest walk we could find any information on, the reason we picked 2008 was because we had no money and thought by now we’d have all our student debt paid off!


Seems perfectly logical to me!! Good luck guys! I'll be following your efforts.

Annapurna Update: Ueli in Camp 4 with Iñaki!


It's been tough waiting for updates on what is happening on Annapurna as Iñaki sits in Camp 4 waiting for help to arrive. Finally we have an update today, courtesy of Everest News who is reporting that Ueli Steck, and presumably Simon Anthamatten, have reached Camp 4 and are with Iñaki now.

The new broke a few days back that Iñaki turned back just 100 meters below the summit due to frostbite on his hands and because he, and his climbing partner Horia Colibasanu were running low on rope. Upon returning to C4 however, Iñaki suffered what is being described as an attack of some kind, and began vomiting, as he hovered on the edge of consciousness. Yesterday we learned that he was awake, but unable to walk and that rescue teams were en route.

Swiss climber Ueli Steck is amongst the strongest in the world, and just the kind of person you want helping with a high altitude rescue. The Everest News report says that he is administering medicine to Iñaki and that Horia has begun the descent to C3. He undoubtedly needs rest as well, and may be suffering some effects of altitude too.

No word yet on when they may attempt to bring Iñaki down, but I'll continue to ask you to keep your fingers crossed for all of them. Annapurna isn't the tallest of the 8000m peaks (it's the 10th highest actually), but it's a very treacherous mountain that is prone to avalanches. Certainly not the best place to attempt a high altitude rescue.

Update: MountEverest.net is now reporting that two other rescue teams are in the area. Besudes Ueli being at C4 with Iñaki, Russian Serguey Bogomolov is leading a team that includes Don Bowie and Denis Urubko, who are now in C1 after be dropped on the mountain by a helicopter.

These three men are racing to help despite their own issues. Serguey is battling his own severe frostbite, Denis hasn't slept since Iñaki got into trouble, and Don left the team of Iñaki and Horia over personality conflicts and differences. And yet they are all banding together despite all of this to lend what aid they can.

A third rescue team is gathering in Pokhara that includes a number of other strong climbers and some medial staff determined to help the Spanish climber who is reportedly eating and drinking, but unable to walk or talk at this point.

It's good to see such strong climbers gathering to help. If the weather holds and Annapurna is kind, they should be able to help Iñaki down. Fingers still crossed and prayers with them all.

Bono and Beckaham To Climb Kili?



U.K. tabloid The Sun is reporting that David Beckam and U2 frontman Bono are planning to climb Kilimanjaro. According to the story, Bono is hoping to raise money for UNICEF with his climb and decided to invite is pal "Becks" along for the trip.

Bono is well known for his charity work, especially in Africa, and Beckaham has been increasing his focus on charity as well. The two men, both amongst the most famous in the world, would be making a six day trek up the mountain, although no date has been set as of yet. The Sun reports that they could possibly be joined by goal keeper Robert Green who plays for West Ham United. No word on whether or not Posh Spice will join them as well.

This story was first brought to my attention by the blogs over at Backpacker.com.

Wednesday, May 21, 2008

The Rest of Everest: Episode 83


Our virtual tour of Tibet continues this week with a new episode of The Rest of Everest, which opens this week with some images of Everest and Kathmandu sent in my a avid fan of the show who was in Nepal recently, sporting a Rest of Everest T-Shirt.

This is Episode 83 and is entitled "In The Company of Giants". We're not 12 days into Jon and Scott's Himalayan Adventure, and at long last we lay our eyes on Everest, and what a sight it is to behold. The shots, even from a distance, are amazing.

Some of the other highlights this week are seeing the entrance to pass that leads to Everest where guards check passports before allowing anyone forward and a series of long and winding switchbacks that lead up to the higher mountain regions from the Tibetan Plateau.

But really it's Everest that is the star of the show, after all it's name is right there in the title of the show. And you can tell that Jon and Scott are happy to see the mountain at long last. The panning shots of Everest and the other Himalayan peaks, including Cho Oyu, are a feast for the eyes.

With Everest now in sight, you know that the episodes over the next few weeks will really pay off. Base Camp is not so far away now, and we should get some more great shots of the mountain and BC itself.

National Geographic Adventure Website Gets A Redesign


The website for National Geographic Adventure has undergone a drastic redesign and has relaunched today with a fresh new look. Working from the premise that "less is more", the new design is clean, easy to read, and does an excellent job of highlighting some of the sites more prominent features, such as the recently launched Adventure Blog.

Feature articles still receive their rightful place of honor right in the middle of the page, with a couple of excellent articles being added today such as this one on Best National Parks of 2008, or this one that takes a look at the recent Chinese crackdown on Everest.

The new layout is simple to navigate, doesn't overwhelm you with advertisements, and places links to past articles and resources within easy reach. The flash previews for the highlighted articles seems to load faster, and the colorful images and logos pop out of the basic white background in an eye catching fashion.

The redesign gets a big thumbs up for me. Looks great!

Everest 2008: Summit Day!


As you no doubt know by now, today was a busy day on Everest with a number of teams reaching the summit. Unfortunately, my "real" job took me out of town on arguably the biggest day of the year on the mountain, but a late update is better than no update at all, right?

Lets start with the Peak Freaks who posted a late dispatch of their own to let us know that six of their climbers reached the summit today, and most were back in C4 without incident. However, on the descent one of the climbers collapsed below the South Summit and was being roped down the mountain by several of the guides and Sherpas. At the time of the posting, they were confident that he would be fine and that everything would be alright. I'm sure we'll hear more on this story later.

ExWeb has posted one of their typically detailed updates with news on summits on Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu. They report that members of the Project Himalaya Team, as did members of the Cordoba Team, amongst others.

IMG has updated their dispatches with news that four of their team members summitted and have now returned to C4, while their second summit team is currently just below the South Summit, at 28,500 feet and will be moving up soon.

Finally, an update on Alan Arnette who it has been my privilege to follow this past year as he trained and prepared for his Road Back to Everest. Last night I received word from Alan's wife Cathy that he had turned back at the Balcony, overcome by exhaustion. I have no doubt that Alan gave his best effort on this climb, and that it was with great reluctance that he turned back. But Everest is no place to take chance, as he well knows, and it's more important to come back in one piece than to continue up to the summit. We're all glad that he is safe and will be returning home soon, and I couldn't be more proud of his efforts.

Annapurna Update: Rescue Attempt Underway!


Yesterday I posted that Iñaki Ochoa was having health issues on Annapurna after turning back 100 meters below the summit due to frostbite and not enough rope. Upon returning to Camp 4 with Horia however, he suffered a seizure of some kind, and has been stranded there since. The reports were that he was vomiting and nearly unconscious.

Today, ExWeb has updated us all on the situation with the news that two rescue teams are on their way up the mountain to assist in bringing Iñaki down.

A team of Swiss climbers have reached C3 and will proceed up the mountain as soon as they can, while a second team, lead by Russian Serguey Bogomolov is also on the way back to the mountain. Serguey had already returned to Kathmandu, but is rushing back to help despite suffering frostbite himself on Annapuran recently. The chopper carrying the team was delayed by bad weather. At this point, Iñaki is reportedly conscious, but unable to walk, so it will take the combined efforts of everyone involved to bring him down safely.

Meanwhile, Russian Alexey Bolotov has proceeded down to C3 as well. At this point it's not clear if he reached the summit by himself, nor what his condition is, as he has spent a great deal of time at altitude over the past few days as well.

I'll continue to post updates when they come in. Keep everyone involved in your thoughts and prayers until they are all down safe.

Tuesday, May 20, 2008

Everest 2008: The Summit Is Open For Business!


A brief update from ExWeb again today with the news that Project Himalaya team leader Jamie McGuinness has called in from a sat phone with the news that Sherpas have reached the summit!

According to the report, the Sherpas topped out at 3:25 PM local time. The two men who reached the top are Namgyal Sherpa, with the Project Himalaya team, and Pemgya Sherpa, with Arun Treks. This marks the first summits from the South Side this season and means that the ropes are fixed all the way to the top, meaning that that the other teams in position should now be ready to make their final assaults.

Project Himalaya is one of the teams reported to be in Camp 4, along with the Indian Army Team, the Nepalese Women's Team, and The Peak Freaks. Expect those teams to be the first to top out later tonight or first thing tomorrow. It won't be long now!

Blackwater Escape and Evasion Adventure Race Announced


An update at the Primal Quest website today announces an entirely new adventure race set for this fall. The event is called the Blackwater Escape and Evasion Adventure Race, and it promises to put a new spin on the existing formula of AR.

The race will be 24-hours in length and have teams of two tackling the usual round of adventure racing disciplines such as mountain biking, trail running, paddling, and so on. But as the name implies, there will be more to this race than just that. And since the even is being backed by Blackwater, yes that Blackwater, you know there will be some really unique elements to it. The race is scheduled for November 7th and 8th in Moyock, North Carolina.

The teaser press release promises more information will be fourth coming with a website going up in the near future, and more information on what teams can expect. Judging from the title however, I think you can gather what this race will involve. It definitely sounds like it'll be one to keep an eye on, and should be a lot of fun in November.

The Adventurist Finds A New Home


A few days ago Jason over at The Adventurist announced that he was joining the Skinny Moose Media Group as their latest blogger. He will continue to right the same content that he does now, but just at a new location, and with the backing of a full power of The Moose behind him.

For the time being, Jason will continue to cross post updates, but his new site is now open for business right here. You'll want to adjust your bookmarks and blogrolls accordingly.

Congrats on the move Jason. Good luck with the new chapter for The Adventurist and your relationship with Skinny Moose. Keep up the great work.

Annapurna Update: Trouble For Iñaki?


Yesterday I posted a Himalayan Update in which I said it was "Now or Never" on Annapurna. I reported that Spanish climber Iñaki Ochoa, along with Romanian Horia Colibasanu, and Russian Alexey Bolotov were making a summit push amidst cold and snow weather. This morning ExWeb has posted a newsflash saying that Iñaki could be in trouble on the mountain.

According to the report, the three men were approaching the summit and were within 100m of the top when Iñaki gave up his bid and turned back with severe frostbite on his hands. Horia turned back with him to assist him down to camp at 7400m, while Alexey continued upward. When they reached Camp 5, the Spaniard called home and said that they had run out of rope near the top and that he didn't want to risk damaging his hands further when they were already in a delicate state.

At the time of the call he seemed to be alright except for the frostbite, but apparently a half-hour later he suffered what ExWeb calls a stroke, and began to cough and vomit violently. The update says that he was left in a near unconscious state. As of the last update from his team, Iñaki and Horia were still in Camp 5. Horia has administered some medicine and was helping Iñaki to rest, but he was searching for someone to help them down the mountain.

The climbers are starting to run low on supplies. It is reported that their satellite phone batteries are running low and no doubt their stores of food and fuel are near an end as well. The question is, does anyone else remain on Annapurna's South Side to assist in a rescue? Ueli Steck and Simon Anthamatten were in base camp a few days ago, after abandoning their summit bid, but it is unclear at this time if they are still there or have begun the trek out.

Keep your fingers crossed that Horia and Alexey can work together to get Iñaki down. Annapurna is a treacherous enough mountain when everyone is health, and a rescue at 7400m, with the threats of avalanche, will be no small feat. Iñaki is a very experienced mountaineer having topped out on 12 of the 14 8000m peaks, but this is another example of how altitude sickness can hit anyone, and just how dangerous it can be.

I'll post updates as they become available.

Monday, May 19, 2008

Himalaya Update: Now or Never on Annapurna!


This morning I posted updates from the Everest teams, who continue to move into position on the mountain, and will begin making summit bids in the next day or two. The other big Himalayan peaks continue to see their action as well, with climbers on Lhotse following a similar schedule as their mates on Everest, and teams on Annapurna gearing up to go up or go home.

We'll start with an update from ExWeb with news from all around the region. They report that Spaniard Iñaki Ochoa, Romanian Horia Colibasanu, and Russian Alexey Bolotov all moved up to Camp 5 yesterday, fixing lines as they went. The weather window remains open at the moment, although they have seen cold mornings and snowy afternoons on their ascent. If all goes well, and the weather continues to cooperate, they should reach the summit later today or sometime tomorrow.

Meanwhile, Makalu has seen several successful summits with Joao García of Portugal topping out with out the use of supplemental oxygen, and not far behind him was a French team who also reached the summit. The reports are that it has been very cold and windy at the top, but as expected, the views were spectacular.

The latest news from Brian Oestrike is that he is moving into position on Lhotse and hopes to make his summit bid beginning on the 21st. Brian has been using acclimatization gear from his sponsor Hypoxico to help train for his climb, and he's looking to go solo, without oxygen, to the summit. The latest word is that he may go on oxygen at night while sleeping to help his circulation due to the very cold nights that have been hitting the area recently. Other than that, things are going according to plan, and Brian should be topping out around the 21st or so.

Spaniards Carlos Pauner and Javier Perez, who recently knocked off Dhaulagiri are making their bid for a Himalaya Double Header, and have arrived on Lhotse as well. Already well acclimatized, the two started up the mountain, but Javier turned back at C2, while Carlos continued up to C3. His current plan is to proceed to C4 tomorrow and summit on Wednesday. Husband and wife team of Ralf Dujmovits and Gerlinde Kaltenbruner hope to complete their own doubleheaders on Lhotse as well. Ralf already summitted Makalu and Gerlinde finished up Dhaulagiri. The pair of met in the Khumbu and will not proceed to BC to start their climb. If successful, Gerlinde will have just 2 8000m peaks left to become the first woman to summit all 14. Besides Lhotse, she's still missing Everest and K2.

Finally, last week I posted an update on the Annapuran IV team making the decision to go down the mountain rather than attempt a summit in poor weather. The team was besieged with bad weather since arriving in base camp, and a safe window never really opened for them to go up. Their most recent and possibly last dispatch, is a long and detailed account of their climb told in Ben Clark's well written style. Ben does a great job of really laying out his feeling about being on the mountain with his friends, and at times his words are almost poetic. Obviously the guys are a bit disappointed that they didn't stand on top, then ski back down as intended, but you can tell that the spirit of adventure is what drives them, and just being there and experiencing the mountain is fulfilling in it's own right.

That's all for now. I'm sure we'll have more updates in the next few days on these mountains as well. Annapurna should be interesting, and Lhotse is heating up literally right along side Everest.

All The Climbing Links You'll Ever Need!


Are you one of those people who never can get enough when it comes to reading the blogs of climbers? Well, fortunately for you, the guys over at The GoBlog shared a link with us to the Dream In Vertical Blog where one of the authors has posted his complete list of climbing blogs that have earned their way into his RSS reader.

In total there are 116 feeds that Luke, the author of the site, is keeping track of. He's even kind enough to post a link to his Google Reader so we don't have to set them all up for ourselves. My first thought is: "Damn, that's a lot of feeds!", followed quickly with: "Hey! Why aren't I on their?!?" ;)

Some of the blogs are from big name professional climbers, like Steph Davis or Dougald MacDonald, but there are also plenty of other great blogs as well covering not only climbing but other outdoor activities.

So, if your news reader of choice is feeling a bit neglected, dust it off, and at a few (or 30) of these, and start keeping track of how all those climbers with more free time than the rest of us are spending it.

Outside's Best Jobs of 2008


Outside Online has posted their 2008 list of Best Jobs in the outdoor/adventure industry. The categorize them as "Ten ascendant careers to free you from the cubicle".

Making this year's list are a couple of the usual suspects, like "Action-Sports Agent" and "Gear Designer". But there are a few interesting additions such as "Landscape Architect" and "Race Director". My favorite job on the list? Why "Itinerant Blogger" of course. I'm still figuring out how to make a living doing that one! ;)

Telling us what the top jobs are wasn't enough however, as we can all dream from afar. They also went out and asked several people how they got those dream jobs. They talk to an Underwater Archeologist, a Bike Builder, and more. Each of them share their story on who they got started in their respective businesses, and advice for us poor slobs suffering in the salt mines. My favorite of these dream jobs? That's easy too! Adventure Consultant! Sign me up for that gig as well!

Finally we get Outside's Ultimate Dram Job. The one that towers above all others. It's Adventure Filmmaker and probably doesn't need much more of an explanation than that. :)

Everest 2008: First Teams In Camp 3!


The weekend saw some updates from Everest, and reports have begun to trickle in this morning as well, with the news that teams on the mountain are beginning to move into position to make their final push for the summit. The weather appears to be holding steady, and the project first summits are set for tomorrow, the 20th of May.

Our friend Alan Arnette checked in this morning with an audio dispatch from Camp 3. Alan reports that everyone on his team is healthy and in good spirits. They are looking to top out on the 21st. They'll spend the rest of the day resting in C3 before heading up to C4 early tomorrow. They'll rest a few hours there, and begin their summit bid in the late hours of the 20th with a plan to reach the top early in the morning on the 21st. Good luck Alan!

Peak Freaks have also updated their Everest blog with the news that they reached C3 yesterday. By the time you read this, they are probably already in C4, resting, and preparing for their summit bid starting tonight. (Local time of course.) If everything goes according to plan, we should have news of their summit later tonight or first thing in the morning. They are expecting to share the summit with a couple of other teams including the Indian Army Team, The Nepalese Women, and the Project Himalaya Team.

The latest dispatches from International Mountain Guides tells much the same story. Their team is broken into two, with the stronger climbers moving into C3 already, and the bulk of the team in C2. They look to put their first climbers on top starting on the 21st, with the rest of the team following suit on the 22nd.

Finally, the Everest Challenge Team, who are climbing to raise fund and awareness for the Marie Curie Foundation, have begun their summit bid today. They should be moving up to C2 with an eye on summitting near the end of the week. Their latest dispatch has a great video from their acclimatization climb to C3 last week, and the reports are that Sir Ran is doing great, is climbing strong, and seems poised to claim his first Everest summit.

Hang on tight folks. Looks like it's going to be a very busy week on Everest!

Friday, May 16, 2008

Himalaya Update: Rescue on Makalu!


ExWeb posted an update on Santiago Quintero, who earlier this week was reportedly suffering from altitude sickness and was stranded at Camp 3 on Makalu. Today Santiago was assisted down the mountain by a group of Sherpas and climbers, and is now resting in base camp.

Last Sunday the Ecuadorian climber reached the summit of Makalu without bottled oxygen. His ascent was quite rapid, as he arrived in Camp 3 at 6:30PM the night before, rested for four hours, then set off for the 12 hour climb to the summit. He arrived two hours ahead of the cut off time and spent some time at the summit. After that he began to experience the effects of HACE and had to be helped down the mountain to high camp by Ralf Dujmovits. He remained in Camp 3 for the past few days, where he received aid from other climbers, but it wasn't until today that an organized team was able to go up and help him down the mountain.

This isn't the first rough experience that Santiago has had in the mountains. Back in 2002 he contracted frostbite while on a solo climb of Aconcagua, and lost many of his toes. ExWeb notes that if he recovers fine from this episode on Makalu, he intends to go after K2 next year.

From the sound of things, everything is good now, and he should be begin to recover quite nicely now that he is back at lower altitudes. I'm glad to hear that he's down safe and sound and hopefully he'll recover fully soon so he can begin planning his K2 expedition. Get well Santiago!

Annapurna IV Expedition Update: It's Over!


The latest dispatch from the Annapurna IV Team indicates that their attempt to summit, and then make the first ski descent of the mountain, is over. Poor weather and plenty of snow made the decision easy for Josh and Ben, who were camped at 20,000 feet, and have been poised to make the final push today.

The original plan was for Ben Clark, Josh Butson, and Tim Clarke to summit the 24,680 foot Himalayan peak, and then ski it's North ridge back down, some 9000 feet of near vertical wonderland. Tim took ill a few days back and was forced to go back down the mountain to base camp, but Ben and Josh tried to give it another go. Unfortunately the weather didn't cooperate. The area has been plagued with storms since their arrival in a soggy BC several weeks back, and the snow has continued to fly pretty much ever since.

The men turn back a bit let down, but still very happy for the time they spent on the mountain together. They enjoyed the technical challenge of the climb, and still got to ski plenty of the mountain as well. The dispatches, written by Ben, generally showed that they were in good spirits, and that they had a sense of wonder and excitement about the place they were visiting. That's not always the case in these kinds of expeditions, and it was always fun to read Ben's upbeat words.

Thankfully they're coming home safe and healthy. Sure they didn't bag the summit, but sometimes it's more about the journey rather than the destination. They seem quite content with their efforts, and happy for their time together. In the end, can you ask for anything more?

Everest 2008: Alan Arnette Begins Summit Bid!


Alan Arnette has posted his latest dispatch today, with the news that he hopes to begin his summit bid tomorrow, May 17th.

The schedule for Alan, and there rest of the Mountain Professionals Team, looks like this. Tomorrow they'll climb to C2, and on Sunday they''ll spend the day resting there. On Monday, the 19th, the team will move to C3 and on Tuesday they'll go up to C4 at the South Col. Once there, they'll start on supplemental oxygen, and spend the majority of the day resting, eating, and re-hydrating, as the prepare for the final push to the top. About 9 PM that night, they'll begin the ascent.

For Alan, this brings into a focus a full year of climbing. It was about this time last year that he first announced that he would be returning to Everest in an attempt to summit for a cause. And he's spent much of the past year raising funds, and awareness for the Cure Alzheimer's Fund. At the time when he announced his return, Alan shared his plan with a few of us, and I was privileged to be included in that group. Since then, I've followed him as he went to Denali, Shisha Pangma, Aconcagua, and Orizaba in preparation for Everest. It's been my pleasure to get to know Alan better and share in his journey on the Road Back to Everest, and I can't wait to see him stand on top at long last. I know how hard he has worked, and I know how much this means to him on many different levels.

Climb safe Alan, and don't forget to look up from time to time, and take in the view on the way up.

Thursday, May 15, 2008

Jake Norton and Conrad Anker Take Us Up Everest!


I've posted links to Jake Norton's MountainWorld Blog on numerous occasions, as Jake, who is a mountain guide and has been on Everest a number of times, always posts thoughtful and well written blog posts on many of the topics I like to cover. He's also an excellent photographer, and I appreciate his ability to capture magnificent shots from some amazing locations. It seems Jake has gone and outdone himself again, as he has posted a great video on his site that takes us up the North Side of Everest, using his amazing photos. As if that wasn't enough, the narrator for our little virtual journey is none other than Conrad Anker.

Apparently the video was put together in conjunction with NPR and their show The World which is amongst my favorite programs. They were doing a piece on Everest, no doubt for coverage of the Olympic Torch, and asked Conrad to lend his voice, and Conrad suggested they use images from Jake.

The results can be seen and heard here, and speak for themselves. Really amazing stuff.

Ten Uncrowded National Parks


Forbes Traveler is back again today with another great list for those of us planning an adventure getaway soon. This time it's their 10 Uncrowded National Park Gems.

As the name implies, every one of the places on the list is a U.S. National Park, and they make the list because they are amongst the least visited of all the parks. A place like Yellowstone, perhaps the most iconic of National Parks in the United States, gets over 3.1 million visitors each year, and the traffic jams can be legendary. That won't be the case with these ten parks however, as you're likely to have the place mostly to yourself.

Amongst the places on the list are Siuslaw National Forest in Oregon, which offers hikers the chance to wander from the Oregon Dunes to the hilly forests of hemlock with fir and spruce trees. Looking for something a bit more challenging? Then check out Black Canyon at the Gunnison National Monument in Colorado. The canyon was carved by the Gunnison River, which drops at a rate of 95 feet per mile, offering up amazing white water, while the rock walls beacon to climbers. Heading to Alaska but want an alternative to Denali National Park? Then check out Aniakchak National Monument and Preserve. The highlight of the trip will be a six mile wide collapsed cinder cone left over from the volcanic activity that war prevalent here 3500 years ago. Best way to get their? By float plane that will land on nearby Surprise Lake.

There are some great suggestions on the list, and most regions of the U.S. are represented with something that is within a day or two driving distance. One other suggestion I'd add to the list would be Big Bend National Park, located here in Texas. It's huge with more than 800,000 acres of remote backcountry, and seldom visited except for a few peak times throughout the year. Chances are, you'll find a lot of seclusion in Big Bend.

Summit The Highest Peak In Your State For A Cause!


I caught this story over at Trailspace today and thought it was a good event for a good cause.

It seems that the American Foundation for Children with AIDS is organizing an event called Climb Up So Kids Can Grow Up in which we are all encouraged to climb the highest peak in one of the 50 United States to raise funds and awareness for children who have AIDS.

In the Summer Summit Challenge, participants will be asked to raise $115 in sponsor money as an individual, or $5000 as a team, and then attempt their "summit" between June 27th and July 6th of this year. The money raised will be used to purchase medical and supplies for kids living in Africa who are afflicted with the HIV virus.

If you would like to join in, just go to this age and sign up. Before hand, you may want to have a look at this page however as it lists the tallest peak in all 50 states. You might want to know what you're getting yourself into ahead of time. ;) For instance, in Alaska you'll be facing the fearsome Denali, which stands 20,320 feet in height and is a challenging mountaineering climb. On the other hand, if you live in Illinois, you'll be topping out on Charles Mound at just 1235 feet. Does a place with "mound" in the title really have a summit? Maybe those climbers should have to go up twice or something.

Anyway, it's for a great cause, and obviously there are challenges here for all skill levels. Back in my home state of Iowa, I'd be facing the 1670 foot Hawkeye Point, but here in Texas it's the slightly more daunting Guadalupe Peak at 8749 feet. Hmm... maybe I should schedule a trip home that weekend.